Box Tubing XJ Rockers

I have the Tompkin 2x2 rails but found that 2 years worth of coming down hard on them still crushes the rocker panel so, I'm planning on using box tubing to replace the rockers and boat-siding it at the same time...

So, Those of you that have done it, what size, thickness box tube did you use?

I used 1/8inch wall 2x6 tubing replaced the rocker completely.. but mine does stick out a bit... I use them like the CJ guys can as a pivot point.. Lean them on a tree or rock and just ride right around.. You basically weld along the pinch seam and then support a bit underneath to the unibody and Voila!

I'm going with 2x4 3/16" wall ( also will be air tanks...)

Brian Carpenter said:

I used 1/8inch wall 2x6 tubing replaced the rocker completely.. but mine does stick out a bit... I use them like the CJ guys can as a pivot point.. Lean them on a tree or rock and just ride right around.. You basically weld along the pinch seam and then support a bit underneath to the unibody and Voila!

Click to expand...

1/4in wall will prevent denting, larger diameter tubing will prevent bending.
6in is a large flat surface, with only 1/8in It will bent fairly easily if you fall on them.

Id do 3/16in or 1/4in, 2x6 would be VERy heavy if it was that thick, and it would be very difficult to weld that to the sheet metal.

You could do 2x6 1/8in then add a 3/16in plate to it to help prevent denting.

I used 2x6 box, 1/4' wall. They were endcapped wit 1/4" plate. Weighed about 60 lbs each. Drilled, tapped for air fittings, and pressure tested for leaks at 350 psi with nitrogen. (OBA someday soon)

I mounted mine by plug welding 1/2" holes in the unibody overlap every 2 1/2"
along the inside, and along the outside edge I used 1/4" holes plug welded every 3" and fully welded the edge. Just start the weld on the box tube, and bring it into the sheetmetal. You'll get good at it after the first few. The key is clean as much rust, paint, and undercoating as possible before welding.

They sit even with the floor and eliminate the pinch weld to give you more ground clearance. A lot of work to do it right, but well worth it. Also helps stiffen the chassis.

I use 3"x5" .120" wall and weld a piece of 1.25" or 1.5" angle iron to get them to line up correctly with the body. There's a 5/8" taper from front to back at the pinch seam. It's held up to many years of abuse with minor scarring.

Just did mine this weekend, 3x5x.120 worked slick. I also added a 1.75x.120 hoop that is spaced out 2" to use as a step/pivot point. I ended up cutting out and replacing nearly half of the pinch seam on the driver's side thanks to Iowa road salt.

excellent :thumbup: Thanks for the replies/ ideas.

Probably go with 3/16, knowing my driving habits. i was thinking about the hoop idea too...

2x4 3/16 and added a kick out tube to push off trees:
sealed and tapped for air

Hi,

I need to replace my rusted, crunched-up rockers this weekend. I read the writeups at madxj.org and this thread and others here. Leaning toward 2x6 box tube 3/16 thick. I'd like them to stick out a few inches to protect the doors. I intend to tap them for air. So far so good?

Trying to decide how to attach these. I want to leave the top surface of the existing rockers (where the door seals contact) as a weld line and cut away everything below. I like the idea of using angle iron to make a shelf so the box tube can be lined up with the exterior. Just not sure if I should weld this shelf to the seam that hangs down vertically below the floor level, or cut the seam away to the floors and weld the shelf to the back wall near where the floor boards connect. I'm inclined to cut the seam away on the assumption it would catch rocks and get bent up. What should I do here?

One last thing. Some tie the rockers to the pseudo-frame rail, others don't. Am I being naive to think that I don't need to do this?

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org

ashmanjeepxj said:

1/4in wall will prevent denting, larger diameter tubing will prevent bending.
6in is a large flat surface, with only 1/8in It will bent fairly easily if you fall on them.

Id do 3/16in or 1/4in, 2x6 would be VERy heavy if it was that thick, and it would be very difficult to weld that to the sheet metal.

You could do 2x6 1/8in then add a 3/16in plate to it to help prevent denting.

Click to expand...

Don't forget that by adding this much metal to the bottomside of your rig you will lose the weight benefit of the XJ. You will be adding enough weight it might as well have a steel frame under it. Without it being structural. The Jeep was built with something thin like .20 guage sheet metal for a bottom. That by itself will provide plenty of structure. What you are doing is protecting it, not re-building the Jeep.

Besides, the dents add character.