Does it pop at start up? If it does, it´s pretty much a classic symptom of a cracked exhaust manifold, pretty common. With a cold motor (and blocks behind the wheels), I have someone start it up, and feel around the joints for a crack (you can feel it puff), until it gets too hot to fool with (which happens fast).
Mine doesn´t surge at start up nearly as bad, as it used to (still hits 1500 or so). A TPS adjustment, a O2 sensor replacement helped and cleaning the IAC. Now I have to remember, not to touch the pedal at start-up, doesn´t need it anymore, since the IAC cleaning (mine was stuck shut).
Mine had a loss of power/hestitantion/flat spot, at higher RPM´s (above 2000), a hesitantion when accelarating and would hunt at idle (up and down), O2 sensor relieved most of these problems and helped with the start up surge (also helped it, to start with fewer revolutions, in combination with the TPS adjustment).
I also removed and cleaned my IAC and the seat in the throttle body. Avoid solvents when cleaning the IAC. Leave the piston alone, just clean what you can see,a finger nail and a little light oil works. The seat in the throttle body, can be cleaned with a toothbrush and some solvent. Most guys recommend, removing the throttle body, the TPS and IAC from the throttle body, and then doing a serious scrubbing. This methode takes a new gasket and a TPS adjustment.
The 7-10 revolution thing, is a fairly standard problem (usually worse in winter). Often a combination of things, the better the battery and cable connections, the faster it turns over (needs a couple hundred RPM´s to get a good pulse/index from the CPS), Basic tune up stuff (plugs/cap), and letting the fuel pump work for a 10-15 seconds or so with the key in the run possition, before trying to start. The check valve, in the pump. sometimes allows the pressure in the fuel rails to bleed down. Letting the pump run a bit before start-up helps.
Hope I´ve helped some, with my findings and things I´ve picked up on the forum.
