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Tranny drop

Fozzy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lynnwood,WA
I am installing a Daystar transmission bushing, but in order to do so it looks like I need to drop the tanny. Any ideas for fabbing up[ my own drop mounts, or would I be best buying somone else's?
 
You could use square steel stock and longer bolts. I've even seen a guy use 10 or so washers. I'd go with the square steel tube though... :viking:
 
You shouldn't need to for a replacement bushing. Are you sure you have the right part? I would do an OEM replacement if Daystar requires that you drop the t-case. I wouldn't recommend dropping the t-case at all.

P
 
Fozzy said:
I am installing a Daystar transmission bushing, but in order to do so it looks like I need to drop the tanny. Any ideas for fabbing up[ my own drop mounts, or would I be best buying somone else's?

Very easy to do yourself and have the diagrams etc on my site to help you out.
http://go.jeep-xj.info
 
xxxj-va said:
You shouldn't need to for a replacement bushing. Are you sure you have the right part? I would do an OEM replacement if Daystar requires that you drop the t-case. I wouldn't recommend dropping the t-case at all.

P

Why not drop the T-case? I agree it probably can lead to premature engine mount failure. Any other reasons, experience, etc? I'm curious because I just lifted my 96 XJ about 3" (3" coils and Dakota leaves) and am currently sorting out the rear driveshaft vibe most notable at 35-40 mph. I'm quite confident it is due to the loss of slip yoke engagement (I have found the u-joint angles to be OK) I am considering dropping the t-case 0ne inch or lengthening the driveshaft. I'm not sure I need an SYE for our intended use...two-tracking/camping. I've got a CJ-2A for hardcore stuff.
 
I guess I'll turn the question around. WHY drop it? To correct driveline angles? If you have vibes get the SYE, and shims or angle your spring perches. Why attempt to solve a problem you created by creating another problem? Why not just not drive 35-40....you see where I am going, right? No way I'm not claiming to the XJ-spert. Just my opinion here. I never liked what the t-case drop made my jeep feel like. Maybe some smarter than me can explain better.
 
I didn't get an OEM becasue my Jeep leaks all kinds of oil for some reaason and it has eroded the original bushing, so I got the polyurathne one from Daystar.
 
noticed my daystar mount was pretty tall too...I've got a 1.5" drop now to compensate, no problems, and I'm not shearing motor/trans mounts and having my motor chew holes in my radiator a third time...currie motor mounts and daystar trans mount and biasply swampers make so much vibes I cant sort them out.
 
xxxj-va said:
I guess I'll turn the question around. WHY drop it? To correct driveline angles? If you have vibes get the SYE, and shims or angle your spring perches. Why attempt to solve a problem you created by creating another problem? Why not just not drive 35-40....you see where I am going, right? No way I'm not claiming to the XJ-spert. Just my opinion here. I never liked what the t-case drop made my jeep feel like. Maybe some smarter than me can explain better.


I don't disagree with your comments at all. A dropped t-case is a cheap fix and I agree that the best way would be to go SYE, re-angled spring perches, etc. Besides who wants to use a cheap fix like shims!--(Interpret as humor.) I was curious if you had experienced a specific problem after implementing a t-case drop, based on your statement "I wouldn't recommend dropping the t-case at all."
 
My friends had some 1/4" thick aluminum strapping that we cut into 7-8inch strips, then marked them, drilled through them all (used a vice to hold them in place) then got some longer G-8 bolts, and bolted it up.

It helped the driveline issues a lot...i did loose an inch of clearance though...shims might happen later to help with the clearance issue, but i'm ok for now.
 
Scott said:
Why not drop the T-case? I agree it probably can lead to premature engine mount failure. Any other reasons, experience, etc? I'm curious because I just lifted my 96 XJ about 3" (3" coils and Dakota leaves) and am currently sorting out the rear driveshaft vibe most notable at 35-40 mph. I'm quite confident it is due to the loss of slip yoke engagement (I have found the u-joint angles to be OK) I am considering dropping the t-case 0ne inch or lengthening the driveshaft. I'm not sure I need an SYE for our intended use...two-tracking/camping. I've got a CJ-2A for hardcore stuff.

As a quik fix you could use a YJ yoke, they are longer and will compensate for the loss due to the lift. It's not the best fix but it is cheaper than a SYE. Some here have also drilled holes in the YJ yoke and threaded them to lock them to the ouput shaft then had a longer DS made with the SY in the shaft like the D30's front DS....

Whats 'Two-tracking' ????
 
I did a tranny drop, an extended drive shaft, and shims on the axle. No problems here. I do say it didn't fix 100% of the problem, but, when I have the extra $600+ laying around for a SYE and new driveshaft, I'll get it.
 
"Two-tracking"....must be a Michigan term. It's basically trail-riding on unimproved roads, like to your favorite fishing hole or hunting blind. Nothing real challenging, most any stock vehicle can pass. I guess when you look at the trail there are two worn paths from traffic.......two-tracks.

scott
 
Scott said:
"Two-tracking"....must be a Michigan term. It's basically trail-riding on unimproved roads, like to your favorite fishing hole or hunting blind. Nothing real challenging, most any stock vehicle can pass. I guess when you look at the trail there are two worn paths from traffic.......two-tracks.

scott

Oh, we just call them town roads and sometimes state roads where I live :D Some of our pot holes are so bad the division of fish and game stock them for opening day of trout season....
 
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