Is this all I need 4 a 10" lift

I want to put a 8" lift on my 96 but I don't know where to begin but I have an idea..........

I want to run 35s so 8" or more. I have Bushwaker Flares now so at least that's done. I know with that size tire the wimpy D30 has to go. I am thinking Dana 44. Out of what though??? Speakin of axles, the rear??? Does it need to go?? Probably....... I am thinkin Ford 9" or 8.8 or another Dana 44. But again out of what?? Pretend my uncle owns a huge junkyard. I also want lockers and 4.10s in both. Wow its sounds good to me so far. What about lifts. I like the Tomken 8" and was thinking of some ACOS's for another 1.5" in the front and the leafs can stay with a little block to give it another 1". As far as brakes and steering how much mods am I going to encounter? Steering box brace? that $300 stronger tie rod conversion? I know I will have to get a different rear drive shift and SYI but what about the front shaft?

Who has the answers or complete kit or a right up?
Thanks..........

Ok, first off, what makes you think you NEED a 8" lift for 35's, let alone a 10" lift? you can get by with like a 5.5/6". Also, almost ALL of this has been hasta .
SEARCH is your friend, your best friend, your ONLY friend. Don't betray your friend.
Search d44
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=147757
Search dana 44
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=147759

you are going to want to get bigger than 4.10's with 35's, go for 4.88s, get disc brakes, they can stop those meats.
and when ur done show us a pic of the beast alright :greensmok
TOUCHE!

yeah seriously... 4.10's and 35's, you must be crazy!

get to cheap to do a write up for you and all you will need is 3"

that's a lot more than i feel like touching right now, but one thing I will comment on is your gear choice. I run 4.88s with both 33s and 35s. It's perfect with 33s, I definitely wish for lower gears when I have the 35s on. Get 5.13s or 5.38s.

late 70s F100/150 axles are a great swap, the front HP D44 just requires extending the radius arms to a custom crossmember and a few other little things. the rear 9" is 31 spline and just needs the perches and shockmounts added.

smaller lift, 8" max for 35s.

steering box brace is a must. C-Rok one looks like the best thing going.

you'll need an SYE and rear driveshaft

I am running 6.5in lift from skyjacker and I run 33's EASILY(with some creative fender trimming) and will easily fit 35's once I have the $$$ to re-gear.

I have 35s, and I tried running my stock 4.10s. WONT WORK !!. I went with 5.38s and d44s. It runs better than it ever has.

And I have 5" of lift and have no probs with my 35s. Be sure and read some more, it will save you money.

tall lifts suck.

35's suck

I have 6" with 33's. You don't need 8-10"s of lift to run 35" I could run 35" right now, minus the gears but with a little trim on the front fenders, some trimming on the rear fenders and your done at 6" with 35's. A lift that tall you lose your center of gravity. And the steering is going out the window at that height. The C-Rok plate is a great upgrade, steering box brace. But at the height the Y steering set up isn't going to cut it and DW will be there at over 20mph. Go lower and lengthen your bump stops and your less likely to roll on the trail. Juice

juicexj24 said:

A lift that tall you lose your center of gravity.

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Where does it go?

It goes to Cuba I think. Smart A**. Juice

imma honky said:

Ok, first off, what makes you think you NEED a 8" lift for 35's, let alone a 10" lift? you can get by with like a 5.5/6". Also, almost ALL of this has been hasta .
SEARCH is your friend, your best friend, your ONLY friend. Don't betray your friend.
Search d44
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=147757
Search dana 44
http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=147759

Click to expand...

Good use of the new smiley, all this has been done and talked about. Do some searches and/or look at the links provided. You are getting ahead of yourself and down the road of big big $$$. You only need 5-8" to clear 35's and with your flares, you should easily be able to clear them with 5-6", like in the Rubicon Express 5.5 extreme duty kit. This is what the guy on Jeepin.com has on his red xj and it looks great. I have 8" skyjacker coils on an otherwise slightly bumped up re 5.5" kit and easily clear 35" mtrs with hacked fenders. Keep the center of gravity low and cut rather than lift to 10 inches. Get yourself a ford 8.8 or dana 44 for the rear and get 4.88 gears and lock both ends preferably an arb, ox trax in the front dana 30 and a arb, detroit, lock rite, etc in the back and you will be very happy with this setup. The rev dana 30 hold up very well with up to 35's, but you do need to be easy on it. Also I would carry some extra axle shafts & u-joints in case you do break something as this is what breaks most of the time. A front dana 44 is really $$$ and you are not gaining that much more over a rev dana 30 set up with 297 u-joints, 1 piece axles and TLC. Enough said.
Troy

I have 10" and 35's and i love it, but trust me you dont need 10". Stick with 8" and its better to mutt different kits, but you'll have to inquire within for more detail. 4.10's and you will HATE yourself. I run 4.88's and it's JUST enough. Go 5.13's and since it seems your gonna break the bank, go full size axles. I did my d44 rear and axleshafts and 297x joints in the d30 all my senior year of college. I have a 99 stock too to drive on the street but still use my 88 as a DD sometimes. Ill tell u this if i werent in college and needed it everyday i would have taken it off the road for a little while to do full size axles. With 5.13. I run Detroit outback now and its great but whatever you do, DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT.

xjrugger said:

but whatever you do, DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT.

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If that were possible, this board wouldn't exist. Guess what? There is an important learning curve here. You don't go from "I don't know a thing" to an 8" lift with 35's done perfectly. And even when your 8" lift is done perfectly you'll want to change it if you hang around long enough.

Put on a 3" lift and 31" tires and give it a year. Then come back and ask some questions. Just the suggestion that the D30 holds up great to 35" tires as long as you go easy on it (huh?) shows how much variability there is in your intended solution.

I think the D30 is a disaster with 35's if you put some road miles on it. The steering sucks, the ball joints lack durabilty, the housing flexes...

I also think that a 7-8" lift with 35's can be better optimized from a suspension point of view than a 5-6" lift *if* you are willing to put the time and money into it, and that the minor increase in COG is easily offset with a wider track (when you put on heavier duty axles) and optimized suspension design (we are way past "bolt-on" here).

But if you really want to do it once and do it right, buy a 2wd XJ and dump everything from the transmission back. Atlas II, high pinion rear D60 (like Tera 60R), high pinion front 44 with ALL the goodies, custom designed suspension front and rear...and the list goes on...

Nay

Nay said:

There is an important learning curve here. You don't go from "I don't know a thing" to an 8" lift with 35's... Put on a 3" lift and 31" tires and give it a year. Then come back and ask some questions.

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I agree with Nay 100%. The learning that accompanies a gradual buildup (both mechanical ability and driving skill) is well worth the extra expense that comes with periodic upgrades. You gotta learn to walk before you can run.

I wheeled stock, then @ 2.5" on 31's, 4" on 31's, 5.5" on 32's, and now sit at 8" on 35's. I wouldn't have done it any other way, having built it myself with various commercial parts, modified stock bits, and custom gadgets. I earned a BS in Mechanical Engineering and a PhD in Jeepology in the process.

Just slow down and learn from the vast combined knowledge available on .

I agree with all above. I starte with 30" 3" lift, 4" 31" and 5" 31" 6.5" 33". Parts from many companies until I got it right, or at least were, oh the itch never stops but the set up I have works after many years off getting figured out. crawl to learn how to walk. No one starts playing golf as good as Tiger or Phil. So practice and learn. Juice

Couldn't agree with the last 3 posts more. Being able to drive the rig you got is much better than having a great rig and not being able to do anything with it or worse, get yourself into trouble very quickly because you can't handle what it can do. Though I'd maybe jump a step or two from stock or 31s and start with a good 4.5" lift, 33s, and a rear locker (leave the front open to save the poor 30), and regear to 4.56s. Good gear for 33s but still adequate if you decide to add onto the lift and go to 35s in the near future. But 33s, good flex, rear locker, and good gearing will take you so much farther than you would ever expect. We did this on a buddy's XJ who had never wheeled before (though he is a great instinctive driver in no matter what you put him in) and he was actually pretty bored on the first trailride he went on. The Jeep just crawled over everything he pointed it at.

I did the stock thing, 3" and 31s, 4.5" lift and 32s, 6" and 33s, 8" and 36s and now mucho fender trimming around 9" of lift and 38s. The Jeep looks SO sweet with all the lift and 38s but I kind of wish it was lower. I wouldn't let just anyone drive it because it is a lot of Jeep to handle and if you don't know what you are doing, you'd be on your side or top in no time.

Good luck with whatever road you choose though.

I did the curve too and i started in 1997 with a 2.5 inch lift and 31's, then went to 5.5 and then 33's then 4.10, then 6.5, then 7.5, then 10, then the bigger axles, gears, lockers 35's and and and. Yes its good to go through the curve b/c when i was a teenager, if i had a jeep built right on 35's i would have ruined it. NO Doubt. But with all the euipment out there today, why tell him to start with 3 inch and 31's. Why not just go to a 6 inch that's bulit to go to 8 inches. And maybe some used 33's and when they wear out go to 35's. I say do it once, do it right b/c if i did it again i would have the jeep off the road for a few months and would have a sick bast*rd of a rig once i finally got it back on. My buddy just did it with the k5 he built and although i could have cured rickets in the time it took, it came out awesome. Just my .02. Why do a 3 inch, so u have to throw that hardware away or sell it for cheap, cmon atleast start somewhere you can easily continue with.