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Using a Non-RE shaft on RE Hack-n-tap

J

john4w

NAXJA Forum User
Is it possible to use a non-RE shaft on an RE hack and tap SYE? I am looking to do a low budget SYE and driveshaft. I have heard of guys using cherokee front shafts, but that would require some sort of adapter to the RE plate type connection. Is this a standard part like the flange plate used on Ford axles?

Thanks
-John
 
You can use the front shaft and replace the end that goes to the H&T. When oyu order the H&T from RE order the Flange as well. They know exactly what you will need. It will be about $60.

Mike
 
$90 for the SYE and $60 for the CV flange = $150. for $50 more you can get an AA or JB HD SYE and just straight bolt up the factory XJ front shaft.

i think the AA hack SYE is fine but your stuck with the factory shaft strength. upgrade now and save time and money later!
 
I have a 242 case so the AA SYE isn't an option. It's either hack and tap or the Tom Woods replacement shaft, which I don't think is worth the extra $$. It's basically a hack and tap he does for you.

Besides, I'm cheap.
-John
 
The CV flange style end is a standard Spicer part. You should be able to get it from any place that sells Dana/Spicer parts.
 
Jes is correct it is a standard Spicer part and you can get it from anyone who sells Spicer. The price is that same from anyone else when i looked so i saved myself the headache and run around and got it from RE. BTW. I paid $60 for the H&T flange without hardware. I just used grade 8 bolts from Home Depot and already had the tap.

There is no issue with the strength of the XJ front shaft. You need to check the length if you are running a lift >4.5". The strength would be an issue if you are running something other then the stock engine and drive train. (Hot V8, big axles) Then i would look into something custom. I have bene running this set up for 2 years with NO issues. Just did Tellico this past weekend again with no issues.

Mike.
 
You wouldn't happen to know the spicer part number, it's possible I already have one.

Thanks
-John
 
MK96XJ said:
Jes is correct it is a standard Spicer part and you can get it from anyone who sells Spicer. The price is that same from anyone else when i looked so i saved myself the headache and run around and got it from RE. BTW. I paid $60 for the H&T flange without hardware. I just used grade 8 bolts from Home Depot and already had the tap.

There is no issue with the strength of the XJ front shaft. You need to check the length if you are running a lift >4.5". The strength would be an issue if you are running something other then the stock engine and drive train. (Hot V8, big axles) Then i would look into something custom. I have bene running this set up for 2 years with NO issues. Just did Tellico this past weekend again with no issues.

Mike.
Click to expand...

Mike,

Just to clarify/questiotn a few things....

I'm running a '95 XJ with a '92 242 t-case and 4" (measured) lift, 4.0, AX-15, D-35 (with a D44 sitting on the garage floor waiting for me to decide on which locker...)

So if I get the RE H&T for the '92 242 and the spicer flange-to-u-joint adapter a stock XJ front drive shaft should work? Are there different length driveshafts with different t-cases, engine or trannies?

Thanks!

Lee
 
sarvermr said:
$90 for the SYE and $60 for the CV flange = $150. for $50 more you can get an AA or JB HD SYE and just straight bolt up the factory XJ front shaft.

i think the AA hack SYE is fine but your stuck with the factory shaft strength. upgrade now and save time and money later!
Click to expand...


Seriously? A stock XJ front driveshaft will bolt up to the standard length JB/AA SYE with no problems? No shortening/lengthening? I assume we're talking about an AW4 front shaft?
 
A friend of mine has been running that setup for over a year and it works fine. AW4 front driveshaft with an Advance Adapters SYE. Stock length, no modifications to the shaft. I think he's running about 6" of lift. Hopefully I can pull it off with a hack and tap since I have a 242.

-John
 
SyCo said:
Seriously? A stock XJ front driveshaft will bolt up to the standard length JB/AA SYE with no problems? No shortening/lengthening? I assume we're talking about an AW4 front shaft?
Click to expand...


i'm running RE 5.5" coils is front and a bastard leaf pack in the rear to match the fronts height. i also have a 4.0, aw4, 231, AA hd SYE, and a ford 8.8. i'm running an xj front shaft (4.0, aw4, 231) in the rear. i'd like it to be about an inch longer, but even at full droop i still have about 3/4" of travel left in the DS slip.

a lot of people will say these shafts aren't strong enough. i've trashed two, but neither was the shafts fault. i used to have really bad axle wrap so one time the axle end of the shaft broke at the ears while i was trying to go up a big ledge and the other time my axle flange broke on a STEEP hill climb and the shaft got warped as it thrashed around underneeth while i slid backwards out of control. at least the replacements are cheap!
 
the stock shaft with no modification except the spicer part added.

i am a 4.5' lift, 4ltr, AW4 231. no issues. The slip joint extend about 3/4" farther out then in the stock position so i have plenty more room on the shaft.

A bonus as said by sarvermr is that the replacments are cheap. I paid $10ea at a pick ann pull for 2 so i have a spare i have yet to use.

At tellico i trashed my crossmember and need to replace that so you know i am not *****footin the thing around.

You have to think here too. Everyone says the xj front shafts are weak but how weak can they be when they are coming from the same jeep we are using them in? The front axle doesn't get any less power then the back when in 4wd. It would take a great deal of stress to twist one of these. The front shaft IMO is stronger then the stock rear. You can feel the difference in it weight.

BTW
Early XJ's had a CV joint front shaft. these will not work. You can easily see the difference.

If anyone has ripped one of these apart (first hand not "my friend did") due to weakness of the shaft i'ld like to know.
 
VERY interesting guys,what year front shaft or does it matter?Anybody got some pix of this?This is one of those mods that truly "fit in the budget" TIA SPYDER
 
xjspyder said:
VERY interesting guys,what year front shaft or does it matter?Anybody got some pix of this?This is one of those mods that truly "fit in the budget" TIA SPYDER
Click to expand...


looks exactly like any other CV sriveshaft.
here are some old pics of mine.

242380_77_full.jpg


ghetto DS lengthening! it held up until i changed SYE's and needed a shorter shaft.

242380_76_full.jpg


this one held up better than my tom woods SYE!

242380_192_full.jpg


this one didn't hold up so well to the ledge below:
242380_228_full.jpg

242380_235_full.jpg


this one didn't fair as well either after the 8.8 flange adapter let loose.

242380_277_full.jpg


i feel that either of the shafts i have had to replace would have let go in the same situations. its better to pay $25 for a replacement instead of $250!
 
I was originally contemplating getting the RE hack n tap and using a modified front driveshaft with the spicer flange, but your math is sound, might as well pay a few dollars more for an nicer SYE kit. I'm only running 2" right now, but should be up to around 3.5" shortly, so I was curious as to whether a stock front shaft would be plug n play.
 
I'm running a RE hack n' tap with a front driveshaft from an auto XJ (It's longer than the manual XJ) in the rear. I've got about 5" lift in the back running an XJ dana 44 with a AX-15 tranny and NP 231 t-case. I don't think the XJ front shaft would work with the HD SYE kit without having to be lengthened.

Here's why...

To ensure my rear shaft wasn't completely extended I had to leave my t-case output shaft LONGER than the directions specified. To mate the RE flange to the double cardan joint on the driveshaft you require a special spicer adapter flange which adds another 5/8" or so to the total driveshaft length. On top of all this the HD kits are generally shorter than the RE hack and tap kit. So, all things combined I bet the longest available XJ front driveshaft used in the rear would still be about 1.5" - 2" too short.

Now depending on tranny length variations between the BA 10/5, AX-15, NV 3500 and NV 3550 as well as the various t-case combos and axle pinion snout lengths and locations IT IS POSSIBLE that certain combo's may work...but I doubt it.
 
Bender said:
I'm running a RE hack n' tap with a front driveshaft from an auto XJ (It's longer than the manual XJ) in the rear. I've got about 5" lift in the back running an XJ dana 44 with a AX-15 tranny and NP 231 t-case. I don't think the XJ front shaft would work with the HD SYE kit without having to be lengthened.

I bet the longest available XJ front driveshaft used in the rear would still be about 1.5" - 2" too short.
Click to expand...

my tom woods SYE (basically just a hack and tap) was shorter (longer DS) than my HD AA SYE by almost 2".

in other words, a hack and tap requires a LONGER driveshaft than a heavy duty shaft (at least in my personal experience.) that woud explain why a front shaft is too short for your application.
 
Good info Sarvermr, I was under the impression that must HD SYE's were actually shorter in total length than the hack and tap style.

Are various HD SYE's different in total length?
 
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