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Purchased D44 - what have I done?

mhead

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Encinitas, CA
Hi All,

Purchased a D44 yesterday. It's a D44 alright, 10 bolts, kinda square, looks like the pics for D44. The previous owner said it came from an '87 Cherokee Chief. Diff housing is steel, tubes are 3" dia, diff housing is centered between the wheels, has leaf spring perches on the top side and the shock mounts look correct. Drum brakes are 2.5" wide and about 10" dia. Has 5 wheel lugs on 4.5" circle. I haven't measured the wheel-to-wheel distance.

So far it looks like a bolt-on for my '92 XJ. Is there anything I should be prepared for when I try to bolt this axle on?

This D44 has a shot pinion bearing. I figure I'll replace all the bearings/seals before I install the axle. I'll probably re-gear. Where (on the 'net) should I purchase the parts?

Thanks!
 
Be awaret that the nose of the D44 is about 1" longer than the D35. That means you need to check your drive shaft and make sure it will not bind up at full stuff.
 
jmop said:
I go through http://www.completeoffroad.com for most of my axle stuff. They have free shipping and the prices are better then most that I have found.


Wow, I had never heard of them untill I just ordered an install kit from them today, then you say it? Weird coincidence. :shiver: :laugh2:



completeoffroad would be the place to go, 82$ shipped for an install kit, best price I could find.
 
old_man said:
Be awaret that the nose of the D44 is about 1" longer than the D35. That means you need to check your drive shaft and make sure it will not bind up at full stuff.


As wel as if you still have a slip yoke, cant it mess up the internals of the tcase?
 
mhead said:
Sorry, don't understand. What's a 'slip yoke'?


The yoke can slip in and out of the tcase, they make SYE's (slip yoke eliminator) because most dont like it like that.

But it does make removing the dshaft a snap. :D
 
It's terrible, it won't work at all.....you should sell it to me!

and yeah, you can bust a tcase in half if you're dshaft is too long.
 
Man I am glad I read this thread..

I am swapping my D44 from my wrecked 87 to my 84...

now I know to check the drive shaft... maybe I will just use the one from the 87..
 
Last edited:
RINGKONG said:
maybe I will just use the one from the 87..

If you have it, run it, works great. :thumbup:
 
I have a slip yoke! Thanks!

I suspect that my drive shaft will be too long since my XJ isn't lifted much.

First question: How do I tell? I guess I should disconnect the drive shaft, push it all the way into the slip, and hold it where I guess the D44 differential yoke will be when the leaf springs are all the way compressed and guess if there is any extra room...? I doubt I'll be able to make a very precise estimate here.

And... assuming the shaft's too long, what can be done: shorten shaft?; lift more?; maybe move the D44 back on the springs?
 
mhead said:
I have a slip yoke! Thanks!

I suspect that my drive shaft will be too long since my XJ isn't lifted much.

First question: How do I tell? I guess I should disconnect the drive shaft, push it all the way into the slip, and hold it where I guess the D44 differential yoke will be when the leaf springs are all the way compressed and guess if there is any extra room...? I doubt I'll be able to make a very precise estimate here.

And... assuming the shaft's too long, what can be done: shorten shaft?; lift more?; maybe move the D44 back on the springs?

There are metal fabrication shops that will shorten it for you, I shortened mine 1" worked great. Cost me 20$, I'd call around.
 
hjeepxj said:
There are metal fabrication shops that will shorten it for you, I shortened mine 1" worked great. Cost me 20$, I'd call around.
Any suggestions on how to evaluate the shops? What if they weld it back together bent? Did you have yours done at a shop that specializes in drive lines?
 
Any general machine shop can shorten it...but they tend to be pricey because of the huge investment in tooling and labor. Best bet is a driveshaft shop...it's their specialty.
 
mhead said:
Any suggestions on how to evaluate the shops? What if they weld it back together bent? Did you have yours done at a shop that specializes in drive lines?


Well, its best to find someone that specializes, but the shop I went with was just a fab shop...but theyve done drivelines before, so they knew what to do.

If it didnt cost too much id say ship it out here and id geterdone for yah, but it would probably be too much hassel.
 
Thanks for the offer! I'll hunt around here in San Diego. I'm sure I can find someone local. I can do it myself but I don't know how I would jig the shaft in a straight position prior to welding. I see little weights tacked on some shafts which makes me think they are factory balanced. I suppose a good shop could balance a shaft? Do they need balancing?
 
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