What cherokee do I buy?

Been wanting one and wife is claiming it as hers as soon as I buy it, so I need help deciding what to buy.

I am looking primarily for reliability and good design. I am starting my Jeep search for the following
-a Sport model 91 or newer
-4.0L 6cyl.?
-need auto tranny (wife can't run the stick) which is the best one?
-4x4 with Dana 44 axles? Surgrip available?

I don't now which year model to look for, but amthinking a 97-98 will have lower miles. Are these good year models?

I figured the exhaust manifold cracking and engine running hot are just common with the 4.0L

Please through out any other idiocycricies that I need to look out for.

Thanks,
Onenite

Well, the transmission is easy, since all 4.0's have the same automatic box (Aisin Warner AW-4) and it's generally acknowledged to be highly reliable.

Owing to the variety of options, don't necessarily limit your search to a Sport model, though there's nothing at all wrong with a Sport if you find one. Some base models will have almost as many options as a basic Sport, and you might find a higher-level model that you like too.

I don't think you'll find anything with Dana 44 axles, though. They appeared only briefly in 87 and maybe 88 on some heavy-duty versions. After 91 you'll be getting either a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear, and a Dana 30 in front.

My line of thinking - with what I know at the moment...

If you think it might get lifted, go 96 or earlier. The 97+ have a longer output shaft housing on the transfer case which makes an SYE kit nearly mandatory for a lift.

From 1987-up, the same auto transmission went behind the 4.0 - the AW4. It's a Toyota basic design, and is pretty close to rock solid. I've got two that I've subjected to a great deal of abuse with good results. Keep the fluid changed, and you should be okeh.

The electronic control system changed in 1991 from Bendix-made to Chrysler. 1987-1990 XJ's are "pre OBD," which means that the onboard computer isn't too picky about mods. Problem - no aftermarket support if you are smog-controlled. Advantage - I've got 250Kmiles on original electronics. I'd like to see the "Big 3" do that!

The 4.0 is cast from essentially the same alloy used for the old Hemi blocks in the 1960's and 1970's - I've blown a hole in the side of my 87 and still put another 50K on it. I'd probably still be running it if I'd bothered to re-ring when I had it apart, but I was in a hurry...

Exhaust cracking is pretty common with nearly any inline 6, as I recall. Solution - replace when it happens. I like Borla, and I've been hearing good things about Gale Banks on other engines (and Banks made its name in Diesels, so there's gotta be SOMETHING to it!)

1997+ are OBD-II compliant, which gives the computer more control and less flexibility. I just don't like giving a computer that much control, but that's a personal issue.

D44 is only on HD towing packages. They are fairly rare, and I don't remember when they stopped putting them in. The D30/35 combo is pretty good with OEM engine and tyres up to 31", and one can find D44/Ford 9" fairly readily. The LSD rear axle is even rarer, but there are aftermarked traction devices that can be installed in a couple hours without having to re-do the axle setup, or a new axle can have one installed while you are having it redone.

I'm sure you'll hear more on this tonite - but my newest XJ is an 89 with 180K, and runs like an ape.

5-90

Okay..here goes..

The 4.0 litre is a great engine, don't even bother with the other! The auto is an AW4 and lasts as long as the engine (roughly forever)
As for 4x4, there's two flavors, the NP231 and the NP242, the 242 has the "Full Time" option to use 4x4 on paved surfaces, the 231 does not.

Axles: Unless you're not in the US you won't be finding any Dana 44's, the stock axles on US models '91 and up are Dana 30 up front (All) and out back either a Dana 35-c (C-Clilp) or a Chrysler 8.25 out back. One warning though, aprently in 2001 they put a Low Pinion front axle in, that's best to be avoided as it's not as handy on the rocks.

Oh, and the factory TracLock (Limited Slip) is quite lovely and available in all. You see a lot of people saying it never lasts, but that's not always true, my '89 has 198k on it and it's TracLoc still works like a dream!

Sequoia

Do you have kids -- or plan to?

'91 was the year Chrysler changed over to a Mopar computer and injection, so anything '91 and newer will be considered an "HO." The only automatic used behind the 4.0L was the AW-4, which happens to be a very good transmission, so you have no worries there.

You do have two choices on transfer case. The NP231 is what Jeep called "Command-Trac." This one offers 2WD-Hi, 4WD-Hi, Neutral, and 4WD-Low. Both 4WD positions lock the front and rear driveshafts, so 4WD can only be used off-road or in really slippery conditions on pavement.

The NP242 is what Jeep called "Selec-Trac." It offers all the positions the 231 offers, PLUS a "full-time" 4WD-Hi position. This position uses a differential in the transfer case so the front and rear drive shafts are not locked together. This allows you (or your wife) to put the t-case in 4WD full-time and forget it. If you live in a winter climate, she can put it there and forget about it until Spring.

Other considerations: My '88 does not have kiddie locks on the rear doors, or rear shoulder belts. The rear belts came in in either '89 or '90 so you're okay there. I don't know what year they started offereing kiddie locks on the rear doors.

In '95 and '96 there was an air bag on the driver's side only. No air bag before than. Dual front air bags were introduced in '97.

Starting with pretty much a clean slate and knowing it was going to be primarily the wife's vehicle, I'd suggest you look for a '97 or newer. Won't cost much more than a '95 or '96 but you get the newer interior and the dual air bags. Anything '96 and newer will also be OBD-II compliant, which makes trouble-shooting a lot easier.

Forget Dana 44 axles. ALL XJ front axles were Dana 30s. The Dana 44 was offered in '87 and '88 with tow packages, and not since then. Trac-Lok (limited slip in the rear) was an option but was not standard on any model, so you'll have to do some research to determine if any one you look at has it. If not, don't let it be a deal breaker. Trac-Lok units are available for all the XJ rear axles and aren't that expensive.

I sure like my 99 sport. It was the last year to have the high pinion d-30 front axel and the first to have the new intake manifold. I found mine last August coming off lease with only 27k on it, it still had the new smell. It was also the last year to have a standard ignition system in it. You should be able to pick up a nice one for less than 9k with fairly low miledge. I did have to put a slip oke eliminator kit on after lifting 3 inches but it only adds to the durability and strength of the drive system. Go for a 99, it has the best of all the earlier years and there are still lots of them around for a good price.

never had that happen or heard of it happing.
A 97 or 98 will have a chrysler 8.25 rear end with 29 spline axles. Its a good axle that will work up to about 33's. All the auto trannys are the same and not to much else is different. Also be aware of the different transfer cases the np231 or the np242. The 231 is only a part time transfer case. the 242 is a full time case. the 231 can not be used on dry pavement or things break, so if you live in a snowy climate look for a 242. Hope that helps!

Avoid 4 banger

If I were to buy a newer XJ I would avoid the 4 cyl. I have one and am always trying to find ways to get MORE POWER! As far as trail riding it does fine in 4 wheel low and I keep up with the big boys but getting there is a pain in the rear. I was doing 30 mph going over Vail Pass with both of us pedaling as hard as we could (plus two squirrels and a hamster). Thank goodness the 2.5l has pretty good low end torque or I would have swapped it out already. On the plus side it has been a great tool to teach my son about engines as we have rebuilt it completely adding tbi, a performance cam and headers and we have had a blast running the trails on it. Also we love to tinker. For a family car though stick with the 4.0l.

5-90 said:

My line of thinking - with what I know at the moment...

The electronic control system changed in 1991 from Bendix-made to Chrysler. 1987-1990 XJ's are "pre OBD," which means that the onboard computer isn't too picky about mods. Problem - no aftermarket support if you are smog-controlled. Advantage - I've got 250Kmiles on original electronics. I'd like to see the "Big 3" do that!

5-90

Click to expand...

Well, I haven't gotten up that far just yet, but I'm at 201K and climbing for 202K in my '92 on the original Chrysler electronics - does that count?

Also, my '92 does have the child-proof locks on the rear doors, although it's not necessarily the first year to have them.

I think I have to agree with Eagle - if it's to be the wife's ride, a newer model is probably your best bet. I'm not trying to say that the older ones aren't reliable (quite the contrary!), but if you get something newer, it will make dealer support (and some 3rd-party garages) easier to come by.

Case in point: I developed a PCV gasket oil leak (about a quart every couple of days) on my 1984 Omni back in january of 1993. Took it to a local garage, the guy there sang me a story about a possibly cracked block, and that it was "so old he was afraid to poke around for fear of breaking something." I was devastated - I'd had the car less than a year (my first ride - I was in high school). I took it to another shop, and they found the leaking gasket and fixed.

Ten years later, I still have the old girl (only drive it occasionally, tho - just kinda attached to it) - now if the current mechanic can get the damn thing to pass emissions (the Holley carbs they used on the 2.2l engine is a real PITA), NJ should let me keep it for two more years.

Rob

this shoud lite a fire. i think the 97 and up look better because of the head and tail lites are smoother. for the wife the newer the better. if in a winter wonderland the np242 is better also look for one with heated mirrors around y2k. try to get the best one you can the 1st time.

2offroad said:

this shoud lite a fire. i think the 97 and up look better because of the head and tail lites are smoother. for the wife the newer the better. if in a winter wonderland the np242 is better also look for one with heated mirrors around y2k. try to get the best one you can the 1st time.

Click to expand...

Without weighing in on the style issue, it's a good point here, that the 97-up have a newer look, so if it makes a difference, you should keep that in mind.

Though I like the older, squarer look, and am essentially indifferent to style and the appearance of age (I mean, my regular beater is a puke-yellow '78 Mercedes), others might, and as the years go by, one does notice that the older style Cherokees do actually look older than the newer ones.

I happen to like both looks. As to reliability, my original '88 now has a bit more than 235,000 miles on it and the valve cover has never been off. Reliability is not an issue with the older ones.

I suggested the newer ones ('97+) as a family daily driver primarily because of the better on-board diagnostics, and especially because it has dual air bags.

Thanks for the adive, I am trying to keep from buying one without at least knowing what to avoid.
My wife "squirrel" (She calls me "squirrel bait"!) will be driving the vehicle mostly, and I want 4wd and we live in north Texas. I only seen snow on my TV when the antenna is disturbed!

I may lift it enough to get good "trail rut" clearance tires, but don't want to sacrifice driveability, won't be rock crawlin'. What do ya'll suggest here?

I guess either transfer box is ok but the 242 sounds convienent. Since is has extra parts do ya'll consider it less reliable than the 231. Some options are nice but if it affects the longterm survivability of the go gear I don't want it.

What can you do with the older electronics that you can't do with the 97+ stuff? I won't be getting very far from oem engine parts unless they boost reliability.

Apparently, I don't have much choice in axles. What is the "high" pinnion axle? Is it actual placement or is it the number of teeth? Is that what i need to stick with. With a small lift and streetable offroad tires will I be putting to much stress on the D30/35 front or 8 1/4 rear?

We are planning for kids in the next two years so rear shoulder belts is good. Child locks are not a nessecity, I learned the hard way as a kid and my kids can learn the same if they are hardheaded. The air bags we can take or leave. If the airbag discharges will it send a signal to the computer that keeps the truck from running? Don't want that!

Lastly, thanks for reading this far, I have heard may problems with overhearting due to a mickymouse cooling system. What do I need to do to make the engine run cool? Are some years better than others? It gets oughly hot down here and the AC runs full time from mid april to mid october. I already plan on installing an Tranny and engine oil cooler along with under hood accessable filters prior to the coolers. Any suggestions on brand?

Again, thanks for the outstanding advice!
Onenite

You mention that you woul prefer a sport model, my understanding is that the sport only comes in one flavor of tranny and thats standard.

With pre 91, they have a closed cooling system which makes them prone to over heating. Not sure about newer years.