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I would like to know what could possibly be causing this, the air-conditon on all settings only blow from the de-fog vents under the windshield. What could I possibly do or check in lieu of correcting this problem.
Vacumn leak, start hunting, check the line under the battery that goes to the vac blimp behind the bumper, battery splooge leaks down on it and eats it up. Look for disconnected hoses, cracks. Can be checked with a carb spray, engine idle will sometimes change, when you spray it you find it... sometimes.
If you dont find a vac leak,check the small vac line running inside the dash near the heater hoses.It should have a check valve in it remove it and check it ,you should be able to blow thru it one way & not the other.
the check valve is located at the intake manifold. if that was bad you would loose vacuum under load like when accelerating hard and then it would switch to defrost
so i'm reviving this thread from the dead and I apologize but I just got my jeep back from having someone else replacing the heater core and hoses-bad idea in the first place, I just didn't have time to do it myself like normal and I loathe heater core replacement more than any job in the world (even shoveling feces.) But now i am having the issue below except I don't think the check valve is bad, there aren't any vacuum leaks that I can find. How do I test the check valve? when I pulled the vacuum line of the check valve it seem like my engine ran easier... like it just lightened the load on it.
The shop made me pretty pissed so I don't really want to go back there unless there is major warranty work to be done. like tear the dash back off again.
Its way to effin hot to be dealing with this mid summer.
the check valve is located at the intake manifold. if that was bad you would loose vacuum under load like when accelerating hard and then it would switch to defrost
where are those located, so far I have found one vacuum line disconnected, to a small valve underneath the coolant reservoir. but it did nothing to solve my problem.
so i'm reviving this thread from the dead and I apologize but I just got my jeep back from having someone else replacing the heater core and hoses-bad idea in the first place, I just didn't have time to do it myself like normal and I loathe heater core replacement more than any job in the world (even shoveling feces.) But now i am having the issue below except I don't think the check valve is bad, there aren't any vacuum leaks that I can find. How do I test the check valve? when I pulled the vacuum line of the check valve it seem like my engine ran easier... like it just lightened the load on it.
The shop made me pretty pissed so I don't really want to go back there unless there is major warranty work to be done. like tear the dash back off again.
Its way to effin hot to be dealing with this mid summer.
Remove it. With your mouth, try to suck air through it from both directions. You should be able to do so one way but not the other. If you can both ways, it's broken. Install the side you can suck through towards the engine. Ignore the engine running "easier." It's just idling higher because when you take it out, you just created a vacuum leak.
Check the Vac. "bottle" behind the rear bumper on the passanger side. Be sure line is connected and the "bottle" is still there. I've heard of people removeing them.
HTH
vac "bottle" or ball is still there in my case I moved it a while back when I put a new bumper on. thanks guys I'll be checking these out tomorrow morn.
yeah- vacuum leak high idle, figured that but I figured I'd give all the details just incase.
so the vac bottle is working correctly, still cannot find any leaks, can some one tell me what the check valve looks like and where on the manifold it is located. because what I thought was it was just a pass through "nipple connection for the vac line of the vacuum bottle.
You should post up the year, it makes it easier for us. If it's your 89 I also have one that had the same problem. There were two kinds of vac. bottles. 'peanut' shaped with cruise control and 'ball' w/o. I bypassed the original bumper bottle and zip tied a 'ball' on top of the "Relay Center". The only check valve on mine is between the ball and the firewall, nothing from the manifold to vac. bottle. Also the vac. lines are much shorter, only about 18 inches from ball to dash now and under 4 feet manifold to bottle.
yeah it is my 89 with the ball and the vacuum disconnect d30 and mine is also zip tied on the relay center but the vac lines have not been made shorter. i just wrapped them in a circle. what does the check valve look like? I still have no clue, is it blue and connected to some wiring? or does it run into some lines that connect to the t-case?
I'm sure they are similar, but not very similar. There were a lot of changes from renix to the H.O.
I have looked at everything short of tearing of the dash on mine, what I have found is:
I had one vac line disconnected, it went to a small unidentified electronic located under the coolant res. reconnected and no dice
My heater control valve was not replaced, (though I asked them too-go figure). Could a bad hcv cause this or would it just make the ac blow hot (not a symtom... i dont think)
okay so news is, there is a four or five pack of color coded vac lines right by my coolant tank/evap system, most of which run to the transfer case (231 vac disco) the idiots disconnected my 4wd too (thats what i apparantly fixed in a previous post when I said I found one line disconnected)
anyway the BLUE vac line w/ some kind of valve on the end no longer has anything to connect to. [edit: valve shape like disk w/ male connectors on eith side] I've searched high and low and cant seem to figure out where it used to go,
anyone know whats up with this? I cant find any vac diagrams either so if anyone knows where to find those that might be helpful and I would owe you many many beers, assuming your over 21
