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Getting ready for the WJ brake/steering conversion. Long

Angus

NAXJA Forum User
I have been gathering parts and advice for my modified D30 to go into my 2000 XJ. Yes, I am staying with the D30 since this is a daily driver that does not wheel hard or often and I recieved a HP D30 for free. At 4" inches the steering (alignment/wobbles) is not the greatest and the brakes are poor especialy towing my shop trailer. When complete I will have a high pinion, 4.11 truetrac geared, WJ rotored and WJ steered Dana 30!

I currently have the HP D30, WJ knuckles, 2003 WJ calipers and pads, and a factory used good set of 4.11 gears. I will reuse my 297 axle shafts from the LP D30. Of course the CA bushings, ball joints, and bearing will be replaced.

OK, after many months of research on this conversion there are few questions. I will be following Mark Hinkley's (ORGS) build for the most part. One thing I am doing different is with the unit bearing spacer issue (ORGS, Burnsville Off Road, 4x4wire.com). I went to O'reily's and double checked that the WJ unit bearing knuckle mating surface is .23 different from the XJ's (Jeepsrus.com). Of course this is the amount needed to space a XJ bearing to keep the u-joint in line with the steering axis. I was going to weld the spacers on the knuckles (ORGS), but now I will just redrill the WJ unit bearing. Most good aftermarket rotors will be good to use once redrilled.

The steering will look almost like the stock WJ. I was going to mount everything as a high steer, but the axle swaybar and tracbar mounts all have to change because of draglink interfearance. If I was totally worried about clearance I would be running more than a 31" tire. When all is said and done I may have to do some fine tuning to the tracbar mount but it should be close.

If you are still reading this and have any comments or advice please let me know. Keep in mind that my my XJ is a daily driver that is used to pull a small trailer, so it will stay in the 4" area for life. The rear NoSlip and soon front Trutrac will help keep the XJ a good wheeler despit the smaller tires. My goals are to improve the gearing, make the braking better, and make the steering more reliable. I have battled wobbles since lifting, even though the truck is meticulasly maintained, balanced, and aligned. After a true-honest-pee-my-pants Death Wobble experience I bought a JKS tracbar and JKS lower control arms that made life good, but not perfect. In essence I am trying to engineer the truck to act and feel "stock" at a modified height (don't laugh). Yes, the rear locker and taller height affect the feel, but you know what I mean. With the bigger brakes and improved draglink angles of the WJ I hope to succeed.

Angus
 
sounds like a great plan angus (my WJ brakes made a world of difference with 33" tires :D )

the only thing i'm not following is where you mention redrilling the WJ unit bearing. do you mean converting the WJ bearing to 5x4.5" bolt pattern? if so, keep in mind that the WJ rotors are bigger than XJ rotors (about 1" larger in diameter). you may want to reconsider using the ORGS spacers and TJ/XJ unit bearings, then redrilling a set of WJ rotors to get the full benefit of larger brakes.

as far as steering goes, are you building a custom drag link/tie rod, or using the ORGS drag link/tie rod that has been tapped for the WJ TREs?

keep us up to date!

Chuck
 
Yes I am useing the WJ unitbearings and rotors. I am not the biggest fan of the spacers and the WJ bearing when redrilled to 5x4.5, should take care of the problem. I will also use stock WJ tierod ends with ORGS rods and jamnuts.
 
OK I have made a mistake. I compared the XJ and WJ unit bearing with my own eyes. Yes there is a difference besides the bolt pattern, but not in the u-joint area. The flange that the rotor, and thus the wheel mounts, is about 1/4 further from the knuckle surface on the WJ bearing. The inner bearing surface that the outer shaft mounts to is in the same plane on both. In other words a spacer of some sort is needed to move the bearing unit out.

Again if anyone knows about this first hand let me know!!!!!

Angus
 
Angus said:
OK I have made a mistake. I compared the XJ and WJ unit bearing with my own eyes. Yes there is a difference besides the bolt pattern, but not in the u-joint area. The flange that the rotor, and thus the wheel mounts, is about 1/4 further from the knuckle surface on the WJ bearing. The inner bearing surface that the outer shaft mounts to is in the same plane on both. In other words a spacer of some sort is needed to move the bearing unit out.

Again if anyone knows about this first hand let me know!!!!!

Angus

Have you checked out ORGS site to see what you need. He has the kit all laid out, you can get them through, JKS or Kevinparts.

HTH
 
ChuckD,
Yes ORGS is my main model. Please, read my initial post to get an idea of what I'm doing and following.

Thanks, Angus
 
Angus said:
ChuckD,
Yes ORGS is my main model. Please, read my initial post to get an idea of what I'm doing and following.

Thanks, Angus


That's was way too much to read, but I just read it anyway. I'm not exactly sure why your changing the the way ORGS did it. I'm sure if you stuck with the ORGS plan, it would work out to your liking and goals.

Sorry It's been a long day and I'm having trouble visualizing what your trying to put together. Maybe because, I'm not familure with the WJ parts.
 
The idea of the spacer is due to the knuckle and ujoint placement. Also not to buy another part to be modified. IE the WJ bearing.

I guess you could redrill the wj unibearing to 4.5 but I'm not sure if there is room for the studs. Don't forget you will need to drill the rotor out also for the 4.5 pattern.

The spacers, once welded on, aren't spacers anymore, if that helps. :D

mark

BTW I didn't read ALL your first post either. :D
 
Anyone know where you can get some tapered sleeves for the WJ tre's? I figured it might be easier to drill out the knuckles to 5/8" and use a tapered sleeve on the TRE and put it down from the top. That way you wouldn't have to ream it out from the top, especially since my pitman arm is already drilled out since I have heims on my current steering setup. (Sorry to hijack the thread)

-Mike
 
Yes, goferitoffroad.com has the sleeves you want. I may end up doing that too, just realy do not have the clearance need that most want.

After looking at the WJ and XJ hubs together I feel stupid for questioning the experts (Mark Hinkley). I weld good and have a friend who welds excellent so I'm not sure why I bother to reinvent the wheel?

Angus
 
Angus said:
Yes, goferitoffroad.com has the sleeves you want. I may end up doing that too, just realy do not have the clearance need that most want.

After looking at the WJ and XJ hubs together I feel stupid for questioning the experts (Mark Hinkley).

Funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I weld good and have a friend who welds excellent so I'm not sure why I bother to reinvent the wheel?

Because that is what fabricators do!!!!

Angus


bold/underline added by me above!

hinkley
 
Big Jeep 101 said:
Anyone know where you can get some tapered sleeves for the WJ tre's? I figured it might be easier to drill out the knuckles to 5/8" and use a tapered sleeve on the TRE and put it down from the top. That way you wouldn't have to ream it out from the top, especially since my pitman arm is already drilled out since I have heims on my current steering setup. (Sorry to hijack the thread)

-Mike

Reaming it does work better.

The reamers are cheap 60.00 (for what they are) and you can always rent them to your buddies to make some money back, or get some beer for the use of it. :D

You can either ream it by hand or use a electric drill, won't take long at all.

Then if you need to you can make your own sleeves out of 5/8" seamless tubing. Just make sure to split them so the expand from the preasure of the TRE. This way everthing locks together and holds tight. However they can be a beatch to install.

Here is the one I have:
http://www.goodson.com/g5-bin/clien...1;search_button=Search;INVOICE_ID=&item=P5645

mark
 
Mark, while your captive or at least on NAXJA, did you get my email a week ago. I know you are busy but I was double checking some things like I am here. Of course disregard the bearing issue now!

Thanks, Angus
 
Angus said:
Mark, while your captive or at least on NAXJA, did you get my email a week ago. I know you are busy but I was double checking some things like I am here. Of course disregard the bearing issue now!

Thanks, Angus

Sure did, now that I go back and look, Changed stuff so i forgot where it was.

I the unit bearing part list should be on the site.

Pricing goto JKS site or call them

HTH

mark
 
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