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DW that goes away w/ a passenger??(really stumped)

Safari Ary

NAXJA Forum User
Ok, I get DW right at 60 mph as soon as I hit the sligthest bump in the road. If I hit a bump with the driver's side tire it gets really ugly, but if it's the passenger side tire i can usually steer out of it. Now sometimes the DW is more pronounced than others, and it seems to be dependent on the weather :confused:

Anyway, the part that really has me puzzled is that if there's a passenger in the Jeep, she runs smooth as can be, not even the slightest hint of a wobble.

I've changed all the TRE's excecpt the one at the end of the draglink(putting in a whole new axle here shortly, so I didn't wanna drop the coin for a new draglink). I'm 95% sure the Balljoints are good. I've checked all my Control Arms and trackbar for loose or worn out ends, and they were all in good shape(all have been replaced within the past 6 months anyway). My driver's side wheel hub has a LITTLE bit of play in it, but I've had bad hubs before, and this isn't what that feels like to me. The passenger's side hub is solid. I've checked the toe and it's good(1/4" toe-in). I've had my tires balanced and re-balanced and rotated and no difference was noted.

Is my Jeep just possessed? The new axle will go in here in about 2 weeks, but if there's something obvious I'm missing I'd like to fix it so I don't have to deal with DW for two weeks. I guess I could just put something that weighed 150lbs in the passenger seat :D

Thanks

Ary
 
Since when is 1/4" toe-in "good"?

Tires aren't the problem. If they were, you'd have DW issues without having to hit a bump to set things off. I'd finish replacing the known loose steering parts and then look at the control arm bushings. It's very likely that there's a difference in wear or condition between the left and right side bushings.

Make sure to fill the blow-up doll with water to supply the necessary weight.
 
well, passenger adds a little weight on the front, therefore reducing the toe. make sure your toe is very close to 0, on the positive side.
 
Sounds like bad bumpsteer not DW.

I had DW before at 52-55mph (out of round tire) it would be full blown DW every time and it did not matter what kind of road, if I hit 52- 55mph my Jeep would start dancing every single time. Only way to stop it is to come to a complete stop and drive around at 45 mph.
 
MaXJohnson said:
Since when is 1/4" toe-in "good"?

Tires aren't the problem. If they were, you'd have DW issues without having to hit a bump to set things off. I'd finish replacing the known loose steering parts and then look at the control arm bushings. It's very likely that there's a difference in wear or condition between the left and right side bushings.

Make sure to fill the blow-up doll with water to supply the necessary weight.

I've always been told that 1/4" toe-in is perfect.

The LCA bushings are brand new as of december, and there has been no wheelin or other abusive driving that would cause them to wear out.
 
dennisuello said:
well, passenger adds a little weight on the front, therefore reducing the toe.

thats kind of my theory too. that big fat girl you always have riding with you lowers the jeep ~2" and corrects your toe thereby eliminating your DW.

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

matthew
 
Safari Ary said:
I've always been told that 1/4" toe-in is perfect.


No, get an alignment. Who told you that?
 
Depending on the year of your Cherokee, toe settings will vary.

87-94 you want 0" inches, + or - 1/16
on 95-96 you want 0" +1/8 or - 3/32
on 97-98 it's 0" +1/4 or -3/32
on 99-2001 its 1/8" +3/32 or - 1/8

regardless, it sounds more like something is not quite in spec.. make sure your balljoints are good.
 
bottleworks said:
No, get an alignment. Who told you that?

Pretty sure I got that figure from Gojeep's "do-it-yourself" alignment guide. Mine's an '01, so according to pfogle, I'm within spec anyway. Guess I'll just have to accelerate the process of getting the new axle under the heep and see if that cures it. Got most of the parts now, just waiting on a few last pieces.
 
Safari Ary said:
Pretty sure I got that figure from Gojeep's "do-it-yourself" alignment guide. Mine's an '01, so according to pfogle, I'm within spec anyway. Guess I'll just have to accelerate the process of getting the new axle under the heep and see if that cures it. Got most of the parts now, just waiting on a few last pieces.
Nope because I specify 0 toe in. I have had two cistomers in the last fornight with DW's and going to 0 toe got rid of both! These were both not the comand trac as they specify some toe in!
 
Gojeep said:
Nope because I specify 0 toe in. I have had two cistomers in the last fornight with DW's and going to 0 toe got rid of both! These were both not the comand trac as they specify some toe in!

Yeah, I've got the 231, but I'll set my toe to 0 and see what that does for me. Thanks
 
Gojeep said:
Nope because I specify 0 toe in. I have had two cistomers in the last fornight with DW's and going to 0 toe got rid of both! These were both not the comand trac as they specify some toe in!

I forgot you lived in Australia for a second.......funny stuff :greensmok

What hunk of tin you throwin' under the front of the ole' XJ Ary???
 
91 Jeep Project said:
I forgot you lived in Australia for a second.......funny stuff :greensmok

What hunk of tin you throwin' under the front of the ole' XJ Ary???

Tera 50 front, Dana 60 rear :greensmok
 
91 Jeep Project said:
Reaaaally, why the 50??? I am not aware of the specs of this axle and I am currently way to lazy to search on it... :helpme:


its not the same as a dana 50. i believe it uses all dana 44 parts, but has a different shaped center section.

matthew

199.jpg
 
Well I set the toe to 0 and it makes the DW less persistant, but when it sets in, it's much worse :(

really at a loss now as to what it could be...

and yes, the Tera 50 is a HP 44 center section that Tera makes that has a nice radiused(aka smooth) bottom. I'm using it 'cause I got a helluva deal on it......

Ary
 
Here are some things to check.

1. Caster. Get an alignment to check this. Too little or too much may be a factor in your DW.

2. Loose items in the steering or trackbar. Sounds like you have looked at this in the steering end, what about the trackbar.

3. Flexing items. Your DW seems to result from an impact. It is possible that either steering components or your trackbar are flexing. If you can get the DW started and look out your window at the front tire. Is the front side fo the tire moving back and forth more than the rear, or is the rear side fo the front tire moving back and forth more? If it is the rear side, it is your trackbar flexing. Look into getting an RE adjustable or similar trackbar. If the front side, your steering is flexing or loose.

Remember that DW is caused by more than one item. Usually results from several items working in unison. In your case, possibly poor alignment and flexing suspension links. Best of luck.
 
dennisuello said:
1 fortnight = 14 days :variety:

but, i don't know what's a "cistomer".
Just a slip of the keyboard :cool: The U is just next to the I :dunce:
 
dirtclod said:
Here are some things to check.

1. Caster. Get an alignment to check this. Too little or too much may be a factor in your DW.

2. Loose items in the steering or trackbar. Sounds like you have looked at this in the steering end, what about the trackbar.

3. Flexing items. Your DW seems to result from an impact. It is possible that either steering components or your trackbar are flexing. If you can get the DW started and look out your window at the front tire. Is the front side fo the tire moving back and forth more than the rear, or is the rear side fo the front tire moving back and forth more? If it is the rear side, it is your trackbar flexing. Look into getting an RE adjustable or similar trackbar. If the front side, your steering is flexing or loose.

Remember that DW is caused by more than one item. Usually results from several items working in unison. In your case, possibly poor alignment and flexing suspension links. Best of luck.

The only thing I haven't checked is caster. The trackbar is a RE 1600(adjustable with heim). The heim is new as of 3 months ago and the rubber end is in good shape. I think it's probably the caster combined with the little bit of play in the wheel bearing.

I made substantial progress on the 50 yesterday, all that's left is to torque the balljoints, assemble the outers and weld on the brackets. Hopefully have it done within the next two weeks.

Ary
 
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