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xj build up, does this sound right?

F

flamn79cj7

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CLERMONT, FLORIDA
im starting my build on a 99 xj. heres the list so far. what did i forget?
5.5" rubicon express lift
r.e. slip yoke ellim.
cv driveshaft - rear
drop pitmen arm
33x12.5 bfg mt's
4.56 gears
terra low kit for transfer case
using stock steel wheels
need a winch bumper for my warn HS9500
skid plates will be added later
also still deciding on rear locker for the 8.25

i retired the cj and taking over the wifes xj so im trying to figure out whats best. i have about $6000 to play with and i want to do it right the first time! oh by the way it a 99 with 4.0, auto tranny, 8.25 rear. i guess im getting old and weak cause an air cond. automatic, daily driver and wheeler is starting to sound preaty good to me!!
 
6k is more than enough to make an absolute rock eater. Got about 8k in mine and can still drive it to work a few days a week. Though I only get about 12 miles to the gallon now.
Dont forget:
Adjustable track bar, W/heim joint.
Track bar bracket.
A steer box brace is a good investment.
Front disconnects.
Upgrade the battery wiring for the winch.
Remove the rear sway bar.
You might need 3 degree shims for the springs.
A set of shackles will help the back stuff a little better.
Tow hook brackets help distribute the load of the new bumper when you get to it.
Be aware of the Back Spacing on the stock rims with 12.5" wide tires. Likely to loose turning radius.

My two cents.

Derik
01 XJ, 8+ lift, 35x12.5 TrXus on AR-767s, D-44 rear, 4.56s, detroits front and back.
www.hardrockcrawlers.org/clubrigs.html
 
the stock rims are just a cost saving thing for now, i know they are a little narrow for the 12.5's. i think the front disconects come with the lift as well as a track bar relocation.? i think the kit also includes rear extended shackles. i didnt think about the adjustable track bar. thanks for bring that up, ill have to add it to the list as well as the shims. sorry no front locker for now, i think it will see more street than trail so im skipping it for no. im afraid the 35's will be too big with out trimming and i think the 33's will be happier around town and on the highway. becides my old cj was locked with 33's and i went anywhere the guys with 37's went. you just have to pick your line a little more carfully!! smaller tires make for beter drivers!!!{both the vehicle and the person}
 
Don't need the drop pitman arm. Order the JKS sway bar disconnects (the RE system is a joke) I run 32" tires with the 4:56 and love the combo.
Running a detroit locker (well....I'm running them both front and rear) will be great. You notice a bit of a push in corners but nothing that will bug you.
(Whats funny here is that I just got the R&P and lockers done and I'm talking as though I know them inside and out :D ) Okay....I have taken them out three times so far...and just can't believe how much fun I'm having with the set'up.
Good luck
Rick
 
i wouldnt be suprised if your rear tires rub on your leaves, on mine i have less than an inch between the two and that is with 10.50's
 
just make your own steering box brace
 
flamn79cj7 said:
add the steer box brace, jks discon., now can someone second the tire thing rubbing the springs? i didnt want to spend cash on rims if i didnt have too!
Click to expand...

two have already said it.
 
i read somewhere else 4.5" back spaceing? that should keep the tires off the springs and save the turning radias? how far will they stick out past the body with this set up? or are wider flares in the picture now also? how about running 33x10.5's?
 
With 33x 10.5 tires, 4.75 to 4.5 inch back space will work just fine. 4.5 inch might contact the stock flares if you are keeping them.

With 12.5 wide tires, the more you can push the tires outside the fender well the better your turning radius will be. (by the way, 35x12.5 tires on 8 inch rims with 4.75 inch back space did not contact my rear springs. i just couldn't turn anymore.) Down side is you will need to cut a bit (even with 33's) and if required in your area, cover the rubber with new flares.

Oh yeah, and don't forget the Rock Rails. MOST important! I went with Daystar Four Real tubes. But anything that is tight to the body will work.

www.hardrockcrawlers.org/clubrigs.html

Derik
 
Rusty's 6.5" Long travel kit-------------------------------$1600
JB Conversions 231HD w/super short sye and driveshaft----$1265
C-Rok s/box/frame kit------------------------------------$80
Wheels/Tires-------------------------------------------@$700
Gears/lockers-------------------------------------------@$1000 (no labor)
BPI winch bumper-----------------------------------------$389
BPI rear Bumper-------------------------------------------$378
JKS Supernerfs--------------------------------------------$340

Grand Total-----------------------------------------------$5752

:cheers:
 
although the 8.25 might hold up with those 33's, you will be cutting it close with a locker or 35's. i would ditch the 8.25 and get a ford 8.8 with disc brakes...and limited slip if you can find it. And invest in a front locker as well with the extra money from getting the limited slip stock. Dont forget engine upgrades as well. Exhaust, headers, intake, etc. Protofab4x4.com has some very sturdy bumpers for a great price. Thats were I got my pre runner. They have a winch mount front bumper that looks bad ass for about 350. Also, if your carrying a spare, where are you going to mount it?
 
Forgot to add...dont get expensive aluminum or chrome rims...get black steelies...40 bucks a piece and they are strong as hell. Just cut back on your food for a week...and use that money.
 
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