Pitman Arm Ball Joint Won't Separate, HELP!

Hey guys,

My dad and I are installing an RE kit on my 96 XJ right now. We're trying to disconnect the steering linkage at the bottom of the pitman arm, but it just won't come out. Any tips? I've been calling auto parts stores all over the place looking for an impact ball joint pickle fork, but I still haven't found a place with one in stock, and now it's past 5 on Saturday anyway. I've thought about heating it, but where should I heat it exactly? Any help would be much appreciated.

Colin

there are these out there:


but i MUCH prefer these:


both are available at Autozone with their free loan-a-tool program, but i have really made good use out of just buying one, they're only about $10

Do not use the first one pictured on a pitman arm. The working part of the tie rod (drag link) end joint is in the part that stays in the vehicle. Beating the snot out of it with a pickle fork and BFH is not going to help it live long and prosper.

Use the second type. It doesn't put any stress on the joint, only on the end of the stud.

One technique I´ve found that works well for me, is to tighten the puller until it is under a lot of pressure, stopping just before, the point where it feels like something is going to deform or break. Then finding a solid looking spot to hit it with a hammer. The hammer strike, is just to jar things some and doesn´t have to be in an area to help with seperation. A penny stuck between the screw end of the puller and bolt, saves a lot of damage to the puller and bolt.
Different, manufacturers use slightly different pieces, before using a fork, if you must, lift the dust seal and see if there isn´t a sheet metal (round) type cover over the joint. The fork often ruins the dust shield (rubber) and the grease cup (sheet metal).
I have a hindged type, ball joint puller,more pressure makes more the grip, that fits most every size. Manufactured by Diamond tool, thats lasted 30 years.
Coating the wedge (cone) bolt (or stud, whatever it´s called) with lithium grease, makes disassembly much easier the next time.

Thanks for the suggestions. We've already tried using a gear puller (as I think the device pictured above is called?). I'm really not worried about the rubber anymore because we've beaten the piss out of it already and I'm going to have to replace it anyway. I think I'll try the gear puller again, the only thing is I can't get enough leverage on it with a wrench in such a small space. Any more suggestions would be appreciated as well. Thanks.

Colin

it's not a gear puller, it's a tie-rod end puller, check it out: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...an_a_tool/pullers_specialized/tie_rod_end.jsp

Is there a way to double wrench it? Or get a cheater on the end of the wrench?

An occasional wrap on the side of the stud (cone bolt) seat on the pitman arm has helped me in the past, after the puller was tightened to the point of explosion. Used a large cresent to stabilize the puller and double wrench to tighten the puller. Thought it was gonna explode before it finally came apart.
Used an old hammer head, metal working hammer, flat on one side, wedged on the other, think they are called creasing hammers. Had a really stuborn track bar, ball type joint, the wedge end of the hammer head worked well. Ruined the ball joint though.

8Mud said:

An occasional wrap on the side of the stud (cone bolt) seat on the pitman arm has helped me in the past, after the puller was tightened to the point of explosion. Used a large cresent to stabilize the puller and double wrench to tighten the puller. Thought it was gonna explode before it finally came apart.
Used an old hammer head, metal working hammer, flat on one side, wedged on the other, think they are called creasing hammers. Had a really stuborn track bar, ball type joint, the wedge end of the hammer head worked well. Ruined the ball joint though.

Click to expand...

This is the technique used by many alignment shops as well (or at least it used to be). In case others didn't figure out what's being talked about, here it is again. The secret is, first, to get some tension on the stud, using a puller. Sometimes it's enough just to get some leverage, if you're doing a tie rod. Then, with a hard (steel, no cushioning), reasonably heavy hammer, hit the SIDE of the part INTO WHICH THE STUD GOES, not the stud! You're not trying to force the stud out, but to cause a tiny momentary deformation of the hole it goes into. If you hit it just right, the stud will almost always pop out, without damage.

Ok, I will try all of these ideas today. Thanks again for all the suggestions, I'll let you know how it goes. (smile in the face of adversity)

Colin