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Am I getting ripped off??

jeepenator

NAXJA Forum User
I know this is 4WPW and that they aren't the most honest people (after all they sold me my original Pro-Comp lift). I went in today to get a pricing for the upcoming gear change and locker install and this is what they have for me, please tell me if this seems like a good deal....

Gears for D30 (4.88) : 115.99
D30 Install Kit: 83.99
Toyota 8" 4.88: 149.99
Toyota 8" Install Kit: 108.99
D30 Detroit Tru-Trac: 334.99
Labor for front: 250
Labor for rear: 180
Gear Oil: 14
Shop Fee: 20
Shipping: 15

Total w/ tax: 1384.97

Does this seem good for what i'm getting??
 
Do NOT, i repeat, do NOT, let 4WPW do this work on your rig. Lifting F250s they will do a marginal job, doing precision work to .005", no WAY. Go to a driveline shop locally. Buy the parts and bring them to them. Those prices are about right. They are charging less to set up the toy third because they can do it on a bench and it goes quickly. I think the tru-trac is a lunch box locker. You should consider doing the rear locker (go detroit) since you are setting up gears at the same time. You will need to reset your gears again if you get a carrier replacing locker like ARB, detroit, etc.

SeanP
 
jeepenator said:
I know this is 4WPW and that they aren't the most honest people (after all they sold me my original Pro-Comp lift). I went in today to get a pricing for the upcoming gear change and locker install and this is what they have for me, please tell me if this seems like a good deal....

Gears for D30 (4.88) : 115.99
D30 Install Kit: 83.99
Toyota 8" 4.88: 149.99
Toyota 8" Install Kit: 108.99
D30 Detroit Tru-Trac: 334.99
Labor for front: 250
Labor for rear: 180
Gear Oil: 14
Shop Fee: 20
Shipping: 15

Total w/ tax: 1384.97

Does this seem good for what i'm getting??

Where in CA? if down south, hit RawBrown, excellent work and price!
 
Rawbrown (Ryan Brown) is the man i'd talk to....

-Scott
 
SeanP said:
I think the tru-trac is a lunch box locker.

You should consider doing the rear locker (go detroit) since you are setting up gears at the same time.

SeanP

a detroit truetrac is a full carrier limited slip.

from his JU post:

-=- originally posted by jeepenator -=-
I've decided to go with a late model Toyota 8" rear since it comes with a selectable locker and is the right width while being tougher than a D44 (according to NAXJA)

looks like you already have the rear locker covered.


i don't know anything about the company, but the prices seem reasonable.
 
Yeah the prices didn't seem too bad. I'll have to check around and see if i can get the install elsewhere.

The rear locker is gonna be like sarvermr said the factory electric one so i'm really doing better than detroit there.

Thanks for the input.

Oh...i'm in WA now for the summer but when i'm back at school it's in the L.A. area. Azusa to be specific.
 
the prices seem about right, but i agree with SeanP on not letting 4WP work on diffs.

so you're doing a Toyota in the rear! cool, join the club (I think it's just Ary and I at this point). So what are you doing to deal with bolt-pattern since you're keeping the D30? What Toy axle did you get? I hope it's one of the later 60" wide ones, the 55" or 58.5" ones wouldn't work well with an XJ at all.
 
Not gonna post everything I typed before, but here's a link to the same thread on JU where I answered a lot of questions already. LINK
 
talk to the NW crew, i'm sure they can give you better ideas. i'm not familiar with any of the western washingtoners except for randys ring and pinion. thats my 3 cents.


Kris
 
I have the day off of work tomorrow so that means junk yard rummaging (sp?) for me. I'm gonna get a late model tacoma axle with the lock already in it.

Yeah i posted this over on JU and got a bunch of crap for the Toy axle. Don't know why more don't do it.

As for the bolt pattern problem i have one of two options... I can either have my taco axle setup for 5x4.5" but i don't know how much that'll run and after the bank i'm setting out right now i'm not sure. Or i'm gonna get a spare rim at 5x4.5" so that i can use it up front without screwing up the steering and then have an adapter for the rear that will cause it to be backspaced more but won't matter in the rear.

This sound good to you guys??
 
The adaptor method should work just fine for the spare as far as I can tell. Assuming someone makes that adaptor. Good luck with the project, and if you need any help, I'm sure Brett or myself could answer a lot of your questions.

Ary
 
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