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5.0L stroker

Sephrion

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Missouri
ill probably go with 4.5 or 4.6 stroker kit when i get the money and the time, but im just wondering what the pros and cons of the 5.0 kit are over the smaller kits.... assuming price isnt a matter that is
 
Price IS an issue when it comes to the 5.0L stroker. It's more expensive than the others because it includes 4.0" bore custom forged pistons, Custom Cunningham rods, and a 4.06" offset-ground stroker crank.
The advantages of the 5.0 are obvious (more HP/TQ) but there IS a price to pay for the performance and that is long term reliability. The 4.0L block's cylinder walls are barely thick enough to accomodate a 0.125" overbore and even then, they need to be sonically checked to be sure of that. The cylinder walls that'll remain will be thin and prone to cracking / warping if the engine overheats. The bottom of the cylinder bores also need to be notched to clear the rod bolts of the offset-ground crank.
The simple fact of the matter is that the 4.0L engine was never designed to be expanded to 5.0L so I wouldn't go that far; 4.6L is sufficient enough.
 
What ever happened to the saying "Bigger is better?" :D


I would agree that a 4.6L should be fine unliss you are building a full out race motor and have lots of money.

AARON
 
Hey, I need to bring this back up. I was at the pull-a-part today talking w/ a guy that was pulling a 4.0 to build a stroker. I asked him "oh what one are you going to run 4.6 or 4.7." He came back with "well actually its going to be about a 5.2". So after I regained consciousness I asked him "how do you plan on doing that?" his reply was this "Well you can take a 4.2 crank, but you have to sleeve the cylinders (obviously) and you can run 318 rods and pistons" That was really as far as we got into that. So I have been researching online about this and maybe I just don't know how to type it out to get the results I want, but I want to do some research on this.

He seemed pretty intelligent, said he had built 3 of them so far, and he got the idea from someone else...so the info is out there. He also stated that it makes about 400 hp and 330 lbft of torque etc etc.

So my question is....Can anyone shed any sort of light on this?
 
He is full of crap. Despite sleeving it and the fact that the rod journal on the 258 crank (2.0955") is different from the 315 crank (2.125") the math just doesn't work. The 315's rod length is the same as the 4.0L at 6.123". Now, the problem with using the 4.0L rod with a 4.0L piston in a stroker application is that the piston will sit above the deck by about .2195". Now the next problem is with the 315 piston. It has a taller compression height. The 4.0L's is 1.592' and the 318's is 1.755". So using the 318 piston and rod with the 258 crank the piston would be sticking .3825" out of the top of the deck. And that is even if he did sleeve it or fixed the big end connecting rod issue.
 
He also stated that it makes about 400 hp and 330 lbft of torque etc etc
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How do you get that much air past one 1.92 intake value? In a head that was built before dirt was around. :)
 
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He also stated that it makes about 400 hp and 330 lbft of torque etc etc
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How do you get that much air past one 1.92 intake value? In a head that was built before dirt was around. :)

Forget the intake valve issue. A standard 4.6L stroker makes around 260-270 hp. So... 140 to 150 HP increase by gaining .4L. Right.
 
I did forget to mention that we obviously was going to get the head ported and shiot as well. Over the past few days I've been doing research and it really seems just impossible from your basepoint to do this...
 
- a factory 4.0 makes like 50 more ft/lbs than it does hp.
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That would be with a factory type cam. If your trying for anywere near 400 HP. You are going have to cam the hell out of even a 5.0. With that kind of cam you can forget about that little stump puller you have come to love. The torque curve would be moved way up in the RPM.
Fine for pure street racing or 1/4 miles with VERY deep gear. But if you sill want to do any SLOW type of offing I would look for a milder cam.
All this is IMO
 
- a factory 4.0 makes like 50 more ft/lbs than it does hp.
================================================
That would be with a factory type cam. If your trying for anywere near 400 HP. You are going have to cam the hell out of even a 5.0. With that kind of cam you can forget about that little stump puller you have come to love. The torque curve would be moved way up in the RPM.
Fine for pure street racing or 1/4 miles with VERY deep gear. But if you sill want to do any SLOW type of offing I would look for a milder cam.
All this is IMO

Not to mention adding forced induction to get that kind of power!
 
It'll be interesting to see what bro's 8.75:1 4.9l w/ rollercam puts down before boost(I'm thinking ~275hp/300lb-ft to the wheels).
 
It'll be interesting to see what bro's 8.75:1 4.9l w/ rollercam puts down before boost(I'm thinking ~275hp/300lb-ft to the wheels).

That sounds reasonable. 400hp and 330ft-lbs. just sounds stupid for an NA motor. Plus I would bet the torque could be closer to 450-475 if that guy wasn't full of it!
 
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