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D-44 identification

Brian Carpenter

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vermont
OK, So I think I have a Dana 44 rearend that I scrapped off of a junker I bought for $200. Problem is that it's a bit rusty.. by "a bit" I mean really really, and by "rusty" i mean it rains under the vehicle when you hit it with a hammer.
What is the best way of identifying an axle? How can I be sure? I would also like to know how to know the gear ratio (if it'll fit with my current d-30 front).
Where are all the smarties out there? :helpme:
 
It should look like this:

dana44.jpg


10 bolts. Kinda hexagonal in shape. Should also have a 44 cast in the lower right hand side I think, in the gusset looking area. Hard to see when its really rusty though.
 
Brian Carpenter said:
OK, So I think I have a Dana 44 rearend that I scrapped off of a junker I bought for $200. Problem is that it's a bit rusty.. by "a bit" I mean really really, and by "rusty" i mean it rains under the vehicle when you hit it with a hammer.
What is the best way of identifying an axle? How can I be sure? I would also like to know how to know the gear ratio (if it'll fit with my current d-30 front).
Where are all the smarties out there? :helpme:

your post doesn't say auto or stick. That part needs to be compatable or there will be a ratio diference. The Dana 44 has a hexagon shape to it, and most I've seen have a sqaure plug in the cover for drainage. as far as compatablilty with a D-30 sure it will go in, your ratios however need to be simpatico... :spin1:
 
If its not rusted to bad what is the bill of materials # stamped on the tube. Dont use a wire brush to try to uncover them or they could be lost forever. Or just post a pic. Also most 44's were limited slip should have a tag hanging off a lower cover bolt. I found mine at the junk yard too paid the same thats a steal for such a gem.

Thor
 
Thor said:
If its not rusted to bad what is the bill of materials # stamped on the tube. Dont use a wire brush to try to uncover them or they could be lost forever. Or just post a pic. Also most 44's were limited slip should have a tag hanging off a lower cover bolt. I found mine at the junk yard too paid the same thats a steal for such a gem.

Thor
of the 5 or so XJ D44s I've encountered, they were ALL open diffs, therefore I'm skeptical of this information.
 
I have had 2 XJ D44s in my possesion, both out of fully loaded Wagoneer Limiteds and neither of them were LS. I am also skeptical.
 
Well I'm not going to argue with what you have seen.. or what I have seen. But my axle is off a 88 Cherokee Pioneer and is LS. My source is a Chief Mechanic at Jeep with 42 years of employment he is retired but still a full time contracter/trainner at the Dallas training facillty for Jeep. Not trying to provide bad info.. only help to those who are asking. I can only speak from my experience.

Thor
 
Joe said:
Here a picture of my D-44 on the XJ.

Jeep_w_new_MTRs_004.sized.jpg
This looks riht, but the coloring is all wrong, no flakes.
As for reading anything off of it -nothin'doin-
It'll take me a few days with a wire brush to even hit metal..
I suppose the positive thing is that it still rings true when you knock it with a hammer, and it's the right price... I bet about six cans of rust-oleum after a brush will make it a keeper, until then the wife just stares and shakes her head.

:confused: One question though... Anyone have a good trick to get off a wasted lug nut on an aluminum rim? I don't have any torches, and would love to re-sell the rims afterwards. :arrowl:
 
Find a 12 point socket that would be a tight fit and hammer it on, then use a breaker bar to bust it loose.
 
I just bought one today....out of an '87 Cherokee Limited....it had a factory appearing hitch....so I peaked under it (I wasn't really looking for a d44, but just curios) and sure enough it was one.

Now that it is in the truck I was able to scrap off enough goop to find a factory tag saying to only use Limited Slip Diff Lube......so if this is factory would that make it a Trac-loc?

Justin
 
Yeah, that sounds about right.. The junkert I bought was an 87 wagoneer limited.. I just cut it out the other day.. its now in the barn awaiting rennovation.

Would any of you see any problem with trussing the axle on the top, and relocating the shock mounts up, more in-line with the axle tube? Is it even necessary? I haven't noticed any ill effects of the stock d-35c un-trussed and qall original.
 
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