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Stuck rims?

T

trout1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have a solution or suggestion? I've tried everything I can think of! I've kicked, pulled, and beat to an extent without doing damage to the rims, still nothing. I just started soaking with PB Blaster between the rim and hub a couple days ago, so I suppose I'll continue that until they decide to break free.
2000 XJ
ecco (aluminum) rims
 
bad idea but drive around the block with the lug nuts loose i tried getting them off my parts jeep and they still didn't come off when i tied a rope to them and tried to pull them off with my jeep. they will come just gotta be patient.
 
i had help. But i pryed kicked and pulled. It also helps to have one person pushing on one side and you pull on the other side. Good luck
 
Went thru this with my daughters TJ, took it for inspection and 3 of us took turns wailing on it with progressivly bigger and bigger hammer, baby sledges and finally the BFS. Oh, remember to have the lug nuts on when doing that last because when it does come off IT DOES COME OFF, FAST.... Luckily it missed the vette but scared heck out of everyone when it bounced and headed that way...
When reinstalling use the copper version of anti-seize, it lasts longer... it's sold for use with brakes..
Funny now, when it came off everybody was just trying to get out of the way till we saw where it was headed then everybody was trying to catch it...
 
Here is an almost sure-fire and safe way to do it, IF your tires are inflated, and you can drive the car:

It's best to do this one wheel at a time, but you can probably do more. Back off the lugs by about 1/8 of an inch, just enough so that the tapered seats are not seated, but the wheel will stay on. Now start the car and drive forward or back - just a few feet will do it - then hit the brake hard. The wheel will rotate enough to break free. For rears, you might need to yank the handbrake instead, or try quick acceleration instead of braking.

Works on wheels a hammer won't budge, and won't bend the rim either.
 
This may be a stupid question, but I just got to thinking, will the PB Blaster I've been spraying on the hubs get into the bearing assembly and begin to break down the grease in there and cause damage/wear/failure?
 
what i do is remove all lugs except one ,and loosen it so that it is only 2 or 3 threads on the stud. spray the studs with penetrating oil. on the rear you can pry with a steel bar between he drum and the wheel . on the front, use the tie rod end to pry against not the rotor, it will warp it! or just beat it with a heavy rubber mallet against the inside of the tires.
 
I had the same problem on my '90 when doing a rear brake job. Jacked up the rear, put it on jack stands. Then, I just took a 2 foot 2X4, placed one end against the wheel rim from behind and hit it a few times with a large hammer, Then, I'd turn the wheel and repeat. Eventually the rim broke loose, and the 2x4 prevents any damage to the alloy wheel. Copius amounts of never-sieze on the back of the wheel and the face of the brake drum seems to prevent this.

I think this happens because of the aluminum alloy wheels contacting the steel brake drum face sets up a corrosive situation.
 
The copper based, brake rated anti-sieze lasts longer than the aluminum based anti-seize does. I've started switching over after I found that out.
 
RichP said:
Went thru this with my daughters TJ
Click to expand...
This reminds me, did you ever have any luck finding the sub-human that loosened the lugs on one of your kids' rides?

Rob
 
Rob Mayercik said:
This reminds me, did you ever have any luck finding the sub-human that loosened the lugs on one of your kids' rides?

Rob
Click to expand...

Nope, but a few of his and her friends who were over noticed that he had is 20ga next to his bed and my daughter has her ruger 10/22 next to her bedroom window. Couple of his friends walked over one nite about 10pm a couple of days after it happened and he scared the *rap out of them when he stood up in the jeep with the pump. The two of them were taking turns sitting out there till like 1 or 2am for almost two weeks. I think the word spread. Me, I've started paying more attention to the dog when he barks at nite now. Then theres the X10 cameras that I installed too... now if they only had a motion detector alert option for them.
 
Thanks for the ideas fellas, I got them all to come off today... After a few days of generous soaking with PB Balster, I ended up loosening all the lugs just a bit and driving about 15 feet both directions and braking hard... They all came free after doing that a couple times. I did smear a bunch of the copper anti-sieze on the rim and hub to prevent that from happening again!!!
I did not put any on the studs though, the lugs came off fine.
What about the PB Blaster that I was spraying on the hubs, do I need to worry about the Blaster getting into the hub bearing assembly and causing the grease to break down causing damage or wear to the assembly? Or am I worrying/thinking too much??
Thanks again for the ideas and help, you guys are awesome!
 
trout1 said:
Thanks for the ideas fellas, I got them all to come off today... After a few days of generous soaking with PB Balster, I ended up loosening all the lugs just a bit and driving about 15 feet both directions and braking hard... They all came free after doing that a couple times. I did smear a bunch of the copper anti-sieze on the rim and hub to prevent that from happening again!!!
I did not put any on the studs though, the lugs came off fine.
What about the PB Blaster that I was spraying on the hubs, do I need to worry about the Blaster getting into the hub bearing assembly and causing the grease to break down causing damage or wear to the assembly? Or am I worrying/thinking too much??
Thanks again for the ideas and help, you guys are awesome!
Click to expand...

Glad they came off. The hubs are well sealed, so I don't think you need to worry about getting stuff into them. You're right not to lube the studs, because the torque specs are for dry threads, and you'll tend to overtorque them if they're lubed.
 
Matthew Currie said:
Glad they came off. The hubs are well sealed, so I don't think you need to worry about getting stuff into them. You're right not to lube the studs, because the torque specs are for dry threads, and you'll tend to overtorque them if they're lubed.
Click to expand...

Actually I have been lubing my lug nuts for many many years, initially I used plain old wheel bearing grease, now I'm sophisticated and use copper anti-seize on the studs, and around the lip where the axle end meets the rear drum. I have never run into a torque problem. Granted I don't use alot, generally just a quick swipe on the studs, the lug nuts spread it around. I have never had a lug net squeal going on or off except when I forget to do this for two or three tire rotations, the squeal usually reminds me...
 
RichP said:
Actually I have been lubing my lug nuts for many many years, initially I used plain old wheel bearing grease, now I'm sophisticated and use copper anti-seize on the studs, and around the lip where the axle end meets the rear drum. I have never run into a torque problem. Granted I don't use alot, generally just a quick swipe on the studs, the lug nuts spread it around. I have never had a lug net squeal going on or off except when I forget to do this for two or three tire rotations, the squeal usually reminds me...
Click to expand...

I probably said it wrong before. I also use anti-seize sometimes, when the studs are stiff, but leave them dry if they're not. So, restated - if you lube your lugs, you need to beware of overtorquing. Better?
 
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