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R12 to Duracool...

90Pioneer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I've got an appointment Tuesday at the shop for them to evac my R12 and do an R134a conversion. Been doing some searching, and I'm finding that this may not be the best option.

I've been reading that Duracool is the coldest of cold refrigerants, and will go in place of R12, with no modifications. I've read that with R134a you should change out your compressor, dryer, and possibly other parts. Is it recommended to change anything out before the Duracool is installed? Should I replace anything just for good measure?

Where can I buy this Duracool product? If at all possible, I would like to pick it up locally. I live in Bend, Oregon for the time being. Would Home Depot/Lowes/Sears/GI Joes/Autoparts stores have it?

If not, anyone recommend a place online to purchase? And how much should I buy of it?

Thanks as always
 
Don't know about the Duracool but you can buy the 134a change over kit at any auto parts for about 30 bucks includes everything you need. I done about 20 vehicles this way, never had a problem.
 
You won't have a problem with the 134a, we do it all the time at our shop with the inexpensive kits that are available.

I have no idea what Duracool is.......never heard of it.
 
Auto A/C is a really inefficeint system, RPM/pressures and heat exchange properties changing all the time. Doubt the answer is in the freon.
 
I charged DuraCool freon on my friend's truck. No need conversion and you will need get the R134a adapter fitting High and Low because You will not able find R12 charger anywhere. Make sure you follow the instruction says 1oz of DuralCool equal 3oz of R12a. DuraColl is damn coldest!!
 
fasty said:
I charged DuraCool freon on my friend's truck. No need conversion and you will need get the R134a adapter fitting High and Low because You will not able find R12 charger anywhere. Make sure you follow the instruction says 1oz of DuralCool equal 3oz of R12a. DuraColl is damn coldest!!

So you used the R134a adapter fittings, and added DuraCool to the R12 system.....with or without evacuating it of R12 first?
 
Xjeeper - Yes, You must evacuating it of R12 first. Simple go any shop and ask them to flush it out the old R12a. They usually do free and some charge you for that. Last time i went shop and got free for flush it out.

After evacuation complete and do DuraCool charge into the A/C system.
 
Is that duracool kinda like freeze 12? They put freeze 12 in my sister's Volvo last year and it blows ice cold.
 
my new (to me) 75 3/4 ton tow rig has that Duracool in it. The PO had the whole system replaced. I think it might need to be recharged because it doesn't blow very cold. I have never done any AC work before, can anybody describe the procedure I need to go through to add more of the Duracool?
 
OK, I've called around to a few AC shops. Most of them want in the $150ish area for a leakdown test and an R134a conversion. Not many of them have heard of Duracool. One of the shops I talked to says they won't touch Duracool with a 10 ft pole, since it's propane based. They claimed it eats away at the seals??? And in his words "a fireball waiting to happen." However this shop was VERY eager to sell me $175 worth of R12.

Before calling around I was an eager beaver, and already ordered up six cans of Duracool.


What do ya'll think?
 
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hahaha That's their ways scare you away and buy their service with deep pocket of full cash from you. I have no problem with Duracool since 2 years straight :)
 
So where do you buy this Duracool refridgerant? I have R12 and 134 mixed right now and all is good so far but the lower pressure of duracool matches r12 better. Also how much is this stuff?
 
I´m skeptical of the cooling claims, I´d have to see the temp. pressure charts. The curves and graphs. If it was that good, everybody would be using it. Refrigeration is physics, pressure=temperature. Possible the Duracool, expands at a rate which works marginally better than 134a or 12 under certain conditions. As soon as the evaporator gets close to (or maybe a little below) freezing, the thermostat is supposed to shut off the compressor anyway and the expansion valve slows down the refrigerant flow. Much of the on/off cycling of the compressior, is because the evaporator is too cold (thermostat) or the pressures are too high or low (pressure switches).
 
well im happy with the cooling performance I just want something said to be more reliable. Mine blows 39* with an outside temp of 108* sitting at idle! I charged it last summer and it is still holding
 
Sent the guy I bought it from an email about my concerns from what the mechanics said....

Here is his response:

Thanks for asking, XXXXX It absolutely will not eat away at the seals. Maybe he is confusing it with some other alternative refrigerants, such as HotShot or something.

Re. the flammability, it does contain propane, but it is a more refined grade then you would use in your barbeque, with a much higher autoignition temperature. The other ingredients of the blend further reduce the flammability risk. The autoignition temperature of the regular grade of propane is only 842°F, while Duracool's autoignition temperature is 1635°F. There are over 5.5 million cars running on Duracool and other hydocarbon blends, and I have never heard of a single incident. In fact, the manufacturer provides me with $1,000,000 of liability insurance, and I have a document on file from the insurance company showing that there has never been a single claim filed from a Duracool product. So although I wouldn't recommend smoking while charging the product, in case the hose burst and the whole tank was opened up (and you're using the small cans, anyway), it shouldn't be any concern once it is in the car and in such a small quantity. There is more chance of a fire from the hair spray your wife has in the car than from the small amount (less than a pound in most cars) of Duracool in the refrigeration system. I have heard of tests done where a car was rigged to let the whole charge of Duracool into the inside of the car, with a lighter to ignite it. It was barely enough to maintain a flame. So no worries. For more information, see:
http://www.idealcoolantsolutions.com/FAQ.htm#flammability

I know many of the shops are hesitant to use any alternative refrigerant because of horror stories they've heard about OTHER alternative refrigerants. I wouldn't touch Freeze12 or HotShot or some of the others out there, but hydrocarbons are the way to go. Let me know when you find someone open to the idea; I'd like to follow up with them and get them to switch over. I also have a referral program; I'll credit you 10% of the first order someone makes based on your referral, towards a future order you make if you need more for another car or something.

I have used Duracool in all my personal cars for several years now. If I get a new vehicle I change it over to Duracool as soon as I get a chance. The reason I became the distributor here is that when I moved back from Oklahoma, I found that there was no one in the area to buy more Duracool to recharge my system after I lost my charge due to a bad hose. So I decided I should make it available here.

What you often don't hear about R134a, the primary replacement for R12, is that it is quite toxic (causes cancer and breathing problems), is global warming (not as bad as R12, but still significant), and is corrosive (so the AC systems in newer cars with R134a wear out faster). So Duracool is a much safer way to go.

We guarantee that Duracool will not harm your AC equipment (actually it prolongs its life), and are covered with a million dollars worth of liability insurance in case anything were to happen (if it did, you would be the first incident ever!).


Hope this resolves your concerns. There is a lot of misinformation floating around out there.

I'm convienced.
 
I can understand about business insurance. Same thing, I went to the shop and they scared of being see label "Flammable" on the freon.

Please read the tech info and faq stuff.. here the website = http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/product.htm#tech page

Enviro-Safe 12a and DuraCool are same. I used my own charged into the A/C system without any problem as long as you *FOLLOW* the instruction then your will be fine! :laugh2:
 
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