Check List for 100K TuneUp - What am I Missing

Okay, tomorrow morning is the big day. I will be doing fluid replacement and ignition tune-up. I've created a checklist (after reading many, many posts here) of all the stuff I'll be using tomorrow. What am I missing (I'm sure there's someting)?

Haynes Manual

Differential Fluid Change
4 Qts Amsoil
Blue RTF (instead of gasket)
Brake cleaner (to clean all gunk out of diffs)
Anti-Seize (for bolts)

Transfer Case
1 Qt Mobil 1 ATF
Blue RTF (instead of gasket)
Anti-Seize (for bolts)

Transmission
? Qts of GL-3 from Dealer
Filter?
Gasket or RTF?

Cooling System
System was already flushed when new water pump installed
Upper radiator hose
Lower radiator hose
4 hose clamps

Ignition
6 Champion plugs (from dealer)
Rotor
Distributor Cap
Hi-Performance Wires (Finally!! I got the dealer to order these)
Di-Electric Grease

What am I missing? Should I be doing any other maintenance? I don't want to have to do any last minute runs to the parts store or dealer and I'm trying to avoid an "all-day" project. ;-)

Thanks!!

Grease for u-joints and steering components? That's all I can think of off the top of my head. BTW what "Hi-Performance" wires did you get?

Cheers!

Marty

The wires are from the Mopar Performance Catalog. There are about $40 and less than the stock Cherokee wires. I needed to have the exact number, would you believe the dealer threw away the catalog??

Tot.

I wish you had said what year your XJ is since somethings are different over the years.

First place to look for "required" maintenance is the owner's manual, I hope you have one. If you do not then go down to the dealer TODAY and buy one. You should also own a set of the Factory Service Manuals for your XJ. They more than pay for themselves with information which allows you to fix items on your own.

I see posts where people try to get a PDF version for free. That stuff is copyrighted and still available. Chrysler's Techauthority still sells manuals for my 88 XJ if you call the 800 number. You are using it as it is intended so spend the $100 and get the manuals, you will not regret it. How would you like someone to PDF your manual and you get no royalities? Royalities are guarenteed to an author by the US Constitution so pay for the book.

On my 88 XJ it says to change these items every 50,000 miles:
* Distributor Cap, Rotor, Wires
* Gas tank cap
* Crankcase vent (CCV) system hoses

Every 30,000 miles
* spark plugs

Every1 5,000 in severe/towing duty or 30,000 in normal duty
* Front Differential lube
* Rear Differential lube
* Transftercase ATF
* Automatic transmission fluid.

Person additions:
* Fuel filter every 30,000 miles
* Have the brake fluid flushed and bleed every 2 years regardless of mileage
* Change CCV hoses every 30,000 miles
* Change heater hoses, uppper radiator hose, and lower radiator hose every 4 years regardless of mileage
* Change fan belt every 4 years regardless of mileage
* Change pressure bottle on my "closed cooling system" every 4 years while done the hoses.
* Change "radiator cap" every 4 years
* Install new fan clutch every 4 years.
* Install new mopar thermostat every 4 years.
* Change coolant every 2 years

Every oil change I lube the chassis.

I don't remember what they say about air filters, I run a K&N filter.

With 100,000 it time to consider sensor replacement, the sensors degrade over time. Start with the MAP sensor and the Air temp sensor. The temp sensor in the manifold. You will notice an improvement in throttle response. Also you may want to change the TPS since it will be well worn, still working but changing it will make a difference. The differences will only be noticed by you, no one else.

Also consider changing the oxygen sensor, on my 88 XJ the emissions timer tells you to change it by 90,000 miles. You may have a newer XJ with OBD-II but I'd change it anyway. You may also want to consider a new Cat coverter. I had mine changed at 125,000 and what a difference, like taking the cork out of the tail pipe.

Also with 100,000 I'd install a new radiator, replace it on your schedule not the radiators schedule. Fill the radiator with distilled water and coolant. Do not use tap water.

When you change the fan belt I'd also install new idle pullies under the hood. Spin them along with the water pump to see if they are rough. The pullies are cheap insurance. Buy a Kriket II at NAPA, the pn has been posted on here before, do a search. Tension the belt to the right value and be done with it!

Remember you have "consumed" these parts over the last 100,000 miles, by replacing them you will extend the service life of the vehicle and increase the reliability.

Sorry about the missing info about the Cherokee, it's a 97 Sport with manual transmission.

Martin, you've given me quite a list, I'll print it out and work on the various items. I bought this Jeep used, so while I have the receipts, I can never be 100% certain all the maintenance was taken care of. I know some of the items you mentioned were taken care of within the past year, but I will work on the others. The shop manual is something I will definitely purchase and use, it's just I need to do stuff now, so I will suffer with the Haynes. Even if I had a pdf version, I would still need to get the regular version. I'm hitting the dealer this afternoon for fluids and hoses...

An important question, of which I'm getting various answers, is regarding additives to the rear differential. Does the 97 Cherokee Sport, 8.25 rear, 3.07 ratio, have a controlled slip? Was one offered in '97? The dealer is telling me he never heard of a 97 Cherokee with one, the parts store is saying yes. I have a Factory Report via email from DC and it mentions nothing about a Controlled Slip or Limited Slip. Would the Command-Trac Part Time 4WD system negate the need for a Controlled Slip option? Thanks!

You won,t need RTV for the transfer case,it has a drain plug,and a fill plug.
36 mm for the bolt or IIRC 11mm for the allen plug,plus 2 qts of ATF.
Get the 195* thermostat and radiator hoses from the dealer,better quality and longer spring.
When you open the rear diff look for the tag that says to use the additive or the clutch plates&springs in the carrier.
What TC you have has nothing to do with whats in your axles.
Wayne

Thanks Wayne. I just made my first top of the day at the dealer and was told to look for the tag on the case that says "limited slip additive required." I did not see that specific tag, although there was a tag (about an inch long) that had the numbers 5107 (?). There was also another plate which was rusted over, about the same length, but I could not tell if there was any writing on it. It looked too small to be what the dealer described, however. He also said that the Limited Slip was a rare factory option (which I assume would be on my build sheet from DC, but it's not).

I realize now that I won't need RTV for the transfer case and transmission, nor a filter for the transmission.Thanks.

I'll get the thermostat/gasket, radiator hoses from the dealer (and maybe heater hoses–I hesitate to touch the heater hoses because the all the heater cores I've seen seem to have delicate intake/output tubes).

the mopar gray sealant i recommended by the manufacturer for the diffs, one tube should do both
the mopar black rtv is alo recommended for the trans pan.no need to replace the filter, it's just a screen that can be cleaned.
no sealant is needed for the transfer case, and it holds about a quart and a half.
you didnt mention fuel and air filters
a good solvent is needed for throttle body cleaning.
get a few extra cans of brake clean, you never know...
clean and adjust the rear brake shoes.

For the heater hoses, do not try to pull them off, instead use a sharp exacto or razor knife to slice them lengthwise, then you can just peel them off w/o fear of breaking the tubes on the core.
While you have it up on jackstands use a creeper to inspect the underside from end to end for any rust that is starting on the floor pan or missing undercoat areas. If any clean them up, prime and undercoat them.
Some other suggestions, stop at a good electronics store and pick up an burnishing tool, they are a thing spring steel file about the thickness of one of the prongs on a headlight. Pull your headlights and use the burnishing tool to clean the inside of the headlight sockets, they corrode over time and increase resistance to the lights. Clean them nice and shiny, apply a dab or dielectric and plug them back in. Look and locate all your grounds that go from the engine to the body, remove them and clean them with some emory cloth and reassemble.
Remove your wheels and check your brakes, a new set of pads now may save you a set of rotors later this winter when it gets too cold to work on it outside. Put either some grease or anti-seize on the lug nuts before reassembly. Replace those stock 2 piece lug nuts with a good set of chrome steel one piece and remember to put the correct size socket under the rear seat with a breaker bar because the stock lug wrench won't fit them anymore. At least I have never found 1 piece chrome lug nuts that were the same size as the stock two piece ones.
Clean your engine, clean all the dirt and grease off of it, serves two purposes, lets you spot new leaks and keeps dirt out of the moving parts, a clean engine is a happy engine I keep a rag or two in the back, when I am out in the parking lot waiting for my wife while she is shopping I pop the hood and clean it where it needs it.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. There's a lot of good stuff in your responses. We didn't get everything done over the weekend, it's quite the laundry list. This is what we got done:

Transfer case fluid (1.25 qts of Mobil 1)
Front and Rear Differentials (3.5 qts Amsoil 2000)
Transmission Fluid (3.5 qts of GL-3)
Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses
Fresh Anti-Freeze
Fram Air Filter
6 Champion Plugs
Rotor
Distributor Cap
High Performance Mopar Wires

Discovered a few things and only had one real problem. The problem was a dealer error. He gave me 2 qts of Manual Transmission GL-3 and 2 qts of Manual Transaxle Fluid. Same bottles, same style labels, slightly different text. I was not happy. It required a rush trip for replacement fluid...had to go to 2 delaers, the Dodge dealership finally had the stuff!). But at least we got the right fluid.

Since this was a used vehicle I recently purchased, I had no idea what to expect. All the fluids were in VERY good condition. So good, we probably didn't need to change them. However, better safe than sorry. But the plugs, cap and rotor were another story. The plugs were well past due, the firing "tip" was practically missing! The rotor edge was all sparkly and putted and the interior of the cap had "deposits" on all the nodes. But the most shocking fact - I was getting 19.6mpg before we did anything!! 19.6 mpg on toasted Champion plugs! I would consider that a miracle from my 89 Limited. I think the standard transmission is definitely helping my mileage, but I'm anxious to fill up weekend and see what my results will be after all this work.

I'm going to work on the rest of the checklist gradually. Need to change the oil in a month or so, and will try some injector cleaner at that point. Is the stuff from the dealer (the BG44?) really aggressive? I don't want to "sandblast" the injectors clean, and probably 75% of the 118,000 miles on this XJ are highway miles.

As far as the lug nuts, I am going to inspect them and if they look the least bid dodgy, or if they look like they are 2 part, I will swap them with the lugs on my 89 (before I donate it to charity) that I recently had to get changed.

Onwards and upwards....