5th gear gone

OK, so 5th gear is gone and reverse dont sound good but still usable. I am going to pick up a rebuilt tranny ( AX-5) next week. I think I got a fair deal on it.(500). So my question is;
Can I change it out by myself? How hard are they to pull and get all lined back up to put back in?

If you're mechanically able then you can do it.
How hard is it? Depends on a few things. Do you have good tools? Are you on a smooth hard surface or in a gravel driveway? Do you have a tranny jack?
It's not really that difficult a job, just takes a little time and attention. You'll pretty much need a clutch alignment tool if you change your clutch at the same time, and I probably would if you've got many miles on it. If you've got a pretty good assortment of hand tools you should be okay there. A tranny jack is extremely helpful, but you can manage with a floor jack, just use mucho caution. If you can, buy a tranny adapter for a floor jack if thats all you have, or built a cradle type thing for it. As far as alignment, I haven't had any trouble with either of the ones I've done. Good luck.

Dale

A tip for the first time tranny changer. Once you get the tranny out, take a couple of the bell housing bolts and go to your local hardware store. Get a couple of the same size bolts but in a 2 inch longer form. Then you get the tranny up close, insert the long bolts. They then work as guides to help you keep the tranny lined up as you slide it up to the motor and the input shaft goes into the clutch. Once the tranny is up flush to the motor, remove them and replace them with the original bolts. This will save you a ton of cussing and swearing. That is not to say there will be none, but it will help.

It's a very doable job, provided you have some basic stuff...good set of sockets, preferably 1/2" drive, a good floor jack (2T or better) and a good solid floor to work on, some HD jackstands and some blocking, flare nut wrenches for the clutch line fittings, and a tranny jack (not essential, but makes the job a whole lot easier). A basic step thru goes somewhat like this:
1. Jack up vehicle in front as high as safely possible and support with jackstands at the LCA frame end area. Block as necessary for safety.
2. Disco driveshafts, TC linkage, speedo cable, and vac connector on TC (if applicable), put trans in N, and remove shifter from top of trans. Disco TPS wire from harness, seperate the clutch line, and disco any other electrical connectors from trans to wire harness. Loosen the TC vent line from where it's attached up in the engine bay.
3. Support trans/TC with floor jack, or install the tranny jack at this point and chain it up, and remove the crossmember *note--index the Xmember to the framerail so you install it the same way...it's not symmetrical (even tho it looks like it is)
4. Slowly lower the trans via the jack to lower the driveline. Make sure the fan blades do not have any issues with the radiator.
5. Unbolt the TC and remove, then remove all bellhousing bolts/nuts. There are 2 at the top of the housing that are a PITA to get to unless you use some extensions and a wobbly. You don't have to remove the starter on a 2.5 to pull the trans, so leave it be unless you need to pull it otherwise.
6. Pull trans backward to remove...you may have to wiggle it, or rock it up and down while pulling rearward to get the input shaft clear of the clutch housing. BE VERY CAREFUL at this point if not using a tranny jack, as it only needs to come back about 2.5" or so until it's freed and will fall straight down, compliments of gravity
7. Just like a Haynes or Chilton's manual says...installation is the reverse of removal.

You really should take the time and $$ at this point to replace the clutch components, as well as the slave/throwout, since you have it all apart. Also, get the flywheel machined and replace the pilot bearing, and consider replacing the TPS while everything's out and easy to work on. You could just throw the new trans in and bolt all the old stuff back in again and be fine, but you'll never have a better chance to do it than when it's all out.
HTH,
Jeff

Thankx allot guys. I think it sounds very doable. I have a ton of tools, jack stands and my buddy has a trans jack. I will also be in an air conditioned (if needed) garage with a concrete floor. I have a variety of socket extentions and some air tools. I'm not that mechanicle but, not afraid to try stuff. Ive done brakes, u-joints and axle shaft u-joints. I ve also done a few lifts too, so hopfully this wont be to bad. I dont have the clutch alignment tool, but is that really nessecary? If so I could probably go buy one if not real expensive. Again guys, thanx..........Tom

If you're not replacing the clutch, you don't have to worry about it at all...but as I mentioned, there's no better time to do it. A full clutch kit (pressure plate, housing, throwout/slave, and pilot bearing) should come with an alignment tool, and cost somewhere around $120-ish for a decent one. If it doesn't have one for some reason, you can buy one from any local parts place, like NAPA, Bato-zone, etc...for less than $5.
PM/EM me if you need any help..I've had my AX5 in/out a few times too many
Jeff

Jeff in VA said:

If you're not replacing the clutch, you don't have to worry about it at all...but as I mentioned, there's no better time to do it. A full clutch kit (pressure plate, housing, throwout/slave, and pilot bearing) should come with an alignment tool, and cost somewhere around $120-ish for a decent one. If it doesn't have one for some reason, you can buy one from any local parts place, like NAPA, Bato-zone, etc...for less than $5.
PM/EM me if you need any help..I've had my AX5 in/out a few times too many
Jeff

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Ditto what Jeff said! Especially about having it in and out several times! Also, fill it with GL-3! Not GL-5! The AX-15 and AX-5 have the same problematic fluid request! Which could be the reason for your tranny malfunctioning!