Torn between gears w/ Stroker motor and 33s....

I have a stroker motor going in, in late May/early June.

I can't decide on what gears would be best.....

The motor itself has 250hp and 330ft/lb tq.

With that being said, I've got 33s. I know 4.56-4.88 are optimal w/ 33s on/offroad w/ a normal 4.0L, but what about w/ a stroker motor and all of that extra power? 4.10s? Hell I can pull a D60 out of a J4000 and find 4.10s.(More reason for me to build a 60) :rof:

I'm more or less worried about on-road gearing at this point(this is my DD), because later I can make up for offroad gearing at the T-case is the way I figure it.... :roll:

I just don't want to be spinning tires every time I tap the gas and hitting 4K rpm at 10mph by being over-geared for the street/hwy use. I'm all about letting the motor run at high RPMs because I know it can handle it, but I'm not sure where the median of best on/offroad gears would be at this point....

Any input? Anyone w/ a stroker and 33s?

-Adam :moon:

I'm running a stroker w/4.56's and 35's. It is geared nice for the highway. I can still do over a hundred and my cruise at 75mph is below 3,000. That would put 4.10's on 33's somewhere in the same ballpark. Ar you running a stick or auto? If you are running a stick, I would say get the lower gears, with an auto, 4.10's would be fine for most things. The low end torque of the stroker could handle 3.53 on the highway no problem but off road you want lower.

If you are gonna go for a Dana 60 rear, Don't go J4000. Better off going with 78/79 F250 rear 60, and front HD 44. Reason being they come stock primarily with 3.55's and there is more aftermarket. The HD front 44 is also a lot heavier duty (thus HD) than the J truck 44.

There were two versions of the 35sp D60 in J trucks; one offset slightly, and one offset a ton. I know 73's were 35sp, and I believe atleast 72 was also 35sp. If it's an 80's J4000, then that doesn't exsist, because the designations for the J10 and J20 were dropped in 74. 73/72 were good years because they were 35 spline, but still semi float. Jeep designation I believe was 60-2.

That being said. Go for a FF rear 60 that has a bunch of aftermarket and isn't offset to one side. The F250 rear 60 is nice because if you want to go Ford HP60 front(several years here) Than you can keep same lug pattern.

you didn't say what year or tranny you have, which will make a difference in your overdrive ratio

I have a mostly untouched 88 Renix 4.0 with 200k miles, the Renix 4.0s apparently have their power a little lower, and I have a 94 AW4 which has the .75od rather than the .70od of the AW4s behind Renix motors.

I also have 4.10s and 33s (4.88s and 35s going in/on in May) and for freeway driving I wish I had just a TINY bit more, like 4.30s. At 75mph I'm pulling about 2500 rpms. I think this would be about perfect with a torquey stroker.

'92 and it has an AW4......

the 4.10s would be a good setup for you. Thats the wonderful thing the stroker allows you to do.

Majo said:

If you are gonna go for a Dana 60 rear, Don't go J4000. Better off going with 78/79 F250 rear 60, and front HD 44. Reason being they come stock primarily with 3.55's and there is more aftermarket. The HD front 44 is also a lot heavier duty (thus HD) than the J truck 44.

There were two versions of the 35sp D60 in J trucks; one offset slightly, and one offset a ton. I know 73's were 35sp, and I believe atleast 72 was also 35sp. If it's an 80's J4000, then that doesn't exsist, because the designations for the J10 and J20 were dropped in 74. 73/72 were good years because they were 35 spline, but still semi float. Jeep designation I believe was 60-2.

That being said. Go for a FF rear 60 that has a bunch of aftermarket and isn't offset to one side. The F250 rear 60 is nice because if you want to go Ford HP60 front(several years here) Than you can keep same lug pattern.

Click to expand...

I have a 60-2 from a J4000 in my garage that is going into my XJ shortly. It is 67" wide WMS to WMS with a 6" offset in the diff. That means that if you narrow it and center the diff in the process you end up with a 61" wide axle(perfect for an XJ) and it's 35sp, semi-float, non c-clip, with 1.5" non tapered shafts. Narrowing is relatively cheap at 85$ through Moser, so it's not cost-prohibitive. The J4000 axle is one of very few 60s(I don't know of any others, but I'm sure there's something out there) with 35spline axles that are non-clip/non-tapered. Anyway, that's what I'm doing and Adam lives about 2 mins from me and that's where he got the idea.

Oh, and mine came with 4.10s stock

Ary, I'm trying not to hijack thread here, but am interested in that j4000 60-2 you got.

Just a serious question or two really. Is there an easy way to do a disc brake conversion on it? so you can have rear disc. What if you went 60 up front?, does moser or anyone else make a semi float shaft for it to convert it to 8 lug? or something if you wanted to run hummer rims for dual beadlock etc.

Majo said:

Ary, I'm trying not to hijack thread here, but am interested in that j4000 60-2 you got.

Just a serious question or two really. Is there an easy way to do a disc brake conversion on it? so you can have rear disc. What if you went 60 up front?, does moser or anyone else make a semi float shaft for it to convert it to 8 lug? or something if you wanted to run hummer rims for dual beadlock etc.

Click to expand...

yup, it's very easy to put discs on. A standard Chevy front D44 caliper stand will bolt right onto the flanges at the ends of the tubes and then you just gotta come up with a rotor(haven't done this yet, but I've been told it's a common rotor, but I don't remember off the top of my head what the application is).

Also, seeing as how Superior can make pretty much any shaft you want, I don't see why they couldn't come up with an 8-lug shaft for it in the future if need be.

Ary

do gears.

you already ARE a stroker.

I'd do gears for sure.

At low rpm's...i.e. under 1400 where you spend most of your time when wheeling even with low gears your stroker won't spool up with lightening speed. I think you should totally ignore your engine power when selecting crawling gears...it's all about going slow to maintain control. If your gears are too high it doesn't matter what engine you have.

Ideally with a 5 speed I find 4.56 is great with 35's for the street...but 4.56 with 33's is even better for wheeling...decisions....decisions.

Beezil said:

do gears.

you already ARE a stroker.

Click to expand...

:moon: :moon: :moon:






PS- Thanks for the help!