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big 3 power upgrade?

MCD

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Perryton TX
i hung out on some audio forums and i was told that if you upgrade your power wires you can run more stuff with less drain on your batery. i think it was the batery ground, + to the starter and starter to alt. i would like to know if any one has heard of it, it sounds true since the alt power wire is pretty small, but i dont want power overload. i dont know if maybe the alt wire is a way to limit power so you dont blow your bat.

p.s. i have some offreoad lights and i want more, and maybe a winch and bump'n system
 
Yeah, I have a link at home from the sounddomain forum. Upgrading those should help as it's the first thing most of the guys do, but maybe try getting an Optima type battery and maybe a new alternator if you're running that many accessories.
 
Certainly. Larger gage wiring (smaller number) has a lower inherent resistance than smaller wiring (larger number) - which will increase accessory power slightly. You will want to change five wires - alt-to-battery, starter-to-start relay, battery-to-start relay, battery-to-chassis, engine-to-firewall. I use 2/0 for all my main power leads.

I also second the idea of getting a higher output alternator and better battery if you run that much electrics - I have a local shop that set my Delco up for 200A (I got lucky) and I installed an Optima Red Top. I plan on a couple Deep Cycles to be added later (is that the Yellow or Blue top? I don't recall...) with all batteries relocated to behind the driver's seat. Being as tall as I am, no-one wants to sit behind me...

Why the extra batteries? I'll also be adding more lighting, some radios, and I sometimes need the ability to run power tools and battery chargers on "remote" sites. I plan on using a 100%DC solenoid in place of a solid-state isolator (more power handling and greater reliability,) and running nearly all accessory power from the DC batteries. The starting battery will be just for starting and running the engine.

Of course, the battery is there to start the engine, and to absorb surges in power demand until the alternator can catch up. If you design your system well, it won't be a problem (unless you install an electric winch, which will nearly always want some battery capacity - even with the engine running.) Bear in mind that most alternators - even with a decent idle output - won't give you max output until the engine is going 2500-3000RPM...

5-90
 
i will eventually get a bigger alt and i want a yellow top as soon as i have $. but right now i have some 0/2 batery wire and conectors will cost me about 10 bucks. ill probally solder them since crimping is like 2 bucks a connector.
 
The largest part of a major power connexion is the mechanical connexion - did you ever see large industrial power setups? There's a reason they're all crimped and bolted, and it's not got a lot to do with maintainability.

I crimp - always have, always will. I do put a little "paste" solder into the join and heat it after I crimp, but my major connexions will ALWAYS be crimped. If you don't use solder paste, use Ox-Gard, which I recommend for connexions closer to the ground line. Also, after you crimp and whatever else, apply heat shrink or cold shrink tape to seal the crimp lug to the cable jacket, so you don't get it all crudded up over time.

Again - DON'T SOLDER THE BIG WIRES. Crimp them, even if it costs extra. It's too much of a pain to assure that you will get full saturation of the strands in a large cable with molten solder. Crimp it, crimp it, CRIMP IT!

5-90 :soapbox:
 
i have seen it done before. cut some soder strands and put them in the lug and heat it. then press the cable in and let it cool. that way all ihave to do is buy a roll of soder instead of paying 20 bucks for a guy to crimp them for me. i am also using brass terminals and in my experience crimping brass really bites.
 
I just used a big butane torch to fill the connectors about half full of solder, then jam the wires in there and do the shrink wrap bit.... worked great on the chev'....
 
5-90 what kinda alt do u have that you modified for 200a?

gupandme that is exactly what i want to do but i cant find any shrink wrap for 2/0
 
MCD said:
gupandme that is exactly what i want to do but i cant find any shrink wrap for 2/0

You can find any size heat shrink at electrical supply stores...especially if you have access to wholesale guys.
 
I agree with this guy as far as crimping goes. I work for an electrical utility and we crimp all our big stuff. Personally, I've upgraded all my connections to 4 guage (not 4/0) and crimp and solder all my connections.
I'm running a winch, dual Optima yellows (with 4/0 tying them in parallel), disconnects and 500 A fuses. It's a pretty simple setup, but works really well. The dual Yellows are great for running the stereo all night at a bush party and starting the truck up with your frineds standing around, waiting to offer you a boost. :wave1:

5-90 said:
The largest part of a major power connexion is the mechanical connexion - did you ever see large industrial power setups? There's a reason they're all crimped and bolted, and it's not got a lot to do with maintainability.

I crimp - always have, always will. I do put a little "paste" solder into the join and heat it after I crimp, but my major connexions will ALWAYS be crimped. If you don't use solder paste, use Ox-Gard, which I recommend for connexions closer to the ground line. Also, after you crimp and whatever else, apply heat shrink or cold shrink tape to seal the crimp lug to the cable jacket, so you don't get it all crudded up over time.

Again - DON'T SOLDER THE BIG WIRES. Crimp them, even if it costs extra. It's too much of a pain to assure that you will get full saturation of the strands in a large cable with molten solder. Crimp it, crimp it, CRIMP IT!

5-90 :soapbox:
 
5-90 said:
I plan on a couple Deep Cycles to be added later (is that the Yellow or Blue top? I don't recall...) 5-90

That's the Yellow top. The Blue is a marine battery, but i plan on using my yellow for marine as well. I've been told yellow works just as well if not better.
 
It's a Delco (Renix-era XJ) with a terribly fortunate core. The batch it came from was spec'd for [email protected] (full)/[email protected] (idle) - I recall that I'm getting [email protected] (full)/[email protected] (idle.) No complaints here - since the system will only demand what it wants, I'm not worried about overages.

If you check around and find a local shop for your rebuilds, take the time to foster a decent relationship (and send them business, and make sure they know you're doing it!) and you can start seeing things like this happen. I've known of shops who find some really good parts, and set them aside for their "better" customers - guys like me who send loads of people, and therefore dollars, their way...

5-90
 
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