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broken 4,0 engine mount

belfer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Poland
It was over a year ago. Three bolts keeping engine mount on engine block just cracked and whole engine fell on subframe (right hand side). It probably caused some shortcut which led to fire in the engine compartment. What could has been the reason of bolts cracking?
 
I had that happen TWICE on my 95' i had to pull the entire engine out of the jeep to get the sheared bolts out of the block. I hope someone else on here has another way, but that's what it took me...I did not have any fires, but my fan got mangled from hitting the frame when the engine dropped. Where was the fire in the engine compartment? My bolts sheared just from stress... they broke the first time when i was jumping train tracks at 70mph, the second time i was driving up a hill... Good Luck, hopefully you will not have to remove the engine.
 
I had it happen last year wihle driving at night about 90 miles from home.

I was able to release the other motor mount and jack up the whole engine about 2" enough to get at the bolts then I used an 90* angle drill to use the
new craftsman easy out system to remove the broken bolts took all of 5 minutes.

I replaced the bolts with grade 8 and have been watching both sides since.
 
I have heard that using an engine mount like the MORE one can cause this. To remedy this, I welded on some additional steel to the OEM engine-side brackets (the ones those 3 bolts go through) to pick-up the pre-threaded holes on the block. The thought is to spread the shearing force through more points than the 3 OEM bolts.

If you guys are using the OEM engine mounts, I don't know what to tell you.

BTW: I replaced those OEM bolts with grade 8.
 
I have broken the right side bolts on my 97 and I have never jumped it. replaced with grade 8 bolts the first time and still broke. if you remove the motor mount bracket on the frame you can get to the bolts with a 90 degree drill and ez out the bolts. make sure you support the motor with a jack. hope someone can come up with a cure
 
The same thing happened to my 95. All three bolts sheared on one side. You DON'T need to pull the engine or to use a drill. Get, borrow, buy, or steal a MIG welder and weld a blob of metal to whatever is still visible of the screws. Then using vicegrips, grab the blob and unscrew the bolts. Someone from this site suggested this to me and it worked like a charm and was VERY easy! Get grade 8 bolts...
Good luck.
Mikel
 
Mikel said:
The same thing happened to my 95. All three bolts sheared on one side. You DON'T need to pull the engine or to use a drill. Get, borrow, buy, or steal a MIG welder and weld a blob of metal to whatever is still visible of the screws. Then using vicegrips, grab the blob and unscrew the bolts. Someone from this site suggested this to me and it worked like a charm and was VERY easy! Get grade 8 bolts...
Good luck.
Mikel
Grade 8 is not the way to go, they have really poor shearing power which is why winches come equipped with grade 5's. Grade 5's will 'give' grade 8's 'break'...
Grade 8 applications are for stright up and down like head bolts and such, motor mount bolts have to provide strength sideways, 8's won't do that..
 
Happened on my 95 passenger side about 6 months ago. It was a DD...no idea what caused that. I said to hell with it and had a shop near work do the job. It was cold, rainy, and I didn't have the resources. No biggie, took $145 and they put new ones on the driver's side as well.

Interesting about the extra holes. I'm going to have to see what mine looks like.

Are we seeing a trend here with 95s? I wonder if this was a bolt issue...maybe a bad lot? Granted we're only talking about a few of them on this thread, but I just think it's ironic.
 
JeepinAudiophile said:
I had that happen TWICE on my 95' i had to pull the entire engine out of the jeep to get the sheared bolts out of the block. I hope someone else on here has another way, but that's what it took me...I did not have any fires, but my fan got mangled from hitting the frame when the engine dropped. Where was the fire in the engine compartment? My bolts sheared just from stress... they broke the first time when i was jumping train tracks at 70mph, the second time i was driving up a hill... Good Luck, hopefully you will not have to remove the engine.
I don't know exactly where the fire started. Engine wiring harness was nearly completly burnt. Also air filter cover, air hose, CCV and EGR hoses, fluid reservoirs. Car was taken to the shop where they removed the engine, drilled out sheared bolts and rethreaded the holes. Now I'm waiting for last missing part-ECU. I had to order it in US.
 
I've had this happen twice on the pass side with my 96 (mfd' Jan 96) the original motor mounts dont look worn, but......they flex like crazy, I suspect a bolt worked loose and the combination of a very long weekend of wheeling, some in deep sand/mud, I felt some vibration then.... going over a rail crossing a little fast finished them the first time, the second time, I know that i hit a pothole way too fast ,(duh) I replaced the flexy stock mounts with More's new style mounts,(softer rubber) so far, so good. I was told emphatically by several techs NOT to use grade 8 bolts in that spot, because of their location, and what a pain they are to remove, and how hard it would be to get a grade 8 bolt drilled out to replace it.....Hadnt thought about the shear forces, but that is just another very good reason not to use grade 8 bolts. I saw a couple of friends xj's - they swapped in zj mounts, they are much better, even though I don't know much else about the mod, I suspect it couldnt be too hard to figure it out.
 
about the 95 model year trend.

I went to look at a 1995 Cherokee se with a 4 liter a while ago. The owner complained of a "skip". Anyone with a brain could see that the pass. side motoer mount had sheared right off the block. The motor had also overheated bad and warped the head. The aux. fan didn't find its way back into the XJ after a local "shop" put a new radiator in it.

So thats my experience with a mt. ripping off the block. just happens to be a 95. I have a 1994 with 128,000 on the 4liter. Is there anything I should do precaution wise???
 
my 1996 broke a mounting bolt. snapped it on the engine side. the shop had to drill it and rethread. Not a good day for the cherokee. I just bought it a week before. ug. still love it. oh ya it only had 36k on it. What is going on here?
 
Concerning the mounts, I replaced worn OEMs with polybushes where instead of big triangular rubber is only poly tube in piece of steel pipe.
 
Happened to my 89 on the passenger side a couple of yrs ago due to a bad drivers side mount - cracked rubber- that allowed engine to over rotate from drivers side to passenger side when reved up thereby stressing the passenger side mount bolts. They drilled it out w. 90 degree drill and eaze outs. When my engine dropped it caused the ground strap at back of the head to snap. It ran after repair because ground strap was dangling on engine but some times I would hit a bump and ground strap would bounce off engine and kill it. Took a month to find the problem and the dealer tried but did not find it. Greg
 
I tried grade 8 and grade 5 all broke again, now trying stainless. There should be a recall on this problem. seems to be 1995-1997 5 speed. Contact the dot and make a complaint if enough people do it they will have to recall the bracket or repair it somehow..
 
This same thing happened to the passenger side of my jeep three times!
It is a 95 Cherokee with an automatic that is babied and never driven offroad.
This is a very poor design!
Tried both grade 5 and 8.
Its sounds a little hardcore,but 75,000 miles ago I replaced the bolts and actually welded the the lower motor mount bracket to the engine block.
No more shearing!
I agree there should be a recall.
 
yep, same thing on my 94....twice it's just gotta be some kinda flaw in the design
 
Looks like it's not just the 94-97's

Mine did the same thing the other day, was driving home at night and hit a rain gutter in the intersection doing the speed limit of 35mph and heard a loud pop which sounded like it was in the back. But was 20 miles from home and other than the fact that I couldnt use 5th gear or reverse, the jeep drove home normally, albeit I drove EXTREMELY carefully until I could inspect the damage.

Seems to be a poor design.

This was on a '90 Cherokee
200,000 miles on it
No clue if this has happened before, I've only owned the thing for the last 15-20 k miles (3 years) But will be something that I will be watching for as this is my DD and not exactly in a position to be dropping to much cash on this repair.

-Holy_Handgrenade
 
It just happened to my '96. Passenger side.
I plan to use grade 8 till I get OEM replacements.
I guess I'm going to have to buy a 90 degree attachment for my drill.
 
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