87 cherokee ?s

ok upon startup my 87 cherokee laredo pulls somewhere around 2-3000 rpm. i have a new TPS that i need to put in but what else should i do to help that?? also how should i go about adjusting the TPS? what else could be causing this problem??? also my temp guage does not seem to work. i have replaced the sensor, new radiator, new thermostat, new housing, new fan switch, new overflow bottle x2, and a new upper hose. it just reads right around 100* when warm and below that when cold. any ideas???? should i just put in a mechanical guage in place of the factory unit??

also the tranny seams to be slipping just a touch... i know it needs to be serviced but i have never done this befor on my own. i have always had a shop deal with those types of things. i know i will need a gasket and filter for the pan BUT is there anything else i will need besides trans fluid?? also what type of fluid should i run??? i know i am asking alot in my first post but i am going to be bringin the XJ home within the next 3 days so i need to know like SOON!

thanx for listening to my little rant here and thank you for you help in these matters..

You may have gotten the temp sender for idiot lights. That's a simple ON/OFF switch. Try disconnecting the wire from your temp sender (the one in the rear corner of the head, driver's side). With the ignition on, the needle should peg to one side. Now ground the wire to the head. The needle should peg to the opposite extreme. If that works, the gauge is functional and the sender is suspect. If you want to get really tricky, go to Radio Shack and buy a 44 ohm resister. Put that in series with the wire when you ground it to the head and the gauge should read at the mid-range. (This also applies to the oil pressure and gas gauges.)

moparPW200guy said:

also the tranny seams to be slipping just a touch... i know it needs to be serviced but i have never done this befor on my own. i have always had a shop deal with those types of things. i know i will need a gasket and filter for the pan BUT is there anything else i will need besides trans fluid?? also what type of fluid should i run???

Click to expand...

Ok on the trans. The AW4 has a metal filter, so you need not replacing it. There is a drain plug on the pan that is a 14mm head, just remove and drain. If your pan is not leaking I do not recomend removing it. As for the fluid, Jeep advises that you use ATF+3, there has been many discussions on this. I personally use the stuff that toyota/lexus sells ( ex yota tech ) its not cheap...but well worth it in my book. I have 180k on the trans an no problems thus far, just change the fluid every 20k. Good luck and hope this helps.

Scott.

thanx for the info guys and i will check into the sensor. as for the trans pan it leaks badly so i gotta redo the gasket...

well i got the TPS in and adjusted and the IAS pulled and cleand and she runs better now. thanx for hte info on the site. i still have a small slippage rpoblem in the trans but i think i can deal with that come next week.

thanx forhte info

The most common cause of the high idle is the TPS but other things can also. Basically the cause of a high idle is when the ECM sees a change in TPS reading from start to run (close to open circuit). This can be caused by a bad TPS, poor connections (such as the TPS connector, 87-88 C101 connector, or the connections at the ECM) or the ECM itself.

I would service the trans fluid and check the adjustment of the line pressure cable (often incorrectly refered as a kickdown cable)

thank you for the tip. as for adjusting the line pressure linkage how should i go about that???

also i just realized today that my shift interlock is not working. it worked befor i replaced the shifter due to the shifter being bent but now it doesn't. any ideas on that or should i just take it in to have it looked at???

thanx again!

Basically the cable is self adjusting after you reset it. There is a button on top you push and pull the cabel all the way back out, then release the button, and rotate the throttle all the way open by hand and it should click into adjustment.

Which part of the shift interlock are you refeing to? If you had the 733 recall done then there are two adjustments. One for thebrake pedal interlock (at the shifter) and another for the locked inpark with key out part (at the column). If it worked before the adjustment at the shifter I'd try first. If you look at the cable where it comes into the shifter you will see a horse shoe part on top with a notch, you insert a screwdriver and pull the center up, this will free up the cable to move in/out to adjust then just push the lock back in.

sorry its taken me so long but i been busy with other problems... ok what its doing is with the key OFF the interlock works. wont let me even press teh button in. with the key ON i can freely move the shifter out of park without pressing the brake pedal. i am thinking there is a stuck relay or something causeing this to happen. am i right???

There is a relay but the cable adjustment needs to be done at the shifter. Pull out the lock, turn the key on (not running and foot off the brake), push the cable in and pull it back till it locks, push it in ever so slightly, and lock it in, then try taking it out of park on/off the brake pedal, readjust slightly as necessary.

I can move the shifter without pressing the brake on my '90. I think lots of earlier XJs were like that. I know there is a recall for it, which the dealer will still do.

90Pioneer said:

I can move the shifter without pressing the brake on my '90. I think lots of earlier XJs were like that. I know there is a recall for it, which the dealer will still do.

Click to expand...

Yes it was recall 733 and he has apparently already had it done but since his shifter has been replaced it probably needs to be readjusted.