-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Mark Hinkley/hp30
- Thread starter stevo
- Start date
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
don't get your hopes up....Hinkley is a hack, and there's really no science to his game.
the only reason he runs a 30 is because his wife doesn't give him a big enough allowance to run a 44.
the only reason he runs a 30 is because his wife doesn't give him a big enough allowance to run a 44.
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
stevo said:
what do you suppose your max tire size will be on those axles?
Ramsey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
wo 38's on a 30? that just doesnt make sense to me. just how beefy can you make one of those things.
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
stevo said:
well in that case, I really think you should be looking at a serious 44, say an HP 44 out of a ford....especially if your goal is 38's......that's full width territory, and you'll want to run 5.38's which is something you can't do in a 30.
35,36-38 is not what i personally call "daily driver"
when you said your rig was a daily driver, I was preparred to talk you into keeping your 30......
but I can see this turning into one of those old, tired debates, and they're not fun anymore.
35's is one thing....barely......36-38 requires serious commitment and money to run a set-up worth a shit.
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
stevo said:
okay what tire size do you have RIGHT NOW?
because maybe you should think long and hard about what your immediate needs are, and what your next step will be.
DON'T consider doing anything, until you know exactly what your next step will be.......
because there is a huge differnce between what you would do to run 35's and 38's, and all that shit in-between.
- Location
- Indiana-Missouri
stevo said:
do you break u-joints/axles?
for a person that does not want to get into a bunch of fab/suspension projects, with a tire size of 35, and also considering that you will take a way-big jump to a bigger tire size later, I would invest in some GOOD u-joint and chro-mo axles of your choice.
when you go to 38's, you are not gonna want to add those to a "daily driver" set-up.....
THATS when you'll go whole-hog.
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
listen to Beez, don't listen to a word he says on off-topic, but he knows what he's talking about here :laugh3:
the jump from 33s to 35s is HUGE in time and money, but not really that huge in performance. most of the reason for this is that I'm not one of those people that thinks 35s are okay long-term on a D30.
This goes against a lot of trends, and a lot of people's thinking but stick with 33s! I honestly wish I had. The Rubicon and Fordyce, two world famous trails, are honestly too easy with 35s and lockers (with the exception of the 50ft of Little Sluice). Run 33s with a D30 front with 760 joints and a locker, a D44 rear with a locker, 4.88 gears, and proper skids, and you will be able to go just about anywhere and you may actually be forced to learn to drive. You will also still have something that is a comfortable daily driver; I have 33s that I put on anytime I'm not on the trail because the 35s get nearly 5mpg less.
the jump from 33s to 35s is HUGE in time and money, but not really that huge in performance. most of the reason for this is that I'm not one of those people that thinks 35s are okay long-term on a D30.
This goes against a lot of trends, and a lot of people's thinking but stick with 33s! I honestly wish I had. The Rubicon and Fordyce, two world famous trails, are honestly too easy with 35s and lockers (with the exception of the 50ft of Little Sluice). Run 33s with a D30 front with 760 joints and a locker, a D44 rear with a locker, 4.88 gears, and proper skids, and you will be able to go just about anywhere and you may actually be forced to learn to drive. You will also still have something that is a comfortable daily driver; I have 33s that I put on anytime I'm not on the trail because the 35s get nearly 5mpg less.
YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
Two things:
First, why'd you ask this of Mark Hinkley? Your question suggests that he thinks a D30 would hold up to the abuse that 38's would certainly put to one. I can't recall Hinkley ever owning a set of 38's much less on an XJ. Hinkley would probably be a strong advocate AGAINST going bigger than 33's and he's got the list of "gettin' it crew" trails to show for it - his XJ's are usually among the least lifted, smaller tire'd rigs on those runs - and he has very little difficulty going where the big tire'd, tube buggies go.
Second, you haven't told us what kind of wheeling you plan on doing with your rig. A rock rig is certainly set up different than a mud rig and so on.
I have 35's on a "super-turd" D30 (297 shafts, welded tubes/pumpkin, trussed, Detroit locked, Phat Jeeps Canyon Climber steering, and a '99 Durango steering box with external cooler) with a D44 rear axle.
I would never consider going bigger than 35's because the sheer weight of bigger tires when in motion would so easily break the pinion, u-joints or locker just because of the small size of these parts in the little D30. I run 4:56 gears and could use to step up to 4:88's but I'm cautious because the pinion is quite a bit smaller than what I've got now.
I'm also at about 8" lift with the R.E. drop brackets. Going bigger than 35's seems to me that a guy would pretty much have to go long arm in order to get more lift and articulation to make the bigger tires be an advantage. Additionally, the bigger the tire, the more your turning radius is reduced. The D44 front may help recover some of that radius - not sure, but the D30 would be hurting.
Tell us what kind of wheeling you wanna do - that'll help us target your question a little better.
Also, If you haven't already, check out www.xjdb.com and type in 35, 37, 38 in the search field and it'll pull up pics of rigs with those tire sizes - you'll be able to see what others are running and the kind of wheeling they're doing.
Hope this helps!
First, why'd you ask this of Mark Hinkley? Your question suggests that he thinks a D30 would hold up to the abuse that 38's would certainly put to one. I can't recall Hinkley ever owning a set of 38's much less on an XJ. Hinkley would probably be a strong advocate AGAINST going bigger than 33's and he's got the list of "gettin' it crew" trails to show for it - his XJ's are usually among the least lifted, smaller tire'd rigs on those runs - and he has very little difficulty going where the big tire'd, tube buggies go.
Second, you haven't told us what kind of wheeling you plan on doing with your rig. A rock rig is certainly set up different than a mud rig and so on.
I have 35's on a "super-turd" D30 (297 shafts, welded tubes/pumpkin, trussed, Detroit locked, Phat Jeeps Canyon Climber steering, and a '99 Durango steering box with external cooler) with a D44 rear axle.
I would never consider going bigger than 35's because the sheer weight of bigger tires when in motion would so easily break the pinion, u-joints or locker just because of the small size of these parts in the little D30. I run 4:56 gears and could use to step up to 4:88's but I'm cautious because the pinion is quite a bit smaller than what I've got now.
I'm also at about 8" lift with the R.E. drop brackets. Going bigger than 35's seems to me that a guy would pretty much have to go long arm in order to get more lift and articulation to make the bigger tires be an advantage. Additionally, the bigger the tire, the more your turning radius is reduced. The D44 front may help recover some of that radius - not sure, but the D30 would be hurting.
Tell us what kind of wheeling you wanna do - that'll help us target your question a little better.
Also, If you haven't already, check out www.xjdb.com and type in 35, 37, 38 in the search field and it'll pull up pics of rigs with those tire sizes - you'll be able to see what others are running and the kind of wheeling they're doing.
Hope this helps!
Well now,
I really like the D30 for the idea it is there and the size of it. Less to hit on things.
I did build the HELL out of it, just because that is me. I was just seeing how much i could do and how much it could take.
I was able to make it hold up to everything with 35s that I could throw at it with the exception of the ring gear. Now I do believe that the ring gear is breaking because of shock load and not flex of the housing, but that is debatable. I think the axles and joints are so strong now the ring gear is its weak point.
Now saying all that, I still think the D30 is good to build for tires up to 35" for moderate/hardcore, head connected to your foot, wheeling. ( my foot is no longer connected to my brain while wheeling, I use Mr Mo way too much now a days!!!!!!!!!)(reason fro breaking ring gear) And 33" tires are probably a great choice to stay with. 38" tires NO WAY! Not for long at least.
I am going to go to my d44 soon because of the fact I am a Mr. Mo user now and have become addicted to the right skinny pedal!
I will still use all the WJ stuff just like the D30. If I didn't already have the axle I would be going to a high steer setup (maybe).
mark
I really like the D30 for the idea it is there and the size of it. Less to hit on things.
I did build the HELL out of it, just because that is me. I was just seeing how much i could do and how much it could take.
I was able to make it hold up to everything with 35s that I could throw at it with the exception of the ring gear. Now I do believe that the ring gear is breaking because of shock load and not flex of the housing, but that is debatable. I think the axles and joints are so strong now the ring gear is its weak point.
Now saying all that, I still think the D30 is good to build for tires up to 35" for moderate/hardcore, head connected to your foot, wheeling. ( my foot is no longer connected to my brain while wheeling, I use Mr Mo way too much now a days!!!!!!!!!)(reason fro breaking ring gear) And 33" tires are probably a great choice to stay with. 38" tires NO WAY! Not for long at least.
I am going to go to my d44 soon because of the fact I am a Mr. Mo user now and have become addicted to the right skinny pedal!
I will still use all the WJ stuff just like the D30. If I didn't already have the axle I would be going to a high steer setup (maybe).mark
ChuckD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kerman, CA
Why use the WJ stuff? Is it lighter?
Paul S
NAXJA Member #103
- Location
- Woodland Hills, CA
I'll throw my 2 cents in. I've been running a polished HP30 (Warn axles, 5.5" hubs, CTM's, WJ steering & brakes) for about 7 years. I've broken 1 stub axle (back when I was running stock axles), 1 pinion & I've replaced the ball joints once (at 100,000 miles). This is on 35's. It's been over the 'Con about 9 times, Die Trying & Topless a couple times, & probably about 60+ Hammer runs. I also have done a fair amount of desert type racing, & the housing is straight.
Having said that, & as good as I think the 30 is, I will eventually build an HP44, only to get true hysteer, not for strenght.
I would not trade an HP30 for any LP44, no matter how well the LP44 was built.
I would not run larger than 35's on my 30.
Paul
Having said that, & as good as I think the 30 is, I will eventually build an HP44, only to get true hysteer, not for strenght.
I would not trade an HP30 for any LP44, no matter how well the LP44 was built.
I would not run larger than 35's on my 30.
Paul
Very simple. Add up your costs. A full width 44 can easily be cut down to a couple inches wider than stock. Once you have the housing, what exactly costs more about a D44?
You are going to need chromo axles for both. You are going to want lockout hubs for both. You are going to want to gear and lock both. You are going to want raised steering and trackbar for both.
You don't need to truss the 44. The 44 has larger ball joints, which is a BIG deal for a daily driver on 35's. The 44 has larger brakes, which is a BIG deal on a daily driver. The 44 can easily be set up with flat top arms for hi-clearance steering.
Your long term plans should be involving a customized front suspension. The 44 is a much better platform.
Why do it twice? Build your D30, and that's exactly what you'll be doing. That, my friend, will not save you a dime.
Just ask everybody here who has a 44 now.
You want to run 35's with an eye on larger tires and start building the 44 now.
Nay
You are going to need chromo axles for both. You are going to want lockout hubs for both. You are going to want to gear and lock both. You are going to want raised steering and trackbar for both.
You don't need to truss the 44. The 44 has larger ball joints, which is a BIG deal for a daily driver on 35's. The 44 has larger brakes, which is a BIG deal on a daily driver. The 44 can easily be set up with flat top arms for hi-clearance steering.
Your long term plans should be involving a customized front suspension. The 44 is a much better platform.
Why do it twice? Build your D30, and that's exactly what you'll be doing. That, my friend, will not save you a dime.
Just ask everybody here who has a 44 now.
You want to run 35's with an eye on larger tires and start building the 44 now.
Nay
JnJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Antonio TX
Aw poor LP44 getting bashed..Paul S said:
I went with the Waggy 44, yes it is low pinion. Why? It was cheap, I had a D30 with disconnect and 260 u-joints, now I can go highsteer, got bigger U-joints, bigger ball joints, can go to deeper gears, got locking hubs (I did replace the stockers with Warn Premiums), and I got bigger brakes. So, is the LP44 an upgrade for me? Hell ya it is!
