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Please Help With 2WD Cherokee Brakes

Quarterwave

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
Hi all,

Further to the subject, I'm posting this msg hoping that someone out there might be able to recommend a reputable brake repairer in the greater Ft Lauderdale area (S.E Florida). The reason I ask is b/c I just purchased a used (well) 93 2 Door Cherokee Sport 2WD, and took it in to my local tire store to chk out my brakes (they were squeaking and felt spongy underfoot), and also to regas my A/C - it just blows hot air - not good coming into summer down here in Florida !

Anyway, the mechanic told me that the rear drums were stuffed, and the fronts were just as bad - all up a repair price of USD$1100.00.

And b/c the A/C has some type of refrigerant that is no longer avail, they couldn't supply nor check what the problem was with my A/C unit.... bearing in mind that this was with a MAJOR tire retailer in this part of the states.

So, again, I am hoping that someone out there might be able to assist in referring me to someone who can do this work for me for a better deal b/c unfortunately, I live in an apartment complex and do not have the facilities (or mechanical expertise) to attempt this job myself. If not, thx anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to read this msg.

B Rgds,
Q'Wave
 
Quarterwave said:
Hi all,

Further to the subject, I'm posting this msg hoping that someone out there might be able to recommend a reputable brake repairer in the greater Ft Lauderdale area (S.E Florida). The reason I ask is b/c I just purchased a used (well) 93 2 Door Cherokee Sport 2WD, and took it in to my local tire store to chk out my brakes (they were squeaking and felt spongy underfoot), and also to regas my A/C - it just blows hot air - not good coming into summer down here in Florida !

Anyway, the mechanic told me that the rear drums were stuffed, and the fronts were just as bad - all up a repair price of USD$1100.00.

And b/c the A/C has some type of refrigerant that is no longer avail, they couldn't supply nor check what the problem was with my A/C unit.... bearing in mind that this was with a MAJOR tire retailer in this part of the states.

So, again, I am hoping that someone out there might be able to assist in referring me to someone who can do this work for me for a better deal b/c unfortunately, I live in an apartment complex and do not have the facilities (or mechanical expertise) to attempt this job myself. If not, thx anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to read this msg.

B Rgds,
Q'Wave


Brakes are a no-brainer...maybe a local NAXJAer can help ya out and teach ya how to change brakes for a case of beer....save ya $900 or so. You can do brakes in your apt parking lot without a big fuss or mess.

As far as the a\c, the old sysyem used freon....no longer available....you need to convert to R-134A..or whatever its called.....I think Wal-Mart had a kit to do it and recharge it for like $45 bucks.
 
Thx BlueMJ,

I'll go to my local Walmart and check out the A/C re-fit. Re the brakes, I'd really love to learn how to fix them, can anyone help me in exchange for a cash & beer incentive ?

B Rgds,
Q'Wave
 
BlueMJ said:
As far as the a\c, the old sysyem used freon....no longer available....you need to convert to R-134A..or whatever its called.....I think Wal-Mart had a kit to do it and recharge it for like $45 bucks.

Your information is a bit incorrect. The older XJ's (and other cars) used a refrigerant called R12. The newer, more "environmentally friendly" stuff is called R134a. R12 is still available, but it's only sold to certified ASE technicians, so you MUST get a professional tech. to do the refill. Also, due to limited supply, it costs at least $30/lb nowadays, thus making a full recharge on your AC system cost at least $60 plus labor, for a typical car.

Conversions to R134a are NOT just a simple matter of filling the system with the new refrigerant. The compressor must be drained of the old oil, and filled with an oil compatible with R134a. Also, the receiver/dryer must be replaced to avoid compressor damage due to accumlated R12 byproducts. In the end, a system designed for R12, but running R134a, can be made to function, but the system will ALWAYS be less efficient than with the original R12.

My recommendation is that, unless you are planning on replacing lots of the pieces of the AC system, a refill with R12 makes more sense.
 
GOD ! If you want to get stroked everyone move to FL !!! Funny thing is is that if you replaced every brake part you have it would only be about $400.00 but when they mark it up OUCH !!! You also have r-12. You need to convert it over to r-134 any A/C shop should be able to do this for you for a reasonable amount.
 
AZ Jeff said:
Your information is a bit incorrect. The older XJ's (and other cars) used a refrigerant called R12. The newer, more "environmentally friendly" stuff is called R134a. R12 is still available, but it's only sold to certified ASE technicians, so you MUST get a professional tech. to do the refill. Also, due to limited supply, it costs at least $30/lb nowadays, thus making a full recharge on your AC system cost at least $60 plus labor, for a typical car.

Conversions to R134a are NOT just a simple matter of filling the system with the new refrigerant. The compressor must be drained of the old oil, and filled with an oil compatible with R134a. Also, the receiver/dryer must be replaced to avoid compressor damage due to accumlated R12 byproducts. In the end, a system designed for R12, but running R134a, can be made to function, but the system will ALWAYS be less efficient than with the original R12.

My recommendation is that, unless you are planning on replacing lots of the pieces of the AC system, a refill with R12 makes more sense.

I said Wal-Mart sold a complete kit, I didn't say I was an expert at it or what it consisted of. Freon...R12...who cares....I was told by my local shop that the original chemical cannot be used anymore...the shop will get fined if caught using it on vehicles. Did I recommend or endorse the WalMart kit...no, just gave him something to look at...I think he is smart enough to make an informed decision.
 
AZ Jeff said:
Your information is a bit incorrect. The older XJ's (and other cars) used a refrigerant called R12. The newer, more "environmentally friendly" stuff is called R134a. R12 is still available, but it's only sold to certified ASE technicians, so you MUST get a professional tech. to do the refill. Also, due to limited supply, it costs at least $30/lb nowadays, thus making a full recharge on your AC system cost at least $60 plus labor, for a typical car.

Conversions to R134a are NOT just a simple matter of filling the system with the new refrigerant. The compressor must be drained of the old oil, and filled with an oil compatible with R134a. Also, the receiver/dryer must be replaced to avoid compressor damage due to accumlated R12 byproducts. In the end, a system designed for R12, but running R134a, can be made to function, but the system will ALWAYS be less efficient than with the original R12.

My recommendation is that, unless you are planning on replacing lots of the pieces of the AC system, a refill with R12 makes more sense.

Jeff --

In turn, your information is out of date. The new R-134a conversion kits do not require replacing the drier, or dumping all the old oil. You do need to have the old R12 recovered by a certified technician, but once that's done you just install the adapter fittings, hook up the can of refrigerant+oil, and open the valve. I know several people who have done it and after two seasons or so have encountered no ill effects.

The older prevailing wisdom was that the old oil was incompatible with the new refrigerant. Apparently they have now come up with a new oil that somehow mixes with the old stuff to counteract that incompatibility.
 
Hi guys,

Thx fr all the tips with the A/C - FWIW, I understood everyones P.O.V, and have been trying to find out as much about it as I can from forums like these and the internet in general - the last post was good news though !

Initially, I really need to make it safe to drive in order to get to the A/C shop, so I need to get the brakes done immediately.... looks like I'm just going to have to bend over and grimmace b/c I've looked at them in my parking lot, and I just see metal and springs....

Again guys, thx fr all yr suggestions.

B Rgds,
Q'Wave
 
Dang! I hate to see ppl get ripped. NO ONE in FLA can help this guy out?

Take the XJ to a few different places and get other quotes. $1000 is rediculous. Parts shouldn't cost any more than $300-$400 assuming you need new front rotors and rear drums..front pads and rear shoes are relatively cheap, depending on the quality you go with. An experienced brake man can do a complete brake job in about 2 hours...barring any unforeseen problems (i.e. bad brake cylinders, bad calipers, etc....).

There are 9 inch or 10 inch rear brakes listed...i used 9 inch parts, they were slightly more expensive....

Parts (from Napa): all Tru-Stop parts...what I run...works just fine
Rear Shoes kit: 17.49
Front Pads kit: 14.99
Front rotor & hub assembly: 46.99 x2
Rear drums: 56.99 x2 (NAPA Uniter parts line)

these parts could be changd as long as the front hub is off
front wheel bearing: *can't find em* less than $5 x2

All these parts are off www.NAPAonline.com get an estimate and compare parts prices...if the shop allows, buy your own parts and just pay the shop labor to install.

Go to a Midas Muffler, Monroe, or a chain shop like that. Most of them have deals..a certain price per axle, sometimes you can find a sale. Some also have a lifetime warranty on parts if you buy the premium service...you'll never have to pay for brake parts for as long as you own the vehicle..labor yes, parts no.

Good luck
 
Eagle said:
Jeff --

In turn, your information is out of date. The new R-134a conversion kits do not require replacing the drier, or dumping all the old oil. You do need to have the old R12 recovered by a certified technician, but once that's done you just install the adapter fittings, hook up the can of refrigerant+oil, and open the valve. I know several people who have done it and after two seasons or so have encountered no ill effects.

The older prevailing wisdom was that the old oil was incompatible with the new refrigerant. Apparently they have now come up with a new oil that somehow mixes with the old stuff to counteract that incompatibility.

Eagle, That's good news, for owners with R12 systems. I was quoting info from a auto AC website from last summer, where a bunch of ASE techs talk about auto AC systems. Thus, your info must be less than a year old. This oil compatibility thing must be REAL new, but it's all GOOD NEWS for cost of conversion.

I am assuming though, that total system efficiency still down a bit when converting from R12 to R1324a, due to different work pressures. Am I correct?
 
I've got 4-1# cans of R12 in my basement. Should toss them up on ebay and see how much I can get.

You should be able to do your own brakes. Get a good manual, Chiltons or something and read it and have at it. Only take apart one side at a time so you can go back and forth to compare sides. They are really simple if you look at it. Wish I was down there, I would give you a hand in a minute!!
 
AZ Jeff said:
I am assuming though, that total system efficiency still down a bit when converting from R12 to R1324a, due to different work pressures. Am I correct?

Dunno if it's due to working pressures or the nature of the gas itself, but everything I've read confirms that we should expect less efficiency from a converted system. However, both my friend ERich and CheapXJ have done the el cheapo conversion, and both reported better than "normal" cooling. I hope that's true, because the a/c on my '88 has always been marginal, and since it lost the charge anyway I'm going to convert it this season rather than pay the price for R12.
 
Sorry to hijack here, but what about that Freeze 12 synthetic R12? Is that stuff any good? My sister just had it installed in her Volvo's R12 system. :dunno:
 
I have converted my cherokees 88 and 87(r.i.p) and an 88 ford f150 using the kit I bought at autozone.. for like $30.


works great.. been running the 88 ford like that for 2 yrs.. no probs..
 
I did the rotors pads and calipers for about $100 at carquest. (fronts only)
The guy said the had a price break on 1992 vehicles so it was oly $19.99 x 2 for rotors $18 for pads and $19.99 x 2 for new calipers! I was shocked. If theres a carquest near ya its worth finding there prices they were great up here (MA). I called around the prices were double every were else.
-Steve D
 
Eagle said:
Dunno if it's due to working pressures or the nature of the gas itself, but everything I've read confirms that we should expect less efficiency from a converted system. However, both my friend ERich and CheapXJ have done the el cheapo conversion, and both reported better than "normal" cooling. I hope that's true, because the a/c on my '88 has always been marginal, and since it lost the charge anyway I'm going to convert it this season rather than pay the price for R12.

Eagle, let us know how it works out. I, too, have heard mixed reviews on the results of conversions. Knowing your expertise on things automotive, I know that you will be able to give an accurate assessment of not only the ease of conversion, but also on the effectiveness of the AC system thereafter.
 
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