View Full Version : 4.88 or 4.56?
Neil
April 29th, 2003, 08:30
I was thinking about going to 4.88's and some people are telling me that the most that they would go is 4.56 due to the pinion size on the d30. Is this really a problem? This rig is a DD too.:confused:
bradlyw
April 29th, 2003, 12:03
you'll find some people saying its a problem and some not. i heard a few people who broke 4.88's in the d30 when they first became available, but i havent heard of anything lately. thats what i'm doing and i'm not giveing it a second thought.
Brad
watson
April 29th, 2003, 12:12
I know of a guy who trashed his 30 because of 4.88s. Not enough tooth mesh. I had 4.56s in my 30 and it took the shop a LONG time to get it set up correctly. They didn't recommend anything more than 4.10s on a 30. Then again, look at little CJ-2 and 3s. They have a tiny D25 or something like that with 5.38s. I'd stick to 4.56s though on a DD anyway. I ran a similar set-up as you only I had an HO motor. 93 4.0, auto, 35 BFGs and I was happy with 4.56s as a DD. I run 36 TSLs now and use mine primarily as a trailrig but the 4.56s still do fine. I'd go with 4.56s and play with the motor to get a little more power. Just my 2 cents.
dave
April 29th, 2003, 12:33
i have 4.56s and an LT1... the engine tachs up REAL quick on the street.. i miss having a first gear.. i wish for 4.10s.. ...
ChuckD
April 29th, 2003, 12:57
You'll be jumping from 3.55 to 4.56 , 29% difference. Also your adding the Frt Locker.
When I'm ready to go 35's or your ready to do a Frt D44. I'll take your 4.56/ARB D30 off your hands. Then everything will work out just fine.
Beezil
April 29th, 2003, 12:59
"not enough tooth mesh".....
have you seen these two gearsets on a meshed on a table and compared the amount of surface area in the mesh?
its indistinguishable......
Neil
April 29th, 2003, 13:07
Any body knbow what the engine tach's at 70 with 35's and 4.56's? Oh yea add an auto into that too.
ChuckD
April 29th, 2003, 14:15
Hey Neil, numerically 4.56 should put you at stock gearing and 28" tires. Now if you account for the the extra height, tire drag, and wind resistance then your undergeared. As far as the trail is concerned you'll be fine. With 4.88, you would have to run a 38.5" tire to have equal to stock gearing. Which would make a killer crawl ratio, with out a crawler case.
Basically your trying to figure out your on-road day to day driving. When it comes to the crawling, I like to be on the conservative side and play it safe. I would choose the 4.56, then look into a crawler TC.
Neil
April 29th, 2003, 15:06
You just want me to be at 4.56 so I'll give you my d30arb when I go to a d44 :) Don't worry I think that the 4.56 is looking good anyway. Do you know what Rob went to? I think that 4.56 with a Clune would be great, then I wake up ;) What do you think about the spool in the rear and the arb in front? should I save my money and go for dual arb's? The first one I can do in about 2 weeks the second I will have to wait about 6 weeks. Also I need a good place to relocate my battery to make room for my oba.
Beezil
April 29th, 2003, 15:09
just for the sake of argument, I run 5.13's with 35" tires...
Neil
April 29th, 2003, 15:18
If you ran 5.13's and a Clune would you be able to see your Jeep move?
Beezil
April 29th, 2003, 15:26
who needs a jeep to move when you have the internet!
http://users.rcn.com/beezil/public/mostkeyboard.jpg
Jes
April 29th, 2003, 15:32
:D
BTW, I can tell you that you really don't want 4.11s with an auto and 33" tires. ;)
Jes
woody
April 29th, 2003, 16:29
You don't want 33" and 3.55 either I spent eleven hours Saturday in mine on a road trip. I have to manually lock my convertor too, which helps hold 3rd (reminds me of an old split-shift truck)
Neil
April 29th, 2003, 18:04
I'm running 3.55 and 35's! Seems to do ok, I say ok because on the road I have lost the use of 4th gear and off the road any throttle application equals tire spin. Kind of hard in the snow. should be lots of fun in the mud :)
Beezil
April 30th, 2003, 04:07
that is NOT a good thing....
"seems to do okay" is what everyone says, because they can't see whats really happening.....
losing 4th gear is not as bad as losing the ability to lock-up.....
this is creating a lot more heat, and heat kills trannies....
get those gears neil!
Neil
April 30th, 2003, 07:10
I am ordering them on Friday. Hope to have them in by Wed.
bgcntry72
April 30th, 2003, 08:42
I run 3.55's on 30" MTRs and I still swim all around 4th gear on the highway. The truck is still plenty strong for the average Jumpin' Jesus on a Pogo Stick, but I like a little more sugar in my bowl. I plan on 4.10's as next move. People post all the time about running their new 35's with stock 3.55's or even (gasp) 3.07's. Just because you cant see or hear a problem does not mean you are fine. Your AW-4s are screaming people, only you can't hear them because you don't have the ability to talk to them like Dr. DooBeezil. Letting your auto compensate for your lack of proper gearing is a short road to trouble. I feel the same about overgearing. 4.56 is plenty for a daily driver with 35's.
:next:
jalehman
April 30th, 2003, 08:55
I'm running 4.56s and 35"s and it does fine. I can cruise at 75mph all day long. I've kept the weight of the rig down though. Seems to be the guys who complain about the 4.56s are the ones who add 1/4" armor everywhere and carry 500#s of gear in the back. Maybe a big block is in order for these guys.
offroadman83
April 30th, 2003, 09:39
Just to back up Beezil I run 4.56s with 31s and I can still highway drive fine and the Jeep is great offroad. I love my gearing and when I get 35s I am going to miss the extra gearing. That is why i am saving up for a new front diff so I can run 5.13s like Beezil.
Phil
January 1st, 2004, 12:35
BTT for this one. Who has personally broken 4.88s? Who is running, or has run, 4.88s in an HP D30?
Lincoln
January 1st, 2004, 14:09
Just go with the 4.88's. Unless your awfully liberal with the throttle you shouldn't ever have a problem. Stock rpm's mean nothing when you go from 28" tires to 33" or bigger then add lift to clear them. I don't have any personal experience with 4.88's yet, but there is a set on the bench waiting to be put in my dad's rig.
Here's another example. My buddy with the toy runs 5.71's, 38's to 44's, dual transfer cases. Final bottom low is a little of 200:1. Granted this is behind a 4 cyl but that is a bunch of gear reduction. The pinion on those gears is not much larger than a quarter and the 4.88's for a 30 look to be a least 20-30% larger. It's so small that his gear vendor (long time, but I think it was Richmond) at the time refused to sell them to him because there was no way they would last more than a week. About three years ago the rear end finally let go and that was 10 years after the original setup. The fronts have never been touched. That was ten years of daily driving and weekly wheeling.
He still get's the blunt of my blame for me buying 4.10's when I had 32's. He should have beat me with a stick to get his point accross. I was too busy thinking RPM's, stock, etc. :looser: That was long before NAXJA and 4.88's existed. I'm still thinking 5.38's and 35's are the ticket.
Lincoln
XJHOX
January 1st, 2004, 14:20
I have 35s and 4:56s (auto) in my daily driver. Everyday I drive it I kick myself in the a$$ for not going to 4:88s. Just do the 88s so you dont spend the money twice.
mbryson
January 1st, 2004, 14:36
"not enough tooth mesh".....
have you seen these two gearsets on a meshed on a table and compared the amount of surface area in the mesh?
its indistinguishable......
Spoken with the voice of experience.....(I too run 4.88's.... Cry 'bu!!sh!t on the pinion issues)
BTT for this one. Who has personally broken 4.88s? Who is running, or has run, 4.88s in an HP D30?
Running them with 35" MT/R's and 180K on the odometer. They are fine as far as an actual gearset (I think mine are Sierra brand if I remember correctly). The D30 is kind of a seperate issue (I'm on my second housing due to the first being bent)......... I searched as many boards as I possibly could to find any pinion issues when I bought my gears. I didn't find anything substantial enough NOT to buy the 4.88 over the 4.56. I like the 4.88 as my engine is TIRED. Let's me cruise at 70 or so even at 5400 ft. without a lot of RPM......(I'm still getting 16-17 mpg on the open road)
XJZ
January 1st, 2004, 15:16
.....Dr. DooBeezil? .....to back up Beezil?
OK, I'll be the 3rd. 'Mo out of the closet.........Beezil, you're so sexy!...There,...I said it...
anyone else? ;)
JnJ
January 1st, 2004, 15:21
I'm running 4.88s and 35s, wish I went lower (5.??). 4.56s with 35s will be a dog in my opinion.
Phil
January 1st, 2004, 15:47
Ok, I guess it's time to build a 44 rear and go for 4.88s. Oh darn.:D
Replacing the D30 with something better is not going to happen now, or I probably would go lower. Oh yeah, I've got 35" MT/Rs and I'm right around 165K on my odometer.
MudDawg
January 1st, 2004, 16:01
The 4.88's should work out ok of you have a O.D. trans..My trans has a 1:1 high gear...the motor turns about 3,500 at 70mph...
Mrburns
January 1st, 2004, 16:29
I had a manual HO YJ on 33's with 456's LOVED it....now i have a auto XJ on 35's with 456s and wouldn't change a thing...(except to a V8).... never had a problem...i'd say with an auto stick to the lower 456s...just to save wear on the engine and trany....488s is alot of gear with no overdrive....
Otherside of the coin....my buddy runs a TJ with 488s and 35s (manual) and say its great.....but i think he wishes he would have gone with 456s....because he was forced to move upto 35s just to lower the RPM...and get OK-esh mileage.....
Jes
January 1st, 2004, 16:42
I had a manual HO YJ on 33's with 456's LOVED it....now i have a auto XJ on 35's with 456s and wouldn't change a thing...(except to a V8).... never had a problem...i'd say with an auto stick to the lower 456s...just to save wear on the engine and trany....488s is alot of gear with no overdrive....
Otherside of the coin....my buddy runs a TJ with 488s and 35s (manual) and say its great.....but i think he wishes he would have gone with 456s....because he was forced to move upto 35s just to lower the RPM...and get OK-esh mileage.....
AW4s have an overdrive that's the same or slightly taller than an AX15, AX5, or BA10.
Jes
Neil
January 1st, 2004, 22:09
I have seen that randy's is carrying 5:38's for the D 30. Has anyone heard anything about these? I had planned on regearing a long time ago but it didn't work out. This rig sees very little freeway time, and may even be retired to a trail rig soon. I have the aw-4 so I have the o/d and I plan to stay with at least 35's. Any thoughts? TIA Neil
Mrburns
January 1st, 2004, 22:13
wow....thats some low gears....
Let me know how they workout....like maybe a 2wk and 6month review...??
XJoachim
January 1st, 2004, 22:27
I have seen that randy's is carrying 5:38's for the D 30. Has anyone heard anything about these? I had planned on regearing a long time ago but it didn't work out. This rig sees very little freeway time, and may even be retired to a trail rig soon. I have the aw-4 so I have the o/d and I plan to stay with at least 35's. Any thoughts? TIA Neil
Beware, that is for a standard cut D30 and will not fit a HP D30.
I ran 4.56 and 35s for over 2 years as a DD and wished i had lower gears. On the other side i broke 2 sets of gears while wheeling with my 38.5 SXs. Now i have 5.86 with 37s and they're great.
Neil
January 1st, 2004, 22:42
Randy's specifies standard and reverse cut for the 5:38's
basalt51
January 1st, 2004, 23:56
Phil - There's a guy in Vacaville that has two 44's. One from a MJ and one from a XJ. Think he was asking $450. Each had LS and about 150K miles. search the forsale forum.
Phil
January 2nd, 2004, 00:29
Phil - There's a guy in Vacaville that has two 44's. One from a MJ and one from a XJ. Think he was asking $450. Each had LS and about 150K miles. search the forsale forum.
I saw it the other day, I think I was just hoping for something a little bit cheaper. I don't think the LS really matters for me, don't I need a low gear carrier? I think when I do it I'll go full case locker, I think Detroit. MJ axle would be nice though, no cutting off mounts and perches, just weld on the new. Jeez, I think to much. I need to just do.
Sounds like 4.88s in a D30 aren't really a problem after all? Aside from it being a D30.
Çrestfa||en
January 2nd, 2004, 00:33
I'm gunna go with 4.56s with 29inch tires. I hated losing just the tiny amount of torque when I went to 235s and running 3.55s.
XJWheelie
January 2nd, 2004, 06:52
I'm moving up to 33" MT/Rs so I'm following this discussion pretty closely. What is the general consensus for 33s? I doubt that I'll ever move up to 35s as I'm in a wheelchair and there's a limit somewhere to what I can climb into.
On a related note try this link.
http://www.ring-pinion.com/calculators/calculatorsind.html
The calculator doesn't work out quite correctly to real world, but at least you can compare what you've got to what you'll have when you're through.
XJZ
January 2nd, 2004, 08:30
I'm moving up to 33" MT/Rs so I'm following this discussion pretty closely. What is the general consensus for 33s? I doubt that I'll ever move up to 35s as I'm in a wheelchair and there's a limit somewhere to what I can climb into.
On a related note try this link.
http://www.ring-pinion.com/calculators/calculatorsind.html
The calculator doesn't work out quite correctly to real world, but at least you can compare what you've got to what you'll have when you're through.
I run 4.56's w. 33's w. the AW4 and think it works great, but I'd also seriously consider 4.88's. Depends on what you want, more bottom end/trail or top end/hwy. If you do alot of road trips and especially if your t-case is geared lower than stock, go 4.56, if low end is more important go 4.88, some might say go even lower...here...check this out.... http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgdynamo.exe?HTNAME=tech_corner/gear_ratio.html&UID=2003080806361105 Hope it helps!!
TRL WGN 1
January 2nd, 2004, 09:54
Well, when talking gearing, all anyone ever talks about is tire size and gear ratio. Well, you also need to take into account tire type and engine output. My non-ho 4.0 with 32" Swampers and 4.10's is a dog. Mostly because Swampers are heavy and drag horribly. Can't wait to go up in tire size, as I will loose 4th gear again.
If it was me, I wouldn't even think about 4.56's for 35's. But, I would be running Bias Swampers. With the extra height, weight, and drag, I would go 4.88.
This is merely my opinion, so take it or leave it.
Mojo Troll
January 2nd, 2004, 18:06
TRL just brought up a great point. Engine output, tranny/transfer case gearing, tire weight, drag, type of driving etc... all have to be considered for regearing, not just tire hieght.
I have a freshly rebuilt non HO with a header and freeflow exhaust (still not close to a HO motors power), AW4, 4:56's and 33" Swampers. It's a total pig, mostly used for trail. When I do drive pavement, I have to manually shift through the gears to accelarate onto the hwy. Only to down shift to pull all but the slightest of hills. Swampers are great for offroad but suck on the pavement.
Theres a huge difference in the rotational wieght of a 6 ply tire (especially one loaded with mud). We'll save what those monster heavy tires do to brakes for another thread. Just fuel for thought.
Phil
January 2nd, 2004, 20:31
Good point, I'm running a stock 4.0L/AW-4/231, with 35" MT/Rs. 4.88s should be pretty nice.
red87cherokee
January 2nd, 2004, 22:29
Just to back up Beezil I run 4.56s with 31s and I can still highway drive fine and the Jeep is great offroad. I love my gearing and when I get 35s I am going to miss the extra gearing. I just installed 4.88's and lockers (Detroit and Lockright) in the Fall and I ran 31's for several months before putting on my old 235/75R15's studded snow tires - 35's are going on in the spring. And I absolutely agree that I'm going to miss the extra gearing. Unless you need to fly down the freeway at 90 MPH, any tires larger than 31's NEED 4.88's at the very least!
basalt51
January 6th, 2004, 15:08
Well after trying many combinations on Randy's calculator and many others I think 5.12 are the way to go. I have the aw-4 auto and I drive 120+ miles per day. With 34.5" tires here are my calcs:
To Calculate RPM If Rear End Ratio Is Known:
Rear End Ratio: 5.13
@ Desired MPH: 75
Tire Diameter (Height) in Inches: 34.5
Overdrive Ratio (1 for no OD): .69
RPM at Given MPH: 2586
To Calculate RPM If Rear End Ratio Is Known:
Rear End Ratio: 5.13
@ Desired MPH: 75
Tire Diameter (Height) in Inches: 34.5
Overdrive Ratio (1 for no OD): .69
RPM at Given MPH: 2460
Not a big difference, but if you then calc at 65 mph:
To Calculate RPM If Rear End Ratio Is Known:
Rear End Ratio: 4.88
@ Desired MPH: 65
Tire Diameter (Height) in Inches: 34.5
Overdrive Ratio (1 for no OD): .69
RPM at Given MPH: 2132
The RPMs are getting awefully low in OD; It'll be shifting into drive all the time at any small hills withthe 4.88s. Hell, if I was planning on cruising at 65 all the time I would want 5.29s+.
Whats the deepest gear you can run in a Ford 9"? Maybe that will be the decision maker for me.
EDIT: Looks like 6.50 - that doesn't help at all :(
mbryson
January 6th, 2004, 15:43
Well after trying many combinations on Randy's calculator and many others I think 5.12 are the way to go. I have the aw-4 auto and I drive 120+ miles per day. With 34.5" tires here are my calcs:
To Calculate RPM If Rear End Ratio Is Known:
Rear End Ratio: 5.13
@ Desired MPH: 75
Tire Diameter (Height) in Inches: 34.5
Overdrive Ratio (1 for no OD): .69
RPM at Given MPH: 2586
To Calculate RPM If Rear End Ratio Is Known:
Rear End Ratio: 5.13
@ Desired MPH: 75
Tire Diameter (Height) in Inches: 34.5
Overdrive Ratio (1 for no OD): .69
RPM at Given MPH: 2460
Not a big difference, but if you then calc at 65 mph:
To Calculate RPM If Rear End Ratio Is Known:
Rear End Ratio: 4.88
@ Desired MPH: 65
Tire Diameter (Height) in Inches: 34.5
Overdrive Ratio (1 for no OD): .69
RPM at Given MPH: 2132
The RPMs are getting awefully low in OD; It'll be shifting into drive all the time at any small hills withthe 4.88s. Hell, if I was planning on cruising at 65 all the time I would want 5.29s+.
Whats the deepest gear you can run in a Ford 9"? Maybe that will be the decision maker for me.
EDIT: Looks like 6.50 - that doesn't help at all :(
I know the math works out, but I have 4.88's and 35" MT/R's (whatever they measure). For arguments sake, let's say they are 34.5. I live at 5400 ft. and take hills quite a bit. The 4.88 is plenty of gear (I do have a TIRED motor with 180K and more vertical than it should have had) and when I'm on the flat, I'd like to have 4.56.
I do not stay in OD on hills as I'm climbing from 5400 ft. to about 8000-9000 on most 'common' highways.
basalt51
January 6th, 2004, 17:23
I know the math works out, but I have 4.88's and 35" MT/R's (whatever they measure). For arguments sake, let's say they are 34.5. I live at 5400 ft. and take hills quite a bit. The 4.88 is plenty of gear (I do have a TIRED motor with 180K and more vertical than it should have had) and when I'm on the flat, I'd like to have 4.56.
I do not stay in OD on hills as I'm climbing from 5400 ft. to about 8000-9000 on most 'common' highways.
Thanks for the info. Do you drive long distances on relatively straight, flat freeways? What's your Hwy mileage? Rpm's? Cruising speed? I have troble going less than 75, but maybe deeper gears will force me to slow down!
Thanks for the info! I should just find someone with 4.88s and drive it.
Thanks again.
CaptTrev
January 6th, 2004, 18:16
this is probably a stupid question, and i think i know theanswer already but here goes:
im on 31's right now with stock 3.55 gearing
when i go to 4.56's, what will my "off the line"/0-60 speed do?
i ask this because i want to do gears and (some form of) lockers NOW, and have it still work well for when i go to 33's (and possibly, eventually 35's)
this is 100% my DD rig, but it DOES see some good weekend wheelin...
thanks!
CaptTrev
mbryson
January 6th, 2004, 18:56
Thanks for the info. Do you drive long distances on relatively straight, flat freeways? What's your Hwy mileage? Rpm's? Cruising speed? I have troble going less than 75, but maybe deeper gears will force me to slow down!
Thanks for the info! I should just find someone with 4.88s and drive it.
Thanks again.
Hmmmm.....I've never driven the XJ out on the salt flats or anything......I do drive it to Moab and it's 'relatively flat' after you get off the freeway. That's about 40 miles or so......It does fine. It doesn't like to go much over 70-75 or the mileage just plain goes to he11. I'm about 16-17 on the highway and probably 13-15 around town depending on weather. At 65, I think my RPM's are 2400-2600......don't hold me to that.
Oh, and Captn......I'd probably go with the 4.56 with what you've indicated.
89TrailXJ
January 7th, 2004, 06:57
Well I am going to 33's and want to re-gear as well.
Here's what I found:
4:56's with install kits- $326
Add a Detroit EZ Locker- $252
So for $580ish I can upgrade gears and to a rear locker. Sound about right?
Website is: http://www.drivetrainsuperstores.com/
sintax
January 7th, 2004, 07:50
$580 assuming you have all the proper tools to install gear, and have the knowledge to do so. A gear install is not something that should be tackled by just anyone.
You also need to add the cost of a carrier into the mix as well, unless you have 4.10's from the factory.
As for the EZ Locker....I'd spend the few extra dollars on a full detroit soft locker. I think you'll find it a better option in the long run.
-Scott
Mojo Troll
January 7th, 2004, 17:12
this is probably a stupid question, and i think i know theanswer already but here goes:
im on 31's right now with stock 3.55 gearing
when i go to 4.56's, what will my "off the line"/0-60 speed do?
i ask this because i want to do gears and (some form of) lockers NOW, and have it still work well for when i go to 33's (and possibly, eventually 35's)
this is 100% my DD rig, but it DOES see some good weekend wheelin...
thanks!
CaptTrev
4:56's and 33's are'nt to bad. If your considering 35's in the future you might want to consider 4:88's. You going to run stock axles with 35's???
I've got a fresh rebuilt non HO (no where close to the power of a HO) 4L, AX 4, 231, 4:56's, 33" Swampers (actual 33.7" according to TSL), Dana 35/30. At 65mph I'm turning 2100 rpm in OD, flirting with 3 grand in 3rd. The only time I drive my pig on the freeway is to get to dirt. Around town I run in 3rd. I live in mountainous terrain, so on the freeway I have to shift into 3rd a lot. The heavy Swampers (suck on freeways) and non HO motor don't help.
Get it in the dirt and thats a different story. I like 33's/4:56's pretty well. The only complant I have is in tacky mud. My non HO motor does'nt have the power to spin the heavy, mud caked tires enough to shead mud on long climbs. Which has nothing to do with gear ratio anyways, simply lack of power. I'm going with a little less aggressive more pavement friendly tire when I wear out the Swampers.
If your going to run Dana 35/30 with 35's you want 4:88's or lower if possible for sure. Personally I would'nt run 35's on a 35/30 (which would negate you spending money to lock them), especially on a DD. Thats asking alot of 27 splines IMHO. If your considering building that big down the road, think about swapping axles rather than building 35/30's. My axles are deffinatly my weakest link. Its always funny to see my XJ flexed, then I look at those toothpick axles and laugh. On the other hand sometimes its not so funny when you get into a tough section and start worrying about those toothpicks snapping.
BTW If you build as big as your considering, "off the line" will be the last thing running through your mind. It will be more like "where is the next gas station" and "Do you think I can crawl over the top of that Honda Civic". :peace:
xj92
January 7th, 2004, 17:48
I just find it amusing that everyone talks about highway usage and in the same sentence uses calculations for 65mph. I always run 10 over, so I drive 75 and 85 on the highway, depending on the limit. So when I look at how my gears perform on the highway, I think about up to 85mph, not 65mph. Right now I run bald 31's (currently 29.5") with the 5-speed, and at 85mph I'm right above 3000rpm. 3000 rpm's for 9 hours straight on a trip to Moab isn't bad if my cat is removed, because it seems to move the power band up the rpm range a little. With the stock cat & muffler though it's awful and feels like the motor is screaming for relief.
Mojo Troll
January 9th, 2004, 18:34
I just wish my pig could maintain 65mph in the mountains. :laugh:
crazy4mopar
January 9th, 2004, 22:37
I'll be running 4:88's with my 35's. In OD I will only be pushing 2436 rpm's at 65 and about 2623 at 70 :)
Neil
January 23rd, 2004, 00:52
I went with the 4:88's My transmission loves me again! I woulden't recomend anything deeper for a DD. I spend very little time in first gear, the engine winds up real fast (even with the auto) I'll let you guys know how they work off road as soon as I get the front regeared. But as for the street 4:88 and 35's are a great combo.
Phil
January 23rd, 2004, 01:55
Cool, I'm sitting about 10' away from my 4.88s and full spool. What do you think about them on the highway?
basalt51
January 23rd, 2004, 08:35
Ok, 4.88s it is and I'm never reading another gear thread until they're in :)
Neil
January 23rd, 2004, 08:46
There a little low on the freeway, about 2500 rpm's @ 70 mph. That's about the same rpm's that I pulled in 3rd gear with the 3:55's. With the 4:88's the engine is not working near as hard to hold 70 and I can use 4th gear again. All in all I think that the 4:88's were a great choice. With as low as 1st is in 2wd I can only imagine how low it will be in 4low.
PhatXJ
January 23rd, 2004, 10:54
I run 4.88's in my D30/44 with ARB's. AW4, and 35's.
It's perfect.
It's not my daily driver, but when I go wheelin, I drive all the way there on the freeway. Drove from WA state to Moab last Oct. No problems. At or near 2500 rpms at 75mph.
REDXJ4FUN
January 23rd, 2004, 11:48
I had 33s on mine when i went to 4.56 and loved them but now with 35s I wish i had gone with the 4.88s but its no an issue now since my old axles are in my friends XJ turning 32s and hes having a blast with it. I'm now going to 5.38s :yelclap: :cheers: . ya i'll turn some rpms on the high way a little over 2500 at 70 witch is fine with me oh a whole 400 rpm more than the 4.56.
crazy4mopar
January 26th, 2004, 09:13
WoooHoooo
the 4:88's are in!! 2450 at 70 AND way better gas milage :) :) :)
Rawbrown
January 26th, 2004, 12:20
Well I am going to 33's and want to re-gear as well.
Here's what I found:
4:56's with install kits- $326
Add a Detroit EZ Locker- $252
So for $580ish I can upgrade gears and to a rear locker. Sound about right?
Website is: http://www.drivetrainsuperstores.com/
Rawbrown
January 26th, 2004, 12:30
wanted to hit you back channel on this one.
326$ didn't sound quite right after looking at there web site.
a dana 30 4.56 is $126
front master install kit $62
rear d35 gears $126
rear master install kit $ 95
Thats $409.
unless you went with minor install kits. but I recomend allways installing new bearings. its worth the extra few $$$.
I can tell you right now that i could give you better pricing than what is on there web site.
what year is your jeep? axles? current ratio? Tranny? tire size?
Ryan Brown
Rawbrown
rawbrown@cox.net
760-505-9924:callme:
Well I am going to 33's and want to re-gear as well.
Here's what I found:
4:56's with install kits- $326
Add a Detroit EZ Locker- $252
So for $580ish I can upgrade gears and to a rear locker. Sound about right?
Website is: http://www.drivetrainsuperstores.com/
Phil
January 26th, 2004, 15:12
WoooHoooo
the 4:88's are in!! 2450 at 70 AND way better gas milage :) :) :)
Hey Lee, are you still on 33s for now?
Rawbrown
January 26th, 2004, 15:14
ok... it didn't go back channel...
ooops.
crazy4mopar
January 26th, 2004, 16:28
Yup
But I have a line on some new 37" boggers :)
Weasel
January 26th, 2004, 16:41
Dave, what kind of MPG did you get?
red87cherokee
January 26th, 2004, 17:09
AND way better gas milage :) :) :) Just out of curiosity - did you change your speedometer gear? If not, your odometer would be off and you'd be registering extremely high MPG's.
For example: on my rig, I went from 3.07's to 4.88's - since I haven't changed the speedometer gear, yet, my speedometer and odometer are WAY OFF. When I go 50 MPH actual, my speedometer shows 75 MPH. This means that my speedometer and odometer are reading 50% too high. If I don't make a correction for that when I calculate my MPG, it will also be 50% high. So, right now I'm showing over to 22 MPG's - but, the reality is that I'm getting about 15 MPG's.
Mojo Troll
January 26th, 2004, 18:32
AHHHH that is a good point on recalibration.
Fresh rebuilt NON HO 4L (not even close to a HO power), 4:56's, AW4, 33" Swampers, 2100 rpm's @ 65 mph, recalibrated speddo, and a lousy 13-15mpg. Single digits in 4WD. Thankfully it's a trail rig. :rof:
BTW.....is this thread ever going to die? LOL.... great reference post for the future.
basalt51
January 26th, 2004, 18:55
Lee who did your gears? How much?
poomba
January 31st, 2004, 11:11
Well I am going to 33's and want to re-gear as well.
Here's what I found:
4:56's with install kits- $326
Add a Detroit EZ Locker- $252
So for $580ish I can upgrade gears and to a rear locker. Sound about right?
Website is: http://www.drivetrainsuperstores.com/
I got quoted $1,040.00 to install 4:56's (running 33 superswampers..to be changed to procomp at's when these wear out), parts, labor for the regearing and also changing out the wheel ujoints (ujoints provided by me). My locker's already in, so..just to give you a ball park figure. It's being done next week, so info is current.
crazy4mopar
January 31st, 2004, 16:54
Lee who did your gears? How much?
A friend in Sacramento. We bartered for some parts.
Rawbrown
January 31st, 2004, 23:10
$1040?
what are they charging for labor?
Renegade Jpr
January 31st, 2004, 23:36
$1040 is HIGH for just a gear install. RawBrown did my entire drivetrain for a little over that...EXCILENT work I should add ;)
XJoachim
February 1st, 2004, 01:33
Read, it includes parts, i think this price is OK, even with the additional work for the u-joints.
Neil
February 1st, 2004, 02:18
Man! This thread is like the Energizer Bunny. Chuck went to 4:88 too. He runs 33's. We both went ahead and put our own gears in. It really isn't that hard. All you have to do is read and understand as much information as you can on how to do it, and take your time. We will probably be regearing the front axle next month.
xjblaine
March 8th, 2004, 23:22
Keeps going and going and going....I just did my 4.46 install today with 33's MUCH better than stock. It was NOT hard at all, just a little bit technical. With the right tools, dial indicator, bluing, etc, it wasn't that bad (I'm not touching the front axle though....my hands took enough of a beating taking the carrier out and putting it back in). I got it done in a day. I vote do it yourself if you have the time and motivation. aka no $$$$
crazy4mopar
March 9th, 2004, 11:51
Keeps going and going and going....I just did my 4.46 install today with 33's MUCH better than stock. It was NOT hard at all, just a little bit technical. With the right tools, dial indicator, bluing, etc, it wasn't that bad (I'm not touching the front axle though....my hands took enough of a beating taking the carrier out and putting it back in). I got it done in a day. I vote do it yourself if you have the time and motivation. aka no $$$$
I put the 4:88 in mine :rtm:
ChuckD
March 9th, 2004, 12:06
Man! This thread is like the Energizer Bunny. Chuck went to 4:88 too. He runs 33's. We both went ahead and put our own gears in. It really isn't that hard. All you have to do is read and understand as much information as you can on how to do it, and take your time. We will probably be regearing the front axle next month.
Hey, Energizer Bunny! When are we going to do those 30's? :callme: I'm taking Thursday and Friday OFF!
xjrugger
March 9th, 2004, 13:47
Just as an opinion, and we all know what those are like, but i am running 4.88's and 35's with a beefed up shafts and ujoints D30 and I have 0 problems, (knocking on wood). I once had 4.10's and 33's and it would fall in and out of OD on the highway. Plus the 4.10's were faster for about a week until i realized I should have geared lower. Basically, don't hesitate to go lower if it is that little of a difference. I could understand not doing 5.13's cause its your DD, but so is mine and 4.88's have been just fine for 2 years now.
OOC
March 9th, 2004, 14:48
I recently installed front and rear lockers with 4.88's and I couldn't be happier with the performance. At about 70-75mph i'm at 2800rpm in OD. It feels 10 times better on the highway and offroad then it did with the 3.55's!
Neil
March 10th, 2004, 07:39
Hey, Energizer Bunny! When are we going to do those 30's? :callme: I'm taking Thursday and Friday OFF!
No gears now. My harmonic balancer came apart. Spun right off, what a loud bang :explosion Barney is going to be the donor untill I can find another one.
XJWheelie
March 10th, 2004, 08:11
I recently installed front and rear lockers with 4.88's and I couldn't be happier with the performance. At about 70-75mph i'm at 2800rpm in OD. It feels 10 times better on the highway and offroad then it did with the 3.55's!
What size tires do you have? Automatic or manual transmission? I'm considering 4.88s with 33" Super Swampers. I had thought about going with 4.56s or even 4.10s and then putting a 4-1 kit in my t-case until I priced it. By the time you add a SYE and a 2-low kit you've just about paid for an Atlas!
basalt51
March 10th, 2004, 10:59
Get the 4.88s. I'm going to miss the gearing when I go to 35s!
ChuckD
March 10th, 2004, 11:49
No gears now. My harmonic balancer came apart. Spun right off, what a loud bang :explosion Barney is going to be the donor untill I can find another one.
Ya know, you have been having a lot of these :explosion lately. Maybe you need to think about this whole jeep'n thing. It may not be for you! :D
maineiac
March 10th, 2004, 14:26
I'm running 3.55 and 35's! Seems to do ok, I say ok because on the road I have lost the use of 4th gear and off the road any throttle application equals tire spin. Kind of hard in the snow. should be lots of fun in the mud :)
3.55 with 35's
i have 3.55 with 31's and i hate it im going to 4.10's
OOC
March 12th, 2004, 09:33
What size tires do you have? Automatic or manual transmission? I'm considering 4.88s with 33" Super Swampers. I had thought about going with 4.56s or even 4.10s and then putting a 4-1 kit in my t-case until I priced it. By the time you add a SYE and a 2-low kit you've just about paid for an Atlas!
I am currently running 33's! Maybe next summer 35's.
Neil
March 13th, 2004, 10:05
3.55 with 35's
i have 3.55 with 31's and i hate it im going to 4.10's
Think really hard if you're ever going to go to larger tires. Regearing is somthing that you only want to do once.
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