Fog Lights

I just bought these new driving lamps, and I wanted to hook them up seperate from the headlights. Did the factory fog lights have a seperate switch? Pictures would help. Here's the lamps:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/625768/3

The OEM fog lights have their own switch, located to the left of the steering column and right of the headlight switch (pre-1996 position). The dash switch gets its power from the low beam headlights circuit (only works with low beams on - a legal requirement in many states - often ignored!!!). The switch controls a relay, which feeds high-amperage power to the lights. A relay is just a remote switch that can handle a serious electrical load. Here's a link that will show you how to use a relay:
http://www.se-r.net/electrical/wiring_relays.html
Relays feeding headlights through heavier guage wiring make headlights brighter too, and are important if you go to high-wattage halogens. The factory headlight wiring is pretty light for higher-than standard wattages, but some here run higher wattage off the standard wiring. Fire risk.....

First off, thank you very much for your help. Secondly, would there be any problem splicing the wires on the factory fog lights to run power to both the fog lights and my driing lamps?

you`ll probably not be extremely happy with those- you *can* upgrade the bulbs, but not by much- they work, but thats about it. If you go more than that 55watt bulb, plan on upping the wires.

factory switch should be on the dash/left side. They wired the foglamps through a relay that ran off the low beam leg- relay location shopuld be drivers side, about halfway down the fender, mounted inner fender/topish.

If all you have is a blank plate where the switch would be, check to see if you have the wiring- Ive seen many a jeep that didnt have a switch, but did have the wires-

no wires? time for a wiring job.

fast typers!

They have H3 Halogen bulbs stock. One of the reasons I bought them in the first place.

You could run both fogs and driving light off one circuit, but why? You generally want fogs for slower speeds/bad weaterh/trail running with theri wide pattern, and riving lights with their longer narrower pattern for highway driving. Anyway, if you run two fogs rated at 55 watts each plus two driving lights at 55 watts eac, you are putting 220 watts of load on that circuit. Watts divided by volts equals amps, so running 220 watts at 13 volts (full voltage from heavier wire and relay) gives 16.9 amps. That is quite a load. Use at least 12 guage wiring (10 would be better) in the power circuit (lighter wire is fine for the control circuit to the relay), and run a 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker. Don't even think of wiring without including a fuse, as close to the power supply source as possible.

Hmmm...on the panel where I have my defroster controls, I have space for an extra switch...I could wire up the driving lights there. I'd only be using these off-road, by the way.

Yes, I agree...damn fast typers on here! Thanks for all of your help guys!

I finally cracked open the box today, they do have their own switch and it looks nice enough. I might wire it up a few inches above the knee bolster. Me and my brother-in-law are going to install the lights this weekend, as well as put on my winshield banner.