longer pitman arm for dana44 front?

fatwreck · Aug 10, 2004

I'm not getting lock to lock out of my steering. The only thing limiting it, from what I can tell, is the steering box.

A longer pitman arm would give me a longer throw, but it's my understanding that it also makes the steering response slower.

Have any of the rest of you with 44 fronts dealt with this at all? Is there even a pitman arm out there that fits the steering box and is longer?

Should I just get over myself and deal with it? :yap:

basalt51 · Aug 10, 2004

I don't have that problem. Shortening the arm on the knuckles would do the same thing but would reduce your leverage on teh knuckles as well. I don't know if you can redrill your knuckles or if it's time for you to go with highsteering

Stick · Aug 10, 2004

I am having a similar problem. I plan to go with hi-steer arms.

BrettM · Aug 10, 2004

I had the same problem when I ran stock Waggy steering, but going to crossover steering solved that and improved steering quality all around. I got a PartsMike arm because had the best hole to balljoint distance. A Waggy pitman arm will bolt up to your steering box and is longer, but it is also much flatter. If you could find a Waggy drop arm that could be a decent solution as well.

David Taylor · Aug 10, 2004

Try pulling the pitnam arm off and moving it over to the drivers side one tooth. You will need to use a triangular file to grove the arm. It takes about 15 min with the file to do the 4 spots. I have high-steer arms on mine and this
is what it took to get lock to lock. Credit goes to Paul Sinclair for finding this out.

fatwreck · Aug 10, 2004

Stick said:
I am having a similar problem. I plan to go with hi-steer arms.

I don't really want to go with high steer. What's the point....unless you go true high steer?

'Cause if I just get one arm on the passenger side....then I have to shorten and relocate my track bar.....but my tie rod still ends up in the same place. Yeah, I won't have the *minor* slop that I have now....but overall I don't think it's worth it.

My geometry is nice right now....track bar and drag link are approx. the same length and parallel.

I guess I'll either keep my eye out for a pitman arm or deal with it.

Between the spool in the back, having a wider rear axle than front, and not getting lock to lock......my turning radius just sucks.

BrettM · Aug 10, 2004

David Taylor said:
Try pulling the pitnam arm off and moving it over to the drivers side one tooth. You will need to use a triangular file to grove the arm. It takes about 15 min with the file to do the 4 spots. I have high-steer arms on mine and this
is what it took to get lock to lock. Credit goes to Paul Sinclair for finding this out.

you would accomplish the same thing by adjusting the length of the draglink

David Taylor · Aug 11, 2004

BrettM said:
you would accomplish the same thing by adjusting the length of the draglink

Not if you want to have the wheel centered with the same number of turns lock to lock. Left and right. I'm just telling you what works.

BrettM · Aug 11, 2004

oh, okay, I don't really care if my wheel's centered, it's close enough :laugh3:

logdog · Aug 11, 2004

Have you adjusted your steering stops?

David Taylor · Aug 11, 2004

BrettM said:
oh, okay, I don't really care if my wheel's centered, it's close enough :laugh3:

I'm sure for your getto fab it is. But that's not the point. :spin1:

He was not getting full turn to both sides. I had the same thing on mine when I went to the 44. I wanted it to be the same amount of turns to lock on each side. moving the arm over will get this done.

Stick · Aug 11, 2004

fatwreck said:
I'm not getting lock to lock out of my steering. The only thing limiting it, from what I can tell, is the steering box.

A longer pitman arm would give me a longer throw, but it's my understanding that it also makes the steering response slower.

Have any of the rest of you with 44 fronts dealt with this at all? Is there even a pitman arm out there that fits the steering box and is longer?

Should I just get over myself and deal with it? :yap:

After looking at your steering in the pic, it looks like its lined up pretty much like mine.

Paul S · Aug 11, 2004

WMS will make you a custom pitman for $125, or you can pick-up a new WJ pitman for about $45. The WJ pitman is 3/4" longer than stock & has about 2" drop, it's also indexed 1 spline to the drivers side so no need to file.
Moving your pitman 1 tooth to the dirvers side should get you back to equal turns lock to lock & will help get full lock to the right, but it might not be enough when the Pass. tire is is at full droop & you're turning right. If not, you need a longer arm.
Paul

fatwreck · Aug 11, 2004

Paul S said:
WMS will make you a custom pitman for $125, or you can pick-up a new WJ pitman for about $45. The WJ pitman is 3/4" longer than stock & has about 2" drop, it's also indexed 1 spline to the drivers side so no need to file.
Moving your pitman 1 tooth to the dirvers side should get you back to equal turns lock to lock & will help get full lock to the right, but it might not be enough when the Pass. tire is is at full droop & you're turning right. If not, you need a longer arm.
Paul

It sounds like getting a WJ pitman arm is the best solution for what I'm looking for. Any thoughts on where to get one? I would imagine that the stealership charges more than $45. :nono:

longer pitman arm for dana44 front?

fatwreck

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basalt51

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Stick

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BrettM

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David Taylor

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fatwreck

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BrettM

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David Taylor

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David Taylor

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