Good luck with 2001's??

[BIGSLVRXJ]

My brother is getting a 2001 Cherokee Sport. 54,000 miles. Have you guys that have Cherokees of that year had good luck(engine, transmission) with them? I realize that right now they shouldnt have problems because theyre still fairly new. I have a 1990 so theres quite a difference. Hes not mechanically inclined at all so Im hoping for the best of luck to him. Any major probs from anyone though?

[casm]

My brother is getting a 2001 Cherokee Sport. 54,000 miles. Have you guys that have Cherokees of that year had good luck(engine, transmission) with them? I realize that right now they shouldnt have problems because theyre still fairly new. I have a 1990 so theres quite a difference. Hes not mechanically inclined at all so Im hoping for the best of luck to him. Any major probs from anyone though?

OK, here's what I can tell you about mine; it's a 2001 Sport, 4-door, 4WD, auto. I've only had it for five months at this stage, but it's covered 92,000 miles in its relatively short life (10,000 of which are mine) - consequently, I'm beginning to see a few things start to shake down.

- Replaced tires just after purchase; so far, no major wear issues.

- TPS went at about 84,000, but I think that's because I may have soaked it hitting some water.

- Had to do the lower control arm bushings on both sides.

- Front brake discs are warped, which happened around 3,000 or so miles ago. Planning on replacing them with cross-drilled & vented items.

- Rear brakes seem to be reluctant to self-adjust. Going progressively faster in reverse before nailing the pedal seems to be gradually freeing them up, though.

- Left speaker wiring for the (stock) stereo has recently started cutting out on bumps. Another bump usually fixes it. Haven't got around to looking at it.

It's a Southern California car, so can't really comment about rust. Mine also appeared to have done very little off-road work in its life (the underside was too clean), so the transfer case is quiet and works fine; no popping in and out of ratio or similar.

With any vehicle that new, there shouldn't be problems as long as it hasn't been abused. Also, with only 54,000 on the clock he should still have some of the original warranty left; it'd be worth transferring that into his own name.

So far, I'm happy. I'll be interested to see how it shapes up over the next few months as I start changing things.

[BIGSLVRXJ]

Thanks for the input. Any more?

[Lawn Cher']

One of my fleet is a '01 XJ Limited... we ordered it with Upcountry, tow package, ABS and some interior niceties. It obviously has the 4.0, AW4, 242, D35 w/ Trac-Lok. We have 65k miles on it, only requiring regular maintenance. Compared to my '97 it has some minor interior changes. Otherwise it has the usual basic durability of any XJ with the variety of minor issues. The control arm bushings are too soft and can cause some front end wobble when hitting bumps in some situations. It has gone through several sets of rotors, but now that I am using a torque wrench on the lugs that problem has been cured. The indicator light for the low setting on the driver side heated seat is out, and the front passenger power window switch is faulty. The transfer case linkage occasionally rattles when sitting at idle. There are some driveline vibes from 75 mph and up. The Infinity stereo is great. It is quick and fun to drive, just wish it was cammed to have more low end torque.

I'm pleased with it, and am glad to have one of the last of the Mohicans. Compared to your '90, the one your brother is considering will have a much nicer interior, smoother looking exterior, a little more power, and similar reliability.

You can see a pic of our '01 here: http://www.thekilpatricks.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=633

[DenLip]

My brother is getting a 2001 Cherokee Sport. 54,000 miles. Have you guys that have Cherokees of that year had good luck(engine, transmission) with them? I realize that right now they shouldnt have problems because theyre still fairly new. [...] Any major probs from anyone though?

Not quite an '01... but my '00 Sport has 55k miles, and has yet to undergo anything that I'd call "major".

- I just did a new steering stabilizer/dampner yesterday. It's been shot for a couple of months, and made it a bit interesting to drive on bumpy highways! $85 part (dealer), and an easy 30-minute replacement.

- My drivers' seat frame (the actual "bucket" of the seat) cracked a few months ago. I'm a big guy, but that still seemed out of the ordinary.

- I put on new tires at 39k... (I'm more sensitive about baldness than many folks... but, frankly, I just couldn't deal with another winter on the Wrangler RT/S crap. New ones are Pirelli Scorpion AT, and are better all around: nicer ride, better handling, far better wet/snow traction, and they were cheaper! Hard to find, tho. BFG AT/KO is probably the nearest substitute.

- I still have original shocks, brakes, etc.

- I have a few rattles, including the Tcase shifter rattle that someone else mentioned. Overall, still quite solid for 5 years.

- There is a bit of rust rearing it's ugly head in places underneath. I haven't investigated it closely yet... but mainly on places such as the pinch seams along the sides, where a sheetmetal edge is left in the open. And I did take care of a bit of rust in the front corners of the drip gutters, and in the door frames last fall.

- My front diff is leaking a bit around the pinion. The dealer overfilled it when I had them do my 30k maintenance. Serves me right for being so stupid!

I'm quite happy... and expect that she'll run to 200k like everyone elses' has!

Den

[casm]

It has gone through several sets of rotors, but now that I am using a torque wrench on the lugs that problem has been cured.

Can I get the details on that? I'm about to replace mine and would love to know any way of extending their life.

One thing that was also replaced which I neglected to mention: the steering stabiliser. It started leaking heavily at around 84,000, and was replaced with a Rancho heavy-duty unit. At $56, it was cheaper than the $80 or so the dealer wanted for the same item (a trend that has continued in my investigation of suspension components, it seems).

[BillR]

I'm real happy with mine, although the engine and tranny are the only parts in the drivetrain that are still stock. No rattles, no issues at all. I have almost 59K on mine. I have no rust, but mine's an AZ vehicle. :thumbup:

[Lawn Cher']

Can I get the details on that? I'm about to replace mine and would love to know any way of extending their life.

Our '01 has the full cast rotors, and aluminum wheels. Supposedly the full cast rotors are better at resisting warping than the composite rotors as found on my '97, but I found out through trial and error that it is more critical to properly torque the lug nuts to keep the rotor from warping. My '97 has steel wheels, which are more forgiving for zapping with the impact wrench until tight. Doing this on the '01 with aluminum wheels resulted in 2 sets of Mopar rotors getting warped with low mileage on them. When I put the 3rd set on (from NAPA,) I used a torque wrench to avoid over tightening them, and they are working out very well.

[casm]

Doing this on the '01 with aluminum wheels resulted in 2 sets of Mopar rotors getting warped with low mileage on them. When I put the 3rd set on (from NAPA,) I used a torque wrench to avoid over tightening them, and they are working out very well.

Good to know, since that's exactly the setup I'm running. What're the torque specs for the lugs?

Incidentally, thanks very much for the answers - they are truly appreciated. Being my first foray into both Cherokees and modified 4WD, I've got something of a learning curve here with the XJ - but this forum in general has been a major help to me. It really is relieving to run into a group of enthusiasts who are as patient and helpful as everyone here has been.

[Lawn Cher']

What're the torque specs for the lugs?

I don't recall offhand, but it may be listed in your owners manual; if not, then it is definitely in the service manual. Someone may have posted it on oem tech before, so doing a search there may prove fruitful. I think is was somewhere around 80-90 ft-lbs, but don't quote me on that. Not responsible for loose nuts!

[Lawn Cher']

Here, I found it...

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19448&highlight=lug+torque

I was kinda right.

[remat]

My brother is getting a 2001 Cherokee Sport. 54,000 miles. Have you guys that have Cherokees of that year had good luck(engine, transmission) with them? I realize that right now they shouldnt have problems because theyre still fairly new. I have a 1990 so theres quite a difference. Hes not mechanically inclined at all so Im hoping for the best of luck to him. Any major probs from anyone though?

I have a 2000 Sport with 65K on it and have had NO problems!

Oh wait, the passenger side door trim is starting to peel off.. :)

[steve01XJ]

JeepGuy,

I bought my '01 Sport last October with 19,000 miles on it - I just turned 30,000 yesterday. Stock Sport setup - 4.0, p/t 4WD, steel wheels. Here have been my issues:

An annoying fuel evaporation problem in the injector #2 or #3. There has been a TSB on this, and ever since my last dealer visit it has been fine.

Speaker wires leave a lot to be desired. That is my next project. I lost the left drivers side speaker competely.

Occasional T-case rattle, but not major.

Brakes have been fine - no warping - yet.

Terrible gas mileage though. I am only getting about 13-15 mpg, but it probably has more to do with the lousy MTBE gas they sell in Chicago. In the winter I was between 18-20.

Occasionally I have indicator lights which go on like the airbag light and/or the MIL - these are a result of bad electrical connectors. Haven't gotten to the point where a firm bump to the dash does not fix it. I will need to deal with this soon though.

I am going in for my 30K service this weekend. So far, no leaks, squeaks or clunks. The car is fast, full of power, a little more comfortable than earlier models, and will likely meet my goal of 200,000 miles. They are still tanks and as long as you do not overpay for it, it will be a great investment.

[DenLip]

I have a 2000 Sport with 65K on it and have had NO problems!

Oh wait, the passenger side door trim is starting to peel off.. :)

THANKS for reminding me!

I took my side moldings off when my Jeep was but a pup. I've been sitting on them until my lease was over, in case I had to reinstall them for turn-in! The Jeep is now officially MINE, but I keep forgetting to toss the moldings.

Unless someone WANTS a set of wax-stained, sloppy-looking gray moldings for a 2000 2-door XJ... I think it looks SOOOOOO much better without...

Den

[JeepinAudiophile]

I Have a 2000 Limited, Tow Package, Heated seats, blah blah... I also had the rattle from below on the linkage, the left front speaker cut out on me a few days ago, the passenger window control is intermitent... if you mess with the driver switch, it will right itself, i plan on pulling it and cleaning the contacts. My heated driver seat is not working....ERRR i loved that damn thing in the winter. It sits normally until i press the button, then the button proceeds to blink at me for a few minutes- and NO heat. PS: I did kinda modify the switches....:doh:
I have it setup so that when i remote start my truck in "winter mode" (toggle switch) the heated seats come on, and the rear defroster and heated mirrors kick on. Oh well, i don't think that had anything to do with the failure, i believe it is the heating element in the seat, but have not had time to check it out.
You can see a picture of my 00' here: http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/data/500/5557PICT0006-med.JPG

[Talyn]

Our '01 has the full cast rotors, and aluminum wheels. Supposedly the full cast rotors are better at resisting warping than the composite rotors as found on my '97, but I found out through trial and error that it is more critical to properly torque the lug nuts to keep the rotor from warping. My '97 has steel wheels, which are more forgiving for zapping with the impact wrench until tight. Doing this on the '01 with aluminum wheels resulted in 2 sets of Mopar rotors getting warped with low mileage on them. When I put the 3rd set on (from NAPA,) I used a torque wrench to avoid over tightening them, and they are working out very well.


I did that with mine... used Napa cast rotors, torqued the lugnuts down to 90 ft/lbs. Still warped... Before the Napas I had a set of OE rotors, and a set of Pepboys rotors.. all warped with in 10k miles. My solution was to get some cyrotemperd, slotted, and crossdrilled rotors from Porterfield. I don't know which part did it, or if Porterfield just uses a premium rotor to begin with, but I haven't had a warped rotor in over 30k miles. And they show no wear.

-Chris

[biscuitboy87]

2000 sport 4.0 auto. Al wheels and bone stock. 65,000 miles so far.
i was hit hard awhile ago and after it was straightened out and new tail and fenders put on it...nothing to note. a little clunk when i go from reverse to drive (looking into a solution)...other than that everything works. compared to other cars/truck i drive the brakes suck, and it is a dog (always want more down low), but i love it. stock off road has been a real test and every time i am amazed even when stuck....fun.

[Talyn]

2000 sport 4.0 auto. Al wheels and bone stock. 65,000 miles so far.
i was hit hard awhile ago and after it was straightened out and new tail and fenders put on it...nothing to note. a little clunk when i go from reverse to drive (looking into a solution)...other than that everything works. compared to other cars/truck i drive the brakes suck, and it is a dog (always want more down low), but i love it. stock off road has been a real test and every time i am amazed even when stuck....fun.

Do you have the stock air box? My 2000 seemed like a dog compared to my 1991. Replaced teh Airbox with a 6x9 K&N and Rusty's airtube and it doesn't seem like a dog anymore.

-Chris

[Talyn]

BTW, there is a TSB for the TC shifter linkage rattle.

[Talyn]

the passenger window control is intermitent... if you mess with the driver switch, it will right itself, i plan on pulling it and cleaning the contacts. My heated driver seat is not working....

Cleaning the contacts won't do it. The problem is the window lockout switch. Had the same problem with my 2000.
And the problem with your heated seat is in the heating element itself. It is either shorted or open. That is what the blinking means. The light will illuminate in 1/2 second off, 1/2 second on pulses.

Now tell me how you changed the switches to make them come on with a signal from the remote start. I have remote start and owuld love to have the seats come on in the winter when I RS it.

BTW, you have my twin.

-Chris

[Talyn]

Time to list my problems. This is on a 2000 Limited, 4.0HO, AW4, 242, the same as a 2001:
-Heated seat switch not going into low. Replaced switch under warranty.
-TC wouldn't shift out of part time coming from full time to 2wd/ Dealer had it 3 times.. first two times no resolusioin. Second time I brought it in for the TC out put leaking. Don't know what else they did while replacing the seal, but it fixed it.
-Window lock out switch faulty, locked the passanger windows out even when disengaged. Switch replaced under warranty
-Rear hatch light switch broke. Replaced under warranty. Broke again 2 hours later. Replaced again and still works.
-In 4x4 full time I have a vibe from the front axle. They said it was normal. Vibe wasn't that bad so didn't do anythign about it. The LP axle is to blame for it. Changing it to a HP soon. Vibes worse than stock in full time with my lift.
-Warped rotors.... this has been the biggest problem of all. Tried several sets of rotors. One OE, one Pepboys, one full cast Napa, one Porterfield cryotempered, crossdrilled, and slotted rotors ($$$). All warped withi n 10k except the Porterfields.
-Water leak from cowl vent for HVAC. The foam around teh splash shield deteroiated and I had to pull teh air box to replace it and use some real sealant. Involved taking the dash apart and pivoting it to allow the heater box to be extracted. Real fun there.
-At 40k miles the left side steering knuckle ball joints needed to be replaced along with the pitman arm side TRE.
-Bushings in stock LCAs are too soft. Causes a near death wobble, wobble with 3.25" of lift around 50-65 mph. RE adjustable LCAs solved the problem.

I believe that is it.

-Chris

[BIGSLVRXJ]

Thanks for the help guys. He picked it up last night and it doesnt seem to have anything wrong with it. The rotors arent warped and the speakers all seem to work great! Those were the two most common ones I read about so Ill tell him to keep an eye on em. Thanks again.

[jneary]

the 2001 isnt any different in the long run. all vehicles jeeps or not have their quirks. it should be a decent vehicle as long as it has been properly maintained and not abused.

[Talyn]

the 2001 isnt any different in the long run. all vehicles jeeps or not have their quirks. it should be a decent vehicle as long as it has been properly maintained and not abused.

Yeah.. mine had/has some quirks that have been worked, but the suspension, tranny, transfer case and engine are bullet proof in stock form.

-Chris

[Ryan4x4XJ]

Both 2001s in my family (me and my brother), plus my friend have had AC problem around 67-80K

Rotors will warp

Get rid of those crappy stock tires

My glovebox raddles like crazy and it drives me crazy!

Not much else

[scoobyxj]

JeepGuy,

I bought my '01 Sport last October with 19,000 miles on it - I just turned 30,000 yesterday. Stock Sport setup - 4.0, p/t 4WD, steel wheels. Here have been my issues:

An annoying fuel evaporation problem in the injector #2 or #3. There has been a TSB on this, and ever since my last dealer visit it has been fine.

Speaker wires leave a lot to be desired. That is my next project. I lost the left drivers side speaker competely.

Occasional T-case rattle, but not major.

Brakes have been fine - no warping - yet.

Terrible gas mileage though. I am only getting about 13-15 mpg, but it probably has more to do with the lousy MTBE gas they sell in Chicago. In the winter I was between 18-20.

Occasionally I have indicator lights which go on like the airbag light and/or the MIL - these are a result of bad electrical connectors. Haven't gotten to the point where a firm bump to the dash does not fix it. I will need to deal with this soon though.

I am going in for my 30K service this weekend. So far, no leaks, squeaks or clunks. The car is fast, full of power, a little more comfortable than earlier models, and will likely meet my goal of 200,000 miles. They are still tanks and as long as you do not overpay for it, it will be a great investment.

I think there is a TSB on that but its just as easy to do your self. pull off the bezzel around the radio, remove the four screws on the dash trim. then remove the screws from the knee pice, and dash trim below the steering wheel, and the the screw from the side near the air vent there may be others just look to see. then remove the dash peice it will pull off the head light nob it just needs some motovation. remove the four screws from the insterment cluster and pull it out. clean the contacts with some contact cleaner and put it back together. that should take care of it. [PS. go to 4x4mods and get your self some cool colored face gages to put on while you have got it out].

mine is a 00 my T/C lever rattles a little, the pass. side window swich is tempermential, likes to lope a little when i first start it gose away after about 10 seconds [im not a crank and go driver so it dosnt bother me],and the driver side speaker is possesed. havent had any trouble out of the roters yet with 60k on her.

[casm]

Yeah.. mine had/has some quirks that have been worked, but the suspension, tranny, transfer case and engine are bullet proof in stock form.

I'm with you on everything but the suspension. Mine was OK from about 81,000 to roughly 89,000 miles, but after some middling desert/trail work, the rear springs are flat (I'm sitting on the bumpstops at the rear) and the front coils are clearly tired. Not surprisingly, it's a lot cheaper to replace the suspension components with aftermarket items than factory and gain some lift in the process - so the plan is to do that once the cash is there to do it. Just my $0.02.

[Bent]

Rotors will warpDont drive in OD except on the Freeway/Highway. When you exit or slow for a stop, shift back into third. This may seem like a PITA, but after awhile you won't even notice you're doing it. BTW, this assumes you have the AW4. I've gotten 20K mi. out of my OEM rotors since I had them turned and still no warping. Yet. The last 15,000 have been w/ 31's.
Everything else on my '01 has taken a beating without a wimper. Except maybe the seal on the LP D30, scheduled for swap too. :shiver:

[JeepinAudiophile]

Cleaning the contacts won't do it. The problem is the window lockout switch. Had the same problem with my 2000.
And the problem with your heated seat is in the heating element itself. It is either shorted or open. That is what the blinking means. The light will illuminate in 1/2 second off, 1/2 second on pulses.

Now tell me how you changed the switches to make them come on with a signal from the remote start. I have remote start and would love to have the seats come on in the winter when I RS it.

BTW, you have my twin.

-Chris
Well, i'll try and get some pictures of it and post them. Also, I have your twin XJ, and we've got the same b-day? do-do-do-do (invision the twilight zone)
I'll give you a little info now on th switch. I used a relay that is triggered off the remote start. This triggers two mini relays that i have soldered onto the board of the switches. You have to scratch the protective covering off the board in two places, then solder onto it. This acts as though the button has been pushed after the vehicle is started.
As for the heated seats; did you have to replace the element, or could the problem be fixed?

[Go Go]

I don't recall offhand, but it may be listed in your owners manual; if not, then it is definitely in the service manual. Someone may have posted it on oem tech before, so doing a search there may prove fruitful. I think is was somewhere around 80-90 ft-lbs, but don't quote me on that. Not responsible for loose nuts!

I replaced a tire recently and am getting ready to do a brake job. I recall 90 ft-lbs to be correct. You should always use a torque wrench on wheel nuts. My wife's camaro went through 2 sets of rotors in our first year of marriage. First time I think was deep water, second time was Walmart not using a torque wrench or properly trained mechanics.

[Go Go]

I Have a 2000 Limited, Tow Package, Heated seats, blah blah... I also had the rattle from below on the linkage, the left front speaker cut out on me a few days ago, the passenger window control is intermitent... if you mess with the driver switch, it will right itself, i plan on pulling it and cleaning the contacts. You can see a picture of my 00' here: http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/data/500/5557PICT0006-med.JPG

My passenger window cuts out as well. I've isolated it to the window lock button. If you wiggle it the light in the passsenger switch will turn back on and it will work again. I tried to replace the driverside control, but the jeep dealership gave me the wrong part. If anyone needs a new remote mirror control let me know. It is designed for remote mirrors without power windows. The power window remote mirror is one piece, stupid parts bastards should have known that. Of course I couldn't return it because special order parts are final.

[dogtired]

My passenger window cuts out as well. I've isolated it to the window lock button. If you wiggle it the light in the passsenger switch will turn back on and it will work again. I tried to replace the driverside control, but the jeep dealership gave me the wrong part. If anyone needs a new remote mirror control let me know. It is designed for remote mirrors without power windows. The power window remote mirror is one piece, stupid parts bastards should have known that. Of course I couldn't return it because special order parts are final.

If they gave you the wrong part, they should replace it with the right part regardless if it was special order or not... THEY screwed up not you, I'd talk to the manager, if I were you. That's lousy business.

Good Luck! :viking:

[Dave DE]

I have an '01 sport with tow package, abs, and automatic that I bought new. It has 30k miles now. No rotor warping problems, but I just had to replace the front pads. They were totally gone. I installed slotted rotors from tire rack when I replaced the pads. I replaced the stock radio and speakers shortly after I bought it, so I didn't have any opportunity to have radio problems. I've been getting 15-19 mpg, depending on how I drive.

A couple things to be aware of on the '01. First, they have mini-cats just downstream of the exhaust manifold in addition to the main cat. This makes it tough to put on headers. Also, I discoverd that my d35c rear end was not like other d35's when I tried to add an LSD. The ring gear bolts are larger size than a normal d35. Apparently, this was an attempt to make a 'super 35' by dana.

Hope that helps,

Dave

[Talyn]

A couple things to be aware of on the '01. First, they have mini-cats just downstream of the exhaust manifold in addition to the main cat. This makes it tough to put on headers. Also, I discoverd that my d35c rear end was not like other d35's when I tried to add an LSD. The ring gear bolts are larger size than a normal d35. Apparently, this was an attempt to make a 'super 35' by dana.

Dave

There are a few companies making headers for the 00-01 XJs with the precats. Someone on JU has just put a header in his 00.

As for teh D35.... what size were your bolts, and what is the typical D35 bolt? I wonder when they started doing that.

-Chris

[JeepinAudiophile]

I used the Banks header, it was a bit of a biatch to install- but it is a stout mo-fo...I'm gonna try and get a pic up of it.


http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/data/500/5557PICT0012.JPG

[scoobyxj]

i dont think i have thoughs pre cats ill have to look again just to make shure but i dont recall seeing them on my 00 i was just under the inpression that the new style of manafold which appears like a try "y" type desine was so much more free flowing that it wasnt worth replacing.

[Talyn]

What kind of gains did you get. feel from the header?

[JeepinAudiophile]

Well, i stepped up to 30's the same day as the header... and did my intake setup, headers, tires, Full Exhaust all in the same week. After all that with the 30's it feels pretty much like stock pickup... but i am going to ahve the rear section of my exhaust re-done. I think all my mods and 2.5" stainless piping have robbed my low-end tourque. So i plan to have them weld on flanges, and down-size to 2" from the muffler back. Plus it sounds ballsy, once i regear i think it's gonna rocket.

[Talyn]

Do you have a site for your XJ? Looks a bit like mine.

[dogtired]

i dont think i have thoughs pre cats ill have to look again just to make shure but i dont recall seeing them on my 00 i was just under the inpression that the new style of manafold which appears like a try "y" type desine was so much more free flowing that it wasnt worth replacing.

that's what I recall reading too... the cats were taken from a V-8 Grand Cherokee for the 2000's and 2001's, so there is no need for a aftermarket header or cat, because it is equivalently free flowing as any other aftermarket stuff.

:viking:

[DenLip]

mine is a 00 my T/C lever rattles a little, the pass. side window swich is tempermential, likes to lope a little when i first start it gose away after about 10 seconds [im not a crank and go driver so it dosnt bother me],and the driver side speaker is possesed. havent had any trouble out of the roters yet with 60k on her.

Man. I wish this topic hadn't come up. I guess I've had more problems than I remembered!!

My T/C was leaking from the rear seal right from the get-go (had the dealer
fix at around 3300 miles/1 month). Mine has a bit of a lumpy idle after a
cold start as well. Thankfully, I'm generally easy on brakes... and at 54k
mine are still stock pads all around, and no warp. No speaker problems...
but my stock speakers were replaced when she was essentially new - I
wonder if it's the speakers themselves that are the problem, rather than
wiring? My front diff is leaking a bit around the pinion, but I blame that
on the dealer overfilling it when I had the fluids changed back at 35k.
(After 20k of driving with the slow drip, the fluid STILL isn't down to the
"1/2-inch below the hole" that's recommended.)

Den

[JeepinAudiophile]

http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/data/500/5557PICT0181-med.JPG


http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/data/500/5557PICT01981-med.JPG

[Talyn]

Mine has a bit of a lumpy idle after a
cold start as well.

Den

There are several TSBs on the lumpy idle after start. two are for computer reprogram, and one insulates a fuel injector.

My bad idle after start apears to be getting worse and I am starting to notice some back firing.

-Chris

[biscuitboy87]

Do you have the stock air box? My 2000 seemed like a dog compared to my 1991. Replaced teh Airbox with a 6x9 K&N and Rusty's airtube and it doesn't seem like a dog anymore.

-Chris
yeah...a fipk kit is in order, and i will definately use the extra ooomph! i would like to do more to it, but i am currently restoring my 73 super jeep and i am finding it real hard to get NOS parts (amc or jeep) for it, and when i do they cost the arm and a leg...so xj will have to wait a year. thanks for the heads up though.
nim

[ChuckstrPT]

I've had my '01 for 4 months or so now. I also had the driver's door speaker out when I got it. It wound up being a bad wire from the connector just behind the trim on the left of drivers side foot well. Ran another wire and we've got reliable sound. I've for 74k on it now. Just replaced the stock shocks with an old set of RS9000's with very good results. My driver's side heated seat is out. After persuing it some, I think it is the element in the seat. Stealership wants $700 for new leather seat cover...no thanks. My butt isn't that cold yet. I actually think I may still have the original tires... and they are well worn. I whipped out the full size spare to replace what I thought was a slow leak, and it matched the other 4 tires?? Is it possible to get 70k out of stock tires?? They'll be replaced soon. My windows seem to be working fine for now. I've got a funny clunk, feels like tranny or U-joint, but it isn't consistent. Sometimes it kinda "thunks" when stopping, and sometimes it "thunks" when taking off. We seem to have plenty of pick up. I'm satisfied with the get up an go. I did replace the stock headlights with IPF units and have been very impressed, right up until I put Xenon HIDs in our Audi. THAT is Bright! But my fogs are just about useless now, which I guess is good.
Oh well, so far we're good with our '01 Limited. Hopefully tires in the next 4-6 months followed closely by a lift.
HTH

[Talyn]

My driver's side heated seat is out. After persuing it some, I think it is the element in the seat. Stealership wants $700 for new leather seat cover...no thanks. My butt isn't that cold yet.

If teh light on the button blinks, it is most likely teh element. If there is no light at all, it is probably with teh switch.. both High and Low modes don't work?



I've got a funny clunk, feels like tranny or U-joint, but it isn't consistent. Sometimes it kinda "thunks" when stopping, and sometimes it "thunks" when taking off.

That clunk is most likely the Slip yoke on teh back of the transfer case binding. Easy to fix... take it off, grease it and the splined shaft up and put it back on.

-Chris

[ChuckstrPT]

If teh light on the button blinks, it is most likely teh element. If there is no light at all, it is probably with teh switch.. both High and Low modes don't work?


That clunk is most likely the Slip yoke on teh back of the transfer case binding. Easy to fix... take it off, grease it and the splined shaft up and put it back on.

-Chris
The lights blinking. I can't quote the FSM, but I think it was the element that's out. Neither mode will work on the drivers seat heater.
I've not heard of the slip yoke binding issue. That sounds interesting. What causes this? :huh:

[Talyn]

I've not heard of the slip yoke binding issue. That sounds interesting. What causes this? :huh:

Lack of lube. I have heard it happen few times. Usually a decent thud from the rear on braking or take off. Getts worse, and gets really annoying. I have the same problem with my rear driveshaft. I have a SYE, soe teh slip joint thingy (what the heck is teh name of that on a driveshaft?) has been moved to the shaft.

[ChuckstrPT]

Lack of lube. I have heard it happen few times. Usually a decent thud from the rear on braking or take off. Getts worse, and gets really annoying. I have the same problem with my rear driveshaft. I have a SYE, soe teh slip joint thingy (what the heck is teh name of that on a driveshaft?) has been moved to the shaft.
So do I have to drop the driveshaft for this? or is there a nice little grease nipple under that rubber boot that looks like it is hose clamped on there??
Thanks!

[lazyxj]

A problem I have with my 2001 XJ is the low hanging cat converter. It hangs a good half-inch BELOW the XC crossmember.
When I do the exhaust, the converter will be replaced with a lower profile one. For now, I'm making a skid plate to cover it.
Dumb design