rear shackle hanger idea

dennisuello · May 26, 2004

do you think this will work? will run regular style shackle (CJ, YJ) or will it add extra stress to the shackle box?

JeepFreak21 · May 26, 2004

dennisuello said:
do you think this will work? will run regular style shackle (CJ, YJ) or will it add extra stress to the shackle box?

Will that go up inside the shackle box? I've been trying to figure out an easy way to do that for a while now. I can't figure out how to get the hole to line up inside the box.
Billy

Starboard M · May 26, 2004

Are you just going to bolt it in? Wouldn't it rotate around the bolt? What would this do, besides give you lift? It seems like to much trouble just to run CJ/YJ shackles.

dennisuello · May 26, 2004

Starboard M said:
Are you just going to bolt it in? Wouldn't it rotate around the bolt? What would this do, besides give you lift? It seems like to much trouble just to run CJ/YJ shackles.

those holes on the front side are to bolt through the front of the stock shackle box. the idea is to run flatter spring (like a 4-5") and still gain more lift to have total 8-10" to clear 38s.

CRASH · May 26, 2004

I just welded them in. That was 2.5 years ago, on a VERY abused XJ, no trouble in the ensuing years.

I duplicated the idea on the new chassis.

CRASH

andyr354 · May 26, 2004

its been done many times with welded on plates. run a search and should find some of them.

gearwhine · May 26, 2004

JeepFreak21 · May 26, 2004

I just don't trust my welding in that perticular spot, but maybe I'll make the plate and stop by URF sometime to have it burned in.
Billy

Jump This · May 26, 2004

Both pics look good enough for me!
But I can weld....sooooooo. I think crashessesses idea will work fine.
BTW how much lift with just your box-out set up? 2~3"?
I could eliminate my damn lift block if I can set it up that way...
Rick

CRASH · May 26, 2004

I think the bottom of the shackle moves down 4 inches, so 2" of lift or so.

CRASH

gearwhine · May 26, 2004

Watch pinion angle as well. You may need to remove shims/add shims backwards etc. Mine was no problem as I was welding new perches on anyway.

starboard:

I did this to run a better shackle angle and to get the full movement of the shackle without it hitting the shackle box...there are no restrictions here. My shackle angle in the pic is no good because it's unloaded, the axle is just hanging there. When it's on the ground, it's about the same as crash's. Mine bolts up tightly in there...no slop at all, and then I have 2 stitch welds just to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

Starboard M · May 27, 2004

gearwhine said:
starboard:

I did this to run a better shackle angle and to get the full movement of the shackle without it hitting the shackle box...there are no restrictions here. My shackle angle in the pic is no good because it's unloaded, the axle is just hanging there. When it's on the ground, it's about the same as crash's. Mine bolts up tightly in there...no slop at all, and then I have 2 stitch welds just to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

With pics I see how it works. I was thinking that the box would be used as a shackle plus the CJ shackle. Looks like a very good idea,but with my welding I would never try to do it :dunce:

Capt. Nemo · May 27, 2004

I'll be doing something similar this Friday. Some of the first batches of FT's Long Arm kits had springs that were too long. FT is sending out new springs that are the correct length, but they weren't able to get the replacement ones to me before I head out to the Rubicon the first week of June. My shackles are resting on the rear frame rail with my rig loaded with tools, etc.

Soooo, all that to say that I'm doing something similar except that it will be bolt on so that I can take it off if I want without damaging aything. It will also move the shackle mount down and back to compensate for the longer springs.

andyr354 · May 27, 2004

I think I am gonna go with something similar to gearwhine's, but extend it back and also bolt it to the rear bumper. Weld a piece of angle on the back of the bumper to bolt to.

dennisuello · May 27, 2004

what about mounting shackle mounts to the bumper and running a longer spring (MJ maybe?)

something like this:

andyr354 · May 27, 2004

problem is keeping the rear wheel centered in the opening. If you wanna completely cut the rear 1/4 pannels out and build new wells, it has been done.

Capt. Nemo · May 28, 2004

On steep drop offs, I would want the rocks to hit something else first. With that set up, the shackles are the last thing down and will get nailed. I suppose if you were up high enough it wouldn't matter :laugh3:

andyr354 · May 28, 2004

I got to thinking about that last night as well. Might just listen to goatmans advice and run some lift blocks with a traction bar. Time to search for traction bar designs!

dennisuello · May 29, 2004

my goal is to run 38s with about 8" lift, with that height i would need to worry about hitting the shackles too often.

PWRDrill · May 29, 2004

Does anybody make these for sale? I rather purchase from a tried and true design than come up with something on my own. (and I don't have a welder).

Kevin

rear shackle hanger idea

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