8.25 pinion seal question.

My 94 XJ's rear pinion seal is leaking.(Chrysler 8.25) When tightening the pinion
nut when I am through I don"t want to over crush the crush sleeve. How can I tell how tight is right?

If you're only going to replace the seal and not open up the pumpkin, you need to put the yoke and pinion nut back in exactly the same position it was when you removed it. You'll need to count the pinion threads showing, mark the nut, yoke, and pinion then when you put them back on, tighten only enough to reallign the marks with the same number of threads that were originally showing.

If I was to do the above mentioned way of replacing the seal, approximately how long should it take me?

For a 2000 8.25," the MINIMUM torque listed in the FSM is 210 ft. lbs. for the pinion nut. Specifically, it states:
"(10) Rotate the pinion using an (in. lbs.) torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal, plus an additional 0.56 N·m (5 in. lbs.) (Fig. 16).
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never exceed
specified preload torque. If preload torque is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The torque sequence will then have to be repeated.
(11) If the rotating torque is low, use Yoke Holder 6719 to hold the pinion yoke (Fig. 15) and tighten the pinion nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until proper rotating torque is achieved. NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be constant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding condition.
(12) The seal replacement is unacceptable if the final pinion nut torque is less than 285 N·m (210 ft. lbs.)."

I hope this is what you were referring to.

I was under the assumption that the seal went in from inside the pumpkin...but according to the above post, you can do it without taking it apart. Is this true? I would much rather do it without taking the carrier out and all.

PS-How long will this take? I need to know if I should start it tonight or wait for the weekend.

Maybe when I get home I can just e-mail you the whole section.

if you did I would give you my unconceived child.

[email protected]

On its way. The file is a little over one meg. Let me know through the forum if it doesn't work because I have a Mac. It's a .pdf, though, so it should be fine. If not, I'll just cut and paste it here.

I did this install today. It took just over an hour, and cost $11. Sweet. I'm glad I did it because it got me off my lazy butt to change the diff fluid...which was more like grey soup than lube. yum.

Hey, sorry to bring up an old post but I am looking into doing this exact thing on my 96 xj's 8.25. I'm worried about the crush sleeve. I have talked to someone who tried this and assumed that the procedure was the same as on a dana, and he ended up ruining his gears.

so it can be done without replacing the crush sleeve??

If so, could someone please send me the FSM info, or whatever file is necessary for me to do this without ruining my rear end. Thank you very much!!!