Header Install Difficulty?

Hey Guys,
This summer I was thinking I could install a header on my jeep. I was planning on going with either Borla or Banks. As I'm not made of money, I was thinking of installing it myself. I'm curious how difficult this install is. I know they are two completely different things but I installed my water pump this weekend, how would that compare in difficulty with it?

Thanks,
Kevin

Basic hand tool and patience type job, watch the studs on the end they can break off, check them first to make sure they aren't already broken before you start. Even the first one I did only took about 2.5 hours. most shops the labor will probably cost more than the header.

I like Borla only because it comes with a new down pipe.

I need to take out the air box, ps pump, intake manifold, and anything connected to it then I can get to the exhaust manifold? How much of a pain can it be if the stud breaks? I asked my dad about if they broke off in the engine and he gave me a dirty look and said it'd be a bitch and we'd have to drill and tap. Are the chances pretty low that they're broke, the engine is almost 9 months old.

Thanks,
Kevin

verrive said:

I asked my dad about if they broke off in the engine and he gave me a dirty look and said it'd be a bitch and we'd have to drill and tap. Thanks,
Kevin

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Bah, drill and Heli-coil. If you own a Jeep a good investment is a Heli-coil kit. Heli-coil would be a lot stronger than the original threads anyway.

I put Borla headers on a 94', and it wasn't that bad. It took us most of a day, simply because we had to remove the entire fuel injection system, the manifold and the stock exhaust manifold. Nothing too bad, just a lot of wrench turning. Keep track of all the parts, because you take a lot off. If you don't have one already, get a Haynes or Chilton teardown manual. They are a tremendous help, and they lead you through the steps. Great add on, good sound and some more power!

For someone doing it for a first time what's a good time to give? I would set aside a day but without snags what kinda time frame would I be looking at?

- Kevin

Every time I try something the first time it takes 3 hours longer than I originally figured would be the worst case....and that is if I don't end up having to get a real mechanic to bail me out. Let us know how it goes
because it is on my "to do" list also. I have the famous XJ cracked
headder syndrome.

N5KU said:

I have the famous XJ cracked
headder syndrome.

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sorry to hijack. my 94 had that problem, now i have a 99. was wondering if they ever fixed that

The classaction lawsuit I've seen around includes 1991-1999 so I think you may be in the same boat as before

- Kevin

I have a 95 and my manifold hasn't cracked yet. I've got a buddy who's got I believe a 99 or 00' and his cracked the other day. :dunno: Maybe i'm lucky...

Whatever you do, DO NOT use an easy-out if you break a bolt, easy-outs are also known as 'how to make a difficult job a nitemare' tool. If you break a header bolt just drill it out and retap it, if you break an easy-out you have to do the same thing only on a much harder steel. To drill out a broken header bolt, 15 minutes, to drill out a broken easy-out, 2-3 HOURS and alot of drill bits...
If you have a digital camera take pictures before you start and at each stage of a major removal of a part. No camera, make drawings and label brackets and such with a number or letter in chalk, facing up, so you have a general idea of how it goes back on.
Personally I'd also pickup a Factory service manual before I started... I won't even go into how many times that FSM has saved my butt showing me how something goes back together and couple that with my digital camera I'm ready for anything pretty much....
Just my .02

As for the helicoil thing, alot of people don't realize that alot of professional race cars, engines and stuff that go thru alot of stress and such, are made of aluminum get helicoils FROM THE FACTORY. Alot of engine builders use helicoils in the engines for two reasons, strength and ease of replacment. Strip a helicoil thread and all you have do is break the little tab off and pull it out then insert a new one vs drilling then tapping. Helicoils are good

it is pretty striaght forward if you have any sort of mechanical abilities, I don't see any need for pics, trying to remember how many bolts, the power steering res/pump only needs to be moved out of the way.

As far as breaking one off, I've replaced 3 studs to date, forget the easy out and just drill and put in a helicoil, you will need a right angle drill most likely air and a number of bits you are willing to cut down as there is really no room towards the engine firewall.

Don't expect any great power gains either unless you manifold was leaking severely, as the factory used a tubular manifold anyways, oh and spend the money to buy a NAPA gasket, the ones that come with the headers typically suck ass.

Haven't had a chance to get a good look although what I've seen doesn't look to good. Pretty sure it's the original manifold so it's coming up on 13 years pretty soon so I figure I may as well do it when I've got the time, school takes up sooooo much time

- Kevin

RichP said:

Whatever you do, DO NOT use an easy-out if you break a bolt, easy-outs are also known as 'how to make a difficult job a nitemare' tool. If you break a header bolt just drill it out and retap it, if you break an easy-out you have to do the same thing only on a much harder steel. To drill out a broken header bolt, 15 minutes, to drill out a broken easy-out, 2-3 HOURS and alot of drill bits...

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I second that motion..I replaced the manifold on my wife's 94, the number one stud was already broken off. I broke 3 progressively larger EZouts. I ended up drilling and tapping the hole inplace. If I had done that first I could saved 6 hours of cussing and bleeding. on my 88 I just drilled and retapped the hole.

Get a 9/16 ratchet wrench (It will be your new best friend)

BTW an HO head is easier than the Renix head.
Because the HO the factory exhaust manifold seems to give a bit more hand clearance between it and the block. It took only 45 minutes to get both of the manifolds off of my 94, the only tools I had to use on the manifold bolts was the ratchet wrench.
It took 3 hours on my 88 this weekend just to get the freaking thing off.

so what size drill and tap does it take to do the repair of a broken stud.



Thanks

jjvande said:

so what size drill and tap does it take to do the repair of a broken stud.
Thanks

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I'll get flamed for it but I just used 3/8-16 tap.
I drilled a bit off center so I got some of the old stud and some of the head threaded.
I also pulled the number 1 headbolt so I wouldn't drill into it.
I just used a reugular old grade 5 bolt with a spare exhaust manifold washer I had laying around.
Ideally you should us a helicoil so you will be 100% in the head.
But I'm lazy and didn't have a parts runner available to get the helicoil set for me.
As an update I have 5K miles on the HO fix and 100 miles on the renix since I did it they haven't stripped, lossened, or sheared off yet.

What year do you have? I put the Banks header on my 97 last year. It wasn't too bad. It did take all day though. I have pics of the install somewhere. Another handy tool is the fuel line disconnect tool ($5 or so). The instructions called for disconnecting the driver's side motor mount. I imagine that might give you a little more room to wrench, but I didn't bother. There's also a 2001 FSM floating around online somewhere. That was very helpful. Haynes sucks, don't waste your money.
If you got any ?s you can PM me.

Good luck

Deyman

yuppiexj said:

I also pulled the number 1 headbolt so I wouldn't drill into it.

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Good point if you have to drill out the stud, make sure you pull the corresponding head bolt.

You hear a lot about the Borla and Banks headers. I am running a Clifford on my stroker and love it. I've run Cliffords for 37 years. They specialize in 6 cylinders and they have first rate stuff. They also have performace parts for the 4.0L such as cams, lifters, intakes and such. They really know their stuff.

Another option to remove the broken bolt is to weld a beed on top and use vise grips to turn it. Twist it out while it's still hot. I've broken three sets of motor mount bolts until we found the true problem. On the second set we used the welding trick. Works like a charm. Just make sure you don't weld it to the block at the same time.