WJ Conversion (pics, info, prices)

Completed WJ steering conversion it went easier than expected except for making the tie rods / drag link. I gathered all the parts needed from a 2000 Grand Cherokee limited V8. I paid $150 for both knuckles left and right including the hubs, $80 for both dual piston calipers and caliper mounting bracket, $60 for the four tie rod ends and drag links, $80 for the two rotors (auto zone), $33 for brake pads, $90 at machine shop to get the hubs and rotors re-drilled to 5 on 4.5” lug pattern ( I took them a old rotor with me to use as a pattern), and around $30 in misc. bolts, fluid etc. for a grand total of $523.00. I didn’t think this was too bad of a price for better steering and better braking.

Specs Tie rods ends are 24mm x 1.5 pitch thread 2-LH thread, 2-RH thread
Brake calipers are dual piston calipers
Rotors are 12”

After getting everything together and back from the machine shop the install took about 2.5 hours everything bolted right in the only things I had to alter was I did have to grind a flat spot on one side of the studs to get them to press back into WJ hub since the bearing in that hub is larger and I cut around 4” out of the middle of the stock WJ drag links to work with my wheel base (the top length depends on lift and drop pitman or not) after I cut out the access I pushed in a solid rod into the middle and re welded it back together at the seam and plug welded it. I used this drag link as a temporary but it was way stronger than the original XJ I eventually made a DOM one that is 1 3/8 OD by 1/4'” wall and bought taps and threaded each end and used jam nuts (Have a source for finished drag links and jam nuts if anyone needs any)

I have done this swap on a 2000 TJ D30 and a 1988 XJ D30 everything bolted up. The hardest thing to fab or come up with by far is the drag link that 24mm x 1.5 thread especially the LH is hard to find, everything else was cake. Here are some links for more info

http://www.jeepsrus.org/tech/WJhubs/wjhubs.htm

http://www.burnsvilleoffroad.com/custom.html

http://www.orgsmfg.com/project/WJKnuckle.htm

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/

Pictures are of 2000 TJ and a 1988 XJ that we have done

Complication-

I have the Warn hub conversion on my '98. Do you know how this would complicate things?? I am figuring would make it not possible due to the total replacement of the hub/bearing needed- correct?? Thanks.

Many people have done the conversion without replacing the hubs it seems there is no rime or reason with the spacer width (1/16"-1/4")I have a freind that did one on a 87 cherokee and he used his old hubs a no spacer and everything fit fine the rotors didn't rub on the caliper bracket and his u-joints were fine in their placement So I guess the question is that I don't know you may be able to call Burnsville Offroad they may have done this before I gave them a call when I did a conversion and they were helpful their link is in the 1st post

how good are the brakes after this? Heck good brakes are good enough reason for me to do this.

Well my question about the hubs was anwered. That makes me happy since I just replaced both front hub/bearing sets. I read somewhere that the 2000+ wont work with 15" wheels. Is this true? If so what year WJ is the best donor? My ball joints, brakes, steering linkage and steering box are all being replaced soon so this will be nice to add too! Sorry one more Q, how is the clearence between the draglink and the sway bar disconect?

Thanks

Tim

I did this swap with a 1999 and 2000 Grand Cherokee parts on a 2000, D30 and a 1988, D30 and we are both running 15" wheels still. The deciding factor on the wheels being 15" or having to switch to 16" is the back spacing if you have more than about 3.75" the 15" wheels will not work without grinding the calipers alot. The clearance between the drag link and the sway bar bracket worked on the 2000 D30 with just a small amount of grinding had to flaten round part of bracket where the mount bolts to the bracket the older D30 I cut off the old bracket and fabbed a new one it was hitting when fully flexed. The clearance issues depends on lift and if your wheel base has been shortened due to short control arms and the older 30's have thicker swaybar brackets

The brakes are great I can lock up my 33" on dry pavement now

Hey Tim if you already have to replace all that this would be a perfect swap for you

Thanks for the info! Now I just got to get some prices!

Tim

If you can't find something or need drag links shoot me an email

Gary

I know this is an old thread, but it's the best info I could find on the subject. I see conflicting info from 4x4wire:

I'll start out by correcting some misinformation about this conversion. The WJ knuckles are approximately .25" shallower where the hub bolts in than those used on the YJ, TJ, XJ, or ZJ. The WJ hubs DO NOT correct this. In all my measuring of hubs for all the listed models they all have one measurement in common and that is the distance between the axle shaft mounting surface (on the inside) to the hub mounting surface. So the result is that regardless of which hub you use IT IS NECESSARY to space the hub out to maintain the "FACTORY SPEC" of the U-joint to ball joint relationship. This is important to prevent bottoming of the axle shaft on the differential center pin and binding of the axle shaft U-joint on turns.

Click to expand...

and from jeepsrus:

The knuckles bolt right on the same as the XJ ones. It is necessary to use the WJ hubs to avoid the dangerous "spacers". It is true the XJ hubs need to be spaced 1/4" out to center the u-joint between the ball joints. If this is not done the axle moves forward and back while turning. If you look at the axle tube and turn the knuckle you can see tons of movement.

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Does anybody know which is correct? Custom spacers would be a real PITA, but if the WJ hubs can just be redrilled, then I'm more inclined to do this conversion.

JonnyK said:

I know this is an old thread, but it's the best info I could find on the subject. I see conflicting info from 4x4wire:
and from jeepsrus:

Does anybody know which is correct? Custom spacers would be a real PITA, but if the WJ hubs can just be redrilled, then I'm more inclined to do this conversion.

Click to expand...

The first quote is correct, you need the spacer. How would re drilling the hubs help with a spacer?

Also, you want the spacer welded to the steering knuckle.

JonnyK said:

Does anybody know which is correct? Custom spacers would be a real PITA, but if the WJ hubs can just be redrilled, then I'm more inclined to do this conversion.

Click to expand...

I don't know about the WJ hubs, but you weld the .25" spacers (from JKS) to the knuckles and then they're not "dangerous" :shiver: . I run Warn hubs, some guys went with 2000+ XJ unit bearing hubs for some reason.

Several of us have done this conversion, search here and JU, there is a wealth of info. JU's search engine works better.
JKS sells all of the fab parts you'll need for this and MJR on this board, will sell you good used calipers for about $100.

jonboy said:

I don't know about the WJ hubs, but you weld the .25" spacers (from JKS) to the knuckles and then they're not "dangerous" :shiver: . I run Warn hubs, some guys went with 2000+ XJ unit bearing hubs for some reason.

Several of us have done this conversion, search here and JU, there is a wealth of info. JU's search engine works better.
JKS sells all of the fab parts you'll need for this and MJR on this board, will sell you good used calipers for about $100.

Click to expand...

What is similar with the 2000+ XJ hubs as the WJ hubs? Is a spacer still required?