98 XJ Steering Question

I have recently had problems with the steering in my 98 XJ Limited. I was locking up when returning to center from a right hand turn or while to turn left, and the locking was so bad that I couldn't get it to turn without swinging the wheel back to the right first. Both myself and my Father (who has a 90 XJ Larado with 274K on the clock, and had an 88 based 4.0l 4dr that was totaled at 210K) thought it was the steering box so I made an appointment at the Carmax I bought it AND the extended warranty at to have it fixed. When I dropped off the keys I put down that I want the old parts back. The called me and said the power steering pump was bad and I need to replace the front pads because they were down to bare metal and I needed a coolant flush (I have this on my voice mail through my cell phone, I made sure to save it). I told them that Dad and I could do the brakes and flush job, once they got the replacement pump installed in the truck they called me and told me that it was fixed and has stopped locking up, but the steering was kind of stiff and they weren't too sure why. I went to pick the truck up friday after work and checked to see if I could get it to lock up, and failed at that so I went to pay my $50 co-pay for the work and read that the brakes had at the most 5K left on them on the evaluation page (now this is where the down to bare metal message came back to me and I even metioned it to one of the emplyees that was still there). We went to leave and I popped the hood to see if any work was obvious, and found a re-man pump on the truck and no old pump in the back. I then went to leave and the steering was quite a bit stiffer that normal, enough that I immeadiatly metioned it to dad, and asked if I should leave it there and go back to have it looked at some more. He felt we should take it home since all it would do is sit on the lot there till monday. We took the wheels off today and noticed there was plenty of life left in them (atleast 5-10K in Dad's opinion) and that they were full metallic (I guess that could be why they said there was metal on metal contact), even still we decided to replace them anyway was well as the rear shocks (they've been acting like one blew out a couple of thou ago). We left to get the new parts and stopped at the local Napa Warehouse to get the shocks (Pep Boys was out of what I wanted). While I was being helped I noticed there was a Carmax mechanic there picking up parts for vehicles in for service. After the mechanic left I asked if they shopped in that store often and it seams they give them alot of business. After we got the brakes and shocks done and the tools cleaned up, I took it for a test drive. Dad noticed the Re-man pump was squealing as I backed out of the drive and the steering is still a little stiff as I drove it. Anybody run across this problem before with the steering? I'm thinking of calling on monday and raising a ruckus about the repair and the suggested brake job (and even taking in the old pads to show how much was left), and maybe even suggest they get the parts new from Mopar (which is what I would have done if I was fixing it fully on my own dime)

At first guess I would check the belt tension, bet they 'wing it' and don't use a tension gauge to get back to 160lbs which is the spec for a new belt run more than 15 min... Or they could have put the incorrect fluid in it... or BOTH

I don't know what the terms of your extended warranty say, but to me a "warranty" repair is made with new parts, not remanufactured. That explains why you didn't get the old pump -- the had to return it to get back the core charge.

Turn it left and right, from the center and look and see if your sector shaft, isn´t moving up and down, just a little, doesn´t take much. Same with the imput shaft, except it´s side play that causes binding.
I once went into a dealer, that refused to release my Jeep because of a bad, tie rod end. 130,000 miles later, it still shows no signs of wear.

Believe it or not, it's mentioned in the warranty contract as stock equivelent components, but you'd think they'ed want to do something to keep the vehicles resale value until I pay it off. Re-man parts are a turn off to me after what I've experienced on the two turbo mopars this Jeep replaced (a Carquest re-man starter kicked on while driving (bad solinoid, not the car like he tried to claim) and ended up frying the wires running to it before I could get it to someplace safe to disconect the battery! Luckily I smelled the insulation burning and shut it down before there was a fire )

They did put in what the owners manual said to put in (ie. not ATF), but they left the belt on from last year when I bought the truck (that wouldn't be covered under warranty due to it being a "wear item", also any warrantied parts taken out by it incase of a belt failure wouldn't be covered either).

Thanks for the advice on what to look at, I'll leave a little more instructions as what to look at when I drop the truck off.

And before I forget, I called and told him the re-man was giving up, and got a response that it's happened before ( :scared: ), I also told him I've never had much luck with re-mans and that I'm not all that fond of some Napa parts (I've had Mopar Hall Effect switches last years, yet last Napa one I had barely lasted 12 mo.s) either. All I got from him was a nervous laugh.

extendet warranty co.s dont like to pay more for a claim than necessary. if so how would they stay in business. they probably opted for a reman rather than a new one for that reason. i wuold take it back to the repair center and have them look at it again, but waive the deductable since the new problem occured after repairing the original complaint. who knows it could be a bad pump or your original was worn out and you slowly got used to it over time. even so, if they find another problem they should waive the deductable since you were just there.

I'm planning on insisting, I even wrote down the suggestions you guys gave me as well as to use Mopar replacement parts only, and to pay attention to the call times and to put ALL replaced parts in the back of the truck when completed. I think the original was somewhat worn, it had always been a bit stiffer that the other Jeeps we've owned (I've also had a '94 Grand Cherokee for a short time in '98, my little sister has a '92 Briarwood w/171K, and then Dad's two workhorse XJ's), but was something I never noticed because the Turbo cars were both rack and pinion steered with the largest offered size stock tires (the Lebaron had 205/60hr15 while the Shadow had 205/50(and 55)vr15 BFGs) and were pretty firm. This one they put on was just as bad as the last one, if not worse in some cases. Something my Dad and I were talking about on the drive home was that you'd think those kinds of actions would open them up to lawsuits from warranty holders like myself, or anybody who might be hit if this problem isn't fixed (in my case, I've had children and animals run out in front of me when I had my Shadow turbo, and the truck's steering can't keep up with me if I have to make an emergancy manuver). Sometime soon the whole family will be moving to Chattanooga, TN, and I REALLY don't want to worry about that pump giving out on one of those mountain roads late one night either. I may even through the brake pads in their faces if I have that opportunity (didn't have the that tonight). Thanks again. :wave1:

Well I just got the truck back and they put a new Mopar pump on the truck and checked out the box AGAIN. They couldn't find any problems with box, again and the new pump is alot quieter and doesn't seem to have to work as hard, unfortunetly I still do. The steering still is too stiff and doesn't like to be turned too fast, one of the complaints I returned it to them on Monday for. I need to drive it around the lot a few times before I go to pick up the key from the desk, I'm getting sick of running back and forth. I should make them reimburse me for the gas in Mom's van, Dad's '90, and my "98 that I've wasted (we're still at $1.93-$1.99 for regular).

Just a thought, but you may need to adjust the steering box preload. There's a allen screw on the top of the box for this. I've never actually done this myself, but several friends have had to adjust this after pump replacement on both XJ's and, er, *other* Jeeps.

HtH

Edit: Found the procedure for this in my FSM (89 XJ):

POWER STEERING GEAR - ADJUSTMENT
WARNING: Adjust the wormshaft bearing preload and pitman shaft overcenter drag torque in the order listed below. Failure to follow the procedures exactly may result in gear failure.

Ensure the wormshaft bearing adjustment cap is seated. Score an index mark on the steering gear housing adjacent to one of the spanner wrench tightening holes.
Measure counterclockwise 0.19–0.23 in. (5–6mm) from the index mark and score an adjustment reference mark on the housing. Rotate the adjustment cap counterclockwise until the spanner wrench tightening hole in the cap is aligned with the adjustment reference mark on the housing.
Install the adjustment cap locknut and tighten to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm). Ensure that the adjustment cap does not rotate. Rotate the stub shaft clockwise to the stop, then rotate it counterclockwise 1⁄4 of a turn.
Measure the preload torque by rotating at a constant speed with a inch pound torque wrench installed. It should be between 4–10 inch lbs.
Rotate the pitman shaft adjustment screw counterclockwise until it is fully extended, then rotate it 180°clockwise. Rotate the stub shaft from stop-to-stop counting the number of turns. Turn the wheel back, 1⁄2 the number of turns. Make sure the steering gear is centered. The flat area on the stub shaft should face upward and be parallel with the adjustment screw cover.
Measure the drag by rotating the stub shaft 45°on each side of vertical and record the highest drag torque measured at or near the steering gear center position.
Specifications are as follows:
New Gears: 4–8 inch lbs. greater than wormshaft bearing preload, to a maximum of 18 inch lbs.
Used Gears: 4–5 inch lbs. greater than wormshaft bearing preload, to a maximum of 18 inch lbs.
If necessary, rotate the pitman shaft adjustment screw until the correct torque is obtained. Tighten the locknut to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). DO NOT allow the adjustment screw locknut to rotate.

did they even do a pressure test to see if it is within specs. if so and it is you could have a bad steering box or a collapsed hose. i have also seen steering dampers make steering characteristics change. disconnect it and see how it steers.

I doubt they did any tests other that drive it around the lot. The damper was replaced befor they put it on the lot (probably the same time the brakes were installed)

does it only act up while turning in one direction. if so i bet the steering gear box is bad, because the pump pumps the same volume fluid wether turning right or left that eliminates the pump

I tried telling them that a week ago and he told me they'd "put the pump on if it and if it was the box I'd also get the pump", that was when that re-man was put on. It's still a little better going to the right that the left, but it's now just too stiff both ways compaired to the last 11 months since I bought it last June. Then yesterday, my boss all but told me it was what I get for not buying from a new car dealership, she kinda forgot that these are the only people that would give me a reasonable loan, since I had no credit at the time (don't even get me started on THAT), and after reading what 8MUD wroteI don't think that would necessarily work anyway. I was happy to be scedualed to go home earlier than normal at that point, without the excuse to stay late (Little sister's '92 was acting up, turns out the battery terminals were grungy, and the truck wouldn't start, a new one to me)

I picked up a new pump from the dealership and was told that all new Mopar pumps are rebuilt units.

As for the stiff steering, did Carmax adjust the preload on the box? I'd check for evidence that they did and also ask them. If they did, I'd have them make it right. If not, then perhaps there's air still in the pump. If no one messed with the preload I wouldn't begin playing with it.

Tom

if it is stiff in one direction adjusting preload on the gear box wont help, it will still be stiffer in one direction. take it back and insist on them replacing the steering gear box. it should be a covered component, they also should waive the deductible since it is still not fixed. we work with car max warranties also, there should be no problem. they would have to keep the old parts if there, isnt a core charge, in case they get audited by the warranty company. that way they can prove the job has been done and not scamming the warranty company.

I've given up on Carmax's ability to do repairs and have talked to a Jeep dealer a mile from the store I work at about taking a look at the truck and if they are willing to deal with MaxCare, and visa-versa. I'm going to try to make an appointment for Monday and have them see what they can find.. Carmax is all but theatening to make me pay for them take the box apart if they can't find a problem with it, and I'm tempted to see what the dealer finds, and if they actually find a problem, go back to Carmax when it's fixed and demand my $50 co-pay back for my troubles (and maybe gas for the two XJ's and the van). They've done little to fix the problem, it has since begun to steer to the right ok but once it heats up to what should be normal temps, is when the left turns give me problems, it feels like something is being pinched between gears or sudden fluid loss when the wheel is turned a half rotation (the airbag upside down with the spokes near the top of the dash, and I appologise on how I've described that, I work in a hobby shop and I'm used to describing carb needle setting for nitro cars). Dad kind of figures they don't want to have to pay to replace a $456 box so thats why they've done what they have to this point.

Before I finish this, I have to thank everybody for what they've been able to suggest, I am very appreciative of all your help.

the dealer should accept car max warranty. all they need is the policy number and the 800 number, they will call them with what they find and they usually pay with a credit card number over the phone if they dont already have an account with them. what kind of deal can i get on nitro car parts, i need a new pull start , muffler, and the holder for the 4 aa batteries in my hpi rtr.

I've made an appointment for monday morning, with any luck they'll find the problem I've been telling Carmax was there. Which HPI do you have? I've got a Traxxas Bandit, Stampede, Electric 4-Tec, Nitro 4-Tec, a Losi Mini-T, and a Bolink Legends car.

i have the hpi rtr murcielacgo but i installed the bmw m3 body. i would really like to have the savage 21. good luck on the jeep.

Thanks, hope it won't be necessary.

Hope you get the Savage, every body I talk to has told me stories of just incredible durability, well exept for the one ways, they've been having cracking problems. From what they told the assistant manager, those were over hardened and are a bit brittle when using the Roto-Start, or a drill with the start shaft.