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Question about using stock CAs in MOAB

XJguy

NAXJA Forum User
I have designed some rediculously awesome control arms that I am hoping to make and perhaps even market. But they will take time and money. That being said I dont know if they will be ready by Moab :party: (toooo much on the :flame: right now). So my question is, with 5.5" of lift and 33" tires, will I be able to tackle the trails with the rest of you (not the hardest ones, gotta keep the XJ in one piece :wave: ) or do I really need to get onto installing some longer CAs?

I can clearly see that the lift has caused the front wheels to be much closer to the trailing edge of the wheel opening but I am trimming away for the BW flares which is evening things out, but still I am concerned. :banghead:

XJguy
 
Dude, Moab is like 5 months away. If you can't get your "rediculously awesome control arms " done by then......
 
If you dont know what your doing,how do you expect to produce and sell your product???
 
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RCP Phx said:
If you dont know what your doing,how do you expect to produce and sell your product???

I do not have to go to the moon, to design a spacecraft that can go there. ;) How many of the engineers that desinged the spacecraft were ever on the moon before the first astronauts landed there?

Seriously, to make the ultimate control arms does not take much thought, but it isnt cheap..but let me digress. I just want to know if stock CAs will cut it?

XJguy
 
pair8hd said:
Dude, Moab is like 5 months away. If you can't get your "rediculously awesome control arms " done by then......

If you knew how much crap I have going on in my life right now you would tell me to sell both Jeeps and not even think of going to MOAB or anywher else for that matter!

XJguy
 
I wouldn't do it, you're way past the height for stock arms. You can usually find used ones for sale if ya look, they don't have to be the best if it's just to get you by for now, plus you'll probably be able to resell 'em for close to what you pay for them when you're done. Don't give up! TC
 
One other option is, but maybe more expensive. Look into the drop brackets, that's what's really going to affect how the XJ handles on and offroad. I have seen a few guys get away with OEM LAC's and brackets, OEM ones are cheap too used or new. Carry an extra set.

Second, if your going to do modified short arms anyway. No matter how well you make them the CA angles is what is going to get in your way. Either get a pair of RE brakets or try to fabricate your own. I really like mine. HTH
 
5.5" of lift and stock CA's?

how did you even get them connected.:eek:

The raw steel for control arms are not really expensive.
The bushings will cost you more than the steel and they are only $30.
 
John - JeepsWorld.com said:
5.5" of lift and stock CA's?

how did you even get them connected.:eek:

The raw steel for control arms are not really expensive.
The bushings will cost you more than the steel and they are only $30.

LOL...it wasnt easy, but it is all together. The tubing is not the problem but the machining and the other special pieces that must be fabricated for them is. Unless I go with the material that I would really like to use; titanium or 4130, then its all gonna be $$$$$$.

For those of you who have this height lift, did the longer CA's bring the wheel back to the center of the wheel opening? I am assuming it did, but there is no better way of knowing that then by seeing and doing.

XJguy
 
XJguy said:
For those of you who have this height lift, did the longer CA's bring the wheel back to the center of the wheel opening? I am assuming it did, but there is no better way of knowing that then by seeing and doing.

XJguy

Here you go, compliments of Bones.....yes, the proper LCA length will bring your XJ back to 101.5" WB, and the proper UCA length will dial in the caster. 7.5 degrees is stock, you can live with 4 degrees, but the closer to stock the better. And your front shaft will be happier too.

For future reference, you can rely on that old geometry formula for a
triangle. A stock XJ has horizontal control arms (they are parallel to the
body within a minor degree of error). When you lift, they go to an angle. To
maintain stock wheelbase, use the A squared + B squared = C squared formula.
A = stock LCA length (15.75")
B = lift height
C = Control arm length need to maintain wheelbase
So for a 6" lift:
A = 15.75 squared = 248
B = 6 squared = 36
C = square root of 248 + 36 = 16.85
I just use 16.75 because 17" is a bit too long.
For a 5" lift:
A = 248
B = 25
C = 16.52

And stop all that foolish babble about not coming to Moab in October........

XJEEPER
 
Seriously. LCA are about the easiest thing on a suspention to fab. Really.

Find the length that you want from eye center to eye center. Use a tubing knocher to cut a piece of 2" 1/4 wall tubing into two peices. Use a chop or sawzall to cut two short peices off wahtever the width of the mount is minus a little for play. weld that that piece on fully install the bushing. install the half done LCAs on both sides and use a level and peice of tubing to find the correct centers for the second sideof the LCA by using the chassis mounts that are already there. mark with a sharpie. cut the end off with the knocker. use your mark as a guide for the correct angle. weld on another short peice install the bushing install the lca and you are golden. Thrown on some paint if you want.

It don't get any easier. Or if you want too, don't install them and find some better way of knoching it at the correct angle.

If you can cut a peice of metal and weld one back together. Then you can make LCAs.

Tim
 
Thanks Tim, but you know how it goes...I cant just do it that simple..got to go the extra mile, story of my life. Exotic metals, high strength, light weight, bearings, unhindered articulation and ajustability all come into mind hmmmmmm. :paperwork:

XJguy
 
"5.5" of lift and stock CA's?

how did you even get them connected."

LOL when I did a spacer boost over my 3" coils I didn't unhook the CAs, just flexed it up good. When we trail-swapped one on Ron S busted custom LCA with an OEM piece (he was @ +8" or so) it wasn't fun - Tellico in the rain, in the dark - required winch & jacks IIRC )

If you are steering OK at + 5.5" for an XC roadtrip, the stock CAs will be fine. I ran OEM U/LCA on +5" for a couple seasons with no problems. Ideal? No, Do-able? Yes. Trim the rear edge of the shock mount for less bind/more flex.
 
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