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ARGH!!!! Trying to remove rear leafs

X

XJ91

NAXJA Forum User
Location
G'Nagiwanka
:doh: I thought I busted the weld of the pass side leaf front bolt. :flamemad: So I deside to find the best spot inside under the rear seat to cut and see what I can do.

To my amazement the weld was not busted but the bolt is stripped in the nut and just turning and turning. :banghead:

Here's what I thought of doing.......
Take a sawzall and cut the bolt closest to thr frame rail right between the bushing and frame, then drill out the stripped peice left over....
Does that sound like a plan?

The drivers side leaf front bolt wont even budge. :banghead: All others are done.

Also, What is the best way to fix a busted rear shock mount bolt?

Grind off the remaining and find something simular? or would the stealer sell the actual bolt?
 
I had the same hassle on mine... I ended up cutting the bolt between the outer side bushing and the spring hanger, then pried the spring downwards and away from the rail/nut. Used about 5 sawzall blades and 10 years worth of cussing.

I cooked up a crossmember to avoid reusing the shock mounts.
 
Dude, don't do that with your spring bolt!! Get yourself a pickle fork (tie rod end removal tool), hammer that sucker in between the head of the bolt and the spring pivot bolt bracket and apply pressure as you try to remove the bolt (air tools are preferable at this point). You'll get it out, and hopefully your bolt is what is stripped, not the welded nut on the inside of the uni-body. The same thing happened to me on my old XJ and the bolt came out smooth as a baby's butt, but the welded nut was in good shape. Let us know how it goes. HTH

MIke
 
MDMIKE said:
Dude, don't do that with your spring bolt!! Get yourself a pickle fork (tie rod end removal tool), hammer that sucker in between the head of the bolt and the spring pivot bolt bracket and apply pressure as you try to remove the bolt (air tools are preferable at this point). You'll get it out, and hopefully your bolt is what is stripped, not the welded nut on the inside of the uni-body. The same thing happened to me on my old XJ and the bolt came out smooth as a baby's butt, but the welded nut was in good shape. Let us know how it goes. HTH

MIke
Click to expand...

I uderstand your method.
I tried but using the biggest screwdriver that I have. Looks like I'm off to the nearest auto shop to pick up a pickle fork. But my problem is, I've ony got hand tools.

My neighbour lent me his electric hammer wrench, the bolts didn't even budge, not even the stripped one.
 
I went through exactly what you are going through. Spent way too many nights in the drive way. When my shock mounts broke, I used my dremel and cut an access hole above both mounts. Then riveted a patch over it, after I installed a set of bar-pin eliminators. Grade 8 bolts also.
When I did my new leaf springs (OME) same thing with the stuck bolts, and one weld- nut broke. I used my sawzall and cut the bolts. One bolt was stuck in the sleeve, so I left as much of the original bolt in the nut end and cut it, pulled out the leaf, ground down two sides of the bolt nub and used a pair of vise grips to grab the nut, and got it out weld-nut intact. The other side broke almost as soon as I put a wrench to it. Cut out the spring as before, pulled back the carpet and cut another small access hole to fish out the old nut and install a new one. Most important... Measure twice, cut once. Measure 5 times if you have to. As far as the patch... I used a surplus military ammo can. Its very heavy gauge steel. Take your time and good luck!
 
Went out a bought a Pickle Fork, that did not help...

Took a good look at what's going on and the sleeve of the bushing is rusted to the bolt. Looking at the nut in the frame, it does not turn so the weld is still good. The bolt has backed out enough to be fully un threaded from the nut (so it is not stripped).

the only way I can see getting it out is to cut the bolt close to the frame and then cut it right at the head, this way the spring will drop from it's possition.

Now the front bolt for the drivers side leaf is ceased on pretty good. I've been spraying for two weeks and the last two days every so often torch the hell out of it. It still wont budge.

Why did I start this? :twak:
 
Man, I just put my lift on a few weeks ago. Same problems, the Jeep bolts for the leaves have a locking substance on them. PITA to remove them with a socket. I just bought a new box of sawzall blades, cut em all out and got new bolts.
 
XJ91 said:
Went out a bought a Pickle Fork, that did not help...

Took a good look at what's going on and the sleeve of the bushing is rusted to the bolt. Looking at the nut in the frame, it does not turn so the weld is still good. The bolt has backed out enough to be fully un threaded from the nut (so it is not stripped).

the only way I can see getting it out is to cut the bolt close to the frame and then cut it right at the head, this way the spring will drop from it's possition.

Now the front bolt for the drivers side leaf is ceased on pretty good. I've been spraying for two weeks and the last two days every so often torch the hell out of it. It still wont budge.

Why did I start this? :twak:
Click to expand...
When you get new bolts, best place is a dealer. The stock bolts are 14mm. Obviously, with a nut welded into the frame you have to use that size for the front bolt. For the rear (shackle) bolts, I've been able to use a 9/16" bolt with lots of anti-sieze and lubricant to help it slide through the sleeve in the bushing.
 
join the club... 5 days in the driveway for me. getting the bolt out the nut off, and getting it all back together....
 
Actually you are pretty lucky that the nut inside the frame is still intact. The trick is to get a thin cut abrasive cut off blade, put it in a angle grinder, slip it up between the spring and the bracket and slice the bolt, if necessary on both sides. It gets bad when you break the nut loose inside the frame. But you should be fine. What you are describing is a very common occurance in changing old rear springs.
 
Day two has come to an end...

Got one leaf off, had to cut the bolt in two places to get the leaf out(went through 4 sawzall blades).
Only to find that the welded nut is stripped. :doh:
I'm thinking of going to Brafasco and see if I can get a new nut and bolt that is half an inch longer and since I already have the inside floor cut open just feed the new bolt through the stripped nut and add the new nut to the end.

There isn't enough nut left to re-thread.
 
Sounds like a plan. Maybe drill out the old nut so the new bolt clears easily.
 
Somebody give me a BFH....

Nightmare never ends.....

The U-Bolts are too big for the original plate.... They must be for a D44.. :gonnablow
 
Im also installing new leafs and shackles damn thier tight. havn't alot of trouble with were the shackle mounts. i mtaking entire shackle off as well since iv got new shackles in combination with the new leafs. iv got like a 3foot cheater bar pushing on it and its still tight.
 
Re: Somebody give me a BFH....

XJ91 said:
Nightmare never ends.....

The U-Bolts are too big for the original plate.... They must be for a D44.. :gonnablow
Click to expand...
Make sure you have the plate turned the right way... the curved parts go front and back not inside and outside. You probably know that but just thought I'd mention it.
You mentioned Brafasco, where are you located?
-Brian
 
Re: Somebody give me a BFH....

PuckNuts said:
Make sure you have the plate turned the right way... the curved parts go front and back not inside and outside. You probably know that but just thought I'd mention it.
You mentioned Brafasco, where are you located?
-Brian
Click to expand...

Etobicoke...There is one open in Concord and Rexdale on Sat, so I'll be there as they open the doors.

I put them up against the original U-Bolts and they are half inch wider, then put them up against the plate and yea they won't meet the holes. I'll have to pick up a set at CTC tomorrow.
 
Wow, and I thought my lift install went bad, I only had 1 broken bolt at the rear shock, found the 2 smaller leafs had cracks in them, on both sides, so I repaced them, the front went easy and nothing gave me grief, so lucky I am especially on a '94 I did a RE3.5" with add a leaf, but I found the rear is not upto the height of the front, so I am going to put some blocks in and that is that....LOL

Good luck buddy I am in Hamilton, so if you need any info pvt me and we can chat....

GQ
 
I couldn't get mine to come out either, so I had to get blocks untill I have time to mess with it. I think I'm going to cut them off and drill all the way through the rail and washer/nut the other side of a new bolt. sound ok? I'd rather not cut a hole in my floor. These things are a piece!!!
Codeman
 
you know after all the sawzaw blades wasted and the time and efert wasted it would have been cheeper to go and buy a electeric or and air impact .. the way i removed mine was a torch and an air gun... no problems here....

but i still replaced the bolts.... :)
 
Man i thought mine went bad with only a TAP broke off in a rear shock mount! drove it six months like that before i got it out. your guy's instals make mine sound like a wet dreem!
 
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