Im going to start on my steering soon from scratch. Its on a D44 off a 86 Waggy with 8-9" of lift and 36" Iroks (TRAIL ONLY). I ve seen tons of post on it and am still not 100% sure which one to run. Should I run a beefy version of the stock inverted Y? Or should I run a complete tie rod knuckle to knuckle with the drag link 3/4 of the way to the tie rod. OR Drag link to knuckle and straight tie rod knuckle to knuckle. Im using 1.5" Tube w/ 1/4 wall and Aurora rod ends. Binding and bump steer are the obvious things to stay away from so which setup do you think would be the best.
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Steering Fabbing (Inverted Y,Striaght, or T??)
- Thread starter Heep
- Start date
Pat
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bloomington, IN
you a little eager?
At that height, you should run "Drag link to knuckle and straight tie rod knuckle to knuckle." You're probably a little tall to run the inverted Y. "Stock" on the Waggy is an inverted T (aka: "a complete tie rod knuckle to knuckle with the drag link 3/4 of the way to the tie rod"), so you could easily run that, but you'd have a lot of slop, b/c at that height the draglink to tierod angle is so extreme that when you turn the wheel, the draglink rotates the tierod up or down before any steering actually takes place.
If I were you, I'd get some flat-top knuckles and run hi-steer.
HTH
Pat
At that height, you should run "Drag link to knuckle and straight tie rod knuckle to knuckle." You're probably a little tall to run the inverted Y. "Stock" on the Waggy is an inverted T (aka: "a complete tie rod knuckle to knuckle with the drag link 3/4 of the way to the tie rod"), so you could easily run that, but you'd have a lot of slop, b/c at that height the draglink to tierod angle is so extreme that when you turn the wheel, the draglink rotates the tierod up or down before any steering actually takes place.
If I were you, I'd get some flat-top knuckles and run hi-steer.
HTH
Pat
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
I like the inverted T at that height when you are using heim ends. It's harder to get enough movement on the joint at the knuckle end of the drag link when the drag link runs to the knuckle. When the drag link runs to the tie rod with a heim end mount there is unlimited movement, so no chance of binding. I wouldn't mount the drag link 3/4 way down the tie rod, make it closer to the knuckle, but I think that was sort of a "figure of speech" explaining what you were talking about. QA1 makes a nice part to make this design easy to build, it's an adjuster that goes next to the heim joint on the drivers side so the tie rod can be adjusted without removing the drag link. I didn't know of it when I did mine, so I made my own bracket.
QA1 double adjuster
For ideas, here's mine:
QA1 double adjuster
For ideas, here's mine:
poomba
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Christoval, Tx
Jesus, Goat, I wanna have your kids...not only did you know what he said, you had pics...