• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

The front leaf spring thread. who's doing it now? what have you learned?

BrettM

NAXJA Forum User
Location
michifornia
I've read in the last few days at least 5 people say they are doing front leaf conversions, and at least 5 people have done it in the past year. I did this almost a year ago when only a few other people had done it, so I didn't have a whole lot of ideas to steal.

-So, post up if you have done the conversion, tell us what changes you've made or what you would have done differently.

-Post up if you're planning on doing this conversion in the near future (HTeK, dennisuello, etc) and tell us what you've learned from others that have done it. Tell us of any new ideas you've had.

Lets keep this thread purely to front leafs, and not debating whether leafs or coils are better/cheaper/less work/etc. that's been beat to death. :twak:

and just for fun:
CRASH said:
Leaf springs are for covered wagons
 
I am planning on this mod in the future also. Thanks Bret for bringing this up.
What leafs is everyone using(Waggy's, 44044, ??'s). How did you make the front shackle?

thanks

Wade(now a member!!)
 
and just to get it started, here's a picture of mine (when it was 90% done) click on it to see full-size


I used a 1980 Wagoneer D44
-welded on SOA perches
-cut and turned the knuckles (easier than most make it out to be)
-got a flat-top knuckle and run crossover with a Part Mike arm (www.partsmikeparts.com)
-run 3.5" front YJ springs from BDS which were 60-some-dollars each, are military wrapped on both ends, and have a lifetime no questions asked warantee
-shackle forward
-front crossmember is 4x4x1/4 angle that attaches with 13(?) bolts including all bumper/towhook bracket bolts, swaybar mount bolts, steering box bolts, etc.
-rear hangers built of 1/4 steel and welded to "frame"
-roughly 7 inches of lift, maybe closer to 8"


It all works very well and walked through every hard line on Fordyce Creek trail.

Future plans:

-Hydro-assist, to help keep steering forces off the leafs and off uni-body.
-after hydro-assist, I may put a trackbar (panhard) on it, but I'll decide after wheelin it with just the hydro-assist.
 
onetallmj said:
I am planning on this mod in the future also. Thanks Bret for bringing this up.
What leafs is everyone using(Waggy's, 44044, ??'s). How did you make the front shackle?

thanks

Wade(now a member!!)
44044s are great springs, but since they have gotten so popular have become overpriced, usaully $120 or more per spring. I really like my BDS springs.

For the shackle, I used a stock rear type shackle, it's 4 inch center to center, I think it's an MJ shackle or a Chevy shackle. I like this style because you can setup 1/4 plate for you shackle hangar then drill and re-drill holes wherever you need to move the shackle around.

Just so everyone knows, you can use free picture hosting in the Uploads section of www.XJDB.com (thanks again Billy!)
 
i plan on doing it this summer. so far the plan is as follows:

- use my rear 4.5" RE springs in the front, run them backwards (the longer section towards the back)
- front crossmember bolted to the front, incorporating c-rok plate and bumper mounts
- shackle mounts bolted to the front crossmember
- angle iron plated "frame"
- spring hangers welded to the "frame"
 
I would recommend against running an XJ spring in the front unless you're planning on running a trackbar. I originally had mine setup with MJ main leafs, and with leafs that long there is too much side-to-side movement with all the steering forces. With shorter YJ or Waggy leaves, this isn't too much of a problem.
 
BrettM said:
I would recommend against running an XJ spring in the front unless you're planning on running a trackbar. I originally had mine setup with MJ main leafs, and with leafs that long there is too much side-to-side movement with all the steering forces. With shorter YJ or Waggy leaves, this isn't too much of a problem.

i hate trackbars. :D
 
Last edited:
JeepFreak21 said:
HERE are some more front leaf conversion pictures. :greensmok
Billy
at least 2 of those have Chevy frames attached to XJ bodies, not sure I would call that a leaf conversion... and this one looks to be running Skyjacker front suspension and i don't see any leafs hanging out front:
xj0193.thumb.jpg


thanks for all the pics though, but I noticed my MJ didn't come up in that search?
 
I'll be doing it this summer as well. Currently setting up gears in my hp44 front axle. Detroit, 5.13s, double-ended steering arms. I plan on fabbing a simple crossmembers/shackle hanger and either making or buying slightly extended Wrangler shackles. I'll be running 44044s I picked up cheap on Pirate. Beyond that I'll cut whatever's necessary to fit the 37s.
dion
 
BrettM said:
I would recommend against running an XJ spring in the front unless you're planning on running a trackbar. I originally had mine setup with MJ main leafs, and with leafs that long there is too much side-to-side movement with all the steering forces. With shorter YJ or Waggy leaves, this isn't too much of a problem.

i might end up with Waggys. i just need to figure out which ones i will need for 8-10" lift.

i've got my 14bolt and front 60, which needs to be assembled (knuckles, gears locker) and set-up for high steer. will stay full-width, run Detroits front/rear and 38x13x16 TSLs on 16x8 steel wheels with 4" or 5" BS.
 
Blatant: are you sure the double ended steering arm will work with a HP D44? I was under the impression they only work with LP D44s because the tie-rod has to go above the pinion?

Dennis: I had stock Waggys in at one time and they were about 6 inches of lift, 3.5" YJ springs give 7-8 inches. So I would think you're best with 4.5" YJ springs (RE) which should give 8-9 inches, or BDS makes 4" Waggy springs which should give about 10": http://www.bds-suspension.com/suspensionsystems_5jeep.html
 
Brett: Sure? Nope, not at all. My friend and I made the double-ended arms on the hp60 on my last rig (tie rod behind pumpkin), so I was making an assumption the 44 arms would work in a similar fashion.
dion
 
i definitely remember reading that about the Rockstomper double arms, but there's only one way to find out for sure. you coud put some bends in your tie-rod to clear the pinion if necessary, as long as it's heavy tube and still clears the oil-pan.
 
started on the front crossmember last night. i am using 4x4x1/4 angle that will be tied to c-rok plate on one side and matching plate on the other side, all welded together and bolted to the "frame" and what's left of the stock front crossmember. will post pics once it's on the jeep.
 
did it, like it, simplicity was my reason and also budget. hindsight i would have strengthened a few things at first. overall, the only thigns i need to change right now are new leaves (mine are wore out from so many trips), and maybe different front shackles. overall i love it, has been tellico tested and approved.

edit: lol jeepfreak, you've got both my jeeps on there when they were in decent condition, i've only had the new one done for about 2 months and i've already dented just about every panel pretty badly, lost the mirrors and cut more than i had originally on front haha
 
Last edited:
Back
Top