Best way to keep coilovers from squating?

My friend is about to buy a slightly used 2000 WJ thats coilovered w/ Dynatrac D60 and front Sunray "609". I know I know, but its pretty cheap for what all it has and it will get used. He pretty much needs an answer because he has to decide asap if he is gonna buy or not. If he decides to it will HAVE to be driven from Virgina beach to Alabama, gulp.

Anyways I come here because I know some of you guys run coilovers. We are trying to figure out how to make this Jeep road worthy. It has an Anti-Rock up front, but nothing in the rear. I was thinking a swaybar of some sort would help out alot, but not sure. All I know is we have been told it squats pretty bad in the rear when you get on the gas. How do we keep this to a minimum?

Here is a link to it on ebay so you know what we are working with:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2479313340

Thanks

And yes the 38s are getting replaced with 37" MT/Rs and the sticker will be gone.

I'm gonna guess without looking at the link you provided or really knowing anything about it that the suspension geometry is what is causing the squating. You could buy stiffer springs, but what's the point. Just drive it and be careful is my advice, but I've driven some pretty scary rigs cross country.

:shocked: Dayum, if that thing had room to flex/stuff it'd be tits!
Billy

I've seen some guys use ratchet straps to "pre-load" the suspension on soft riding rigs to help with body roll. Might be something worth trying, as it is pretty much free, and may keep you alive.

A better idea would be to rent a U-haul box-truck and drive it inside.

CRASH

ZachMan said:

My friend is about to buy a slightly used 2000 WJ thats coilovered w/ Dynatrac D60 and front Sunray "609". I know I know, but its pretty cheap for what all it has and it will get used. He pretty much needs an answer because he has to decide asap if he is gonna buy or not. If he decides to it will HAVE to be driven from Virgina beach to Alabama, gulp.

Anyways I come here because I know some of you guys run coilovers. We are trying to figure out how to make this Jeep road worthy. It has an Anti-Rock up front, but nothing in the rear. I was thinking a swaybar of some sort would help out alot, but not sure. All I know is we have been told it squats pretty bad in the rear when you get on the gas. How do we keep this to a minimum?

Here is a link to it on ebay so you know what we are working with:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2479313340

Thanks

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I would like to clarify a few things about this rig since I helped with the build and RJ is a good friend of mine. First it does not have an anti-rock in the front, it has a stock swaybar. It doesn't squat when you gas it, it jacks up, but not a ton unless you're standing on the brakes when you do it. It could use stiffer springs in the rear, there's no doubt about that, but it's not scary to drive. It is pretty big, and that can be intimidating, but aside from that, I would drive it to Alabama. Currently I know of two issues that would make driving it to Alabama a "problem." The tires need to be re-balanced, and the steering has a dead-spot in it that is inherent to inverted-T setup that uses the '85 Blazer TREs. Aside from that, it's ready to roll. In order to gain full turning radius you will need to hack some metal though.

BTW, Billy, it does have a decent amout of room to flex before it rubs too bad, but it definately needs some more clearancing. It still flexes like crazy as it is though.

If you have any more questions about it feel free, I probably know just as much if not more than the owner on the technical aspects.

Ary

Safari Ary said:

It doesn't squat when you gas it, it jacks up, but not a ton unless you're standing on the brakes when you do it. It could use stiffer springs in the rear, there's no doubt about that, but it's not scary to drive.
Ary

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How are stiffer springs going to help the antisquat issue? The issue would have to be solved by moving the links. Is this a common problem with the Clayton kits?

It doesn't need stiffer springs to help the anti-squat issue, it just needs stiffer springs 'cause they current ones are too soft. I don't know if this problem is common to the Clayton's kit, because the kit was modified in this application. The axle brackets are not in the exact stock locations and the arms have been lengthened.

BTT, Thanks for all the help guys.

Ary you got PM.

LOL, ok so there will be no highr offer from my buddy thats for sure.

How much do new coilover springs cost anyway?

I heard this Jeep mayhave electrical issues later on because its been re-wired (from front coilover mounts) and the batteries are now in the back. Anyone know? Ary?

CO springs should be about $50-60 per. However, find out where he bought the COs from, most CO vendors have a swap-out program where you can change spring rates and lengths to dial in the ride (assuming the springs are still like-new condition).

Desiging a 4 link is a lot of work to get the right AS % for the rig. Throw in the challenge of having to work with unibody rails for the CA brackets and you really need to compromise to get things right.

Relocating wiring and batteries is no problem. I had to move a bunch of wiring for my CO hoops in the front. No worries for me.

I would sooooo fawk up every body panel on that heep if I owned it. Good thing I don't

SeanP

ZachMan said:

LOL, ok so there will be no highr offer from my buddy thats for sure.

How much do new coilover springs cost anyway?

I heard this Jeep mayhave electrical issues later on because its been re-wired (from front coilover mounts) and the batteries are now in the back. Anyone know? Ary?

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Thanks Sean P.

Yeah I have read alot on how coilovers are hard to dial in correctly.