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Unit Bearing/Hub dilemma

Lucas

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ZOO YORK CITY
I was swapping in some 297 hoints/shafts/hubs, but the 12pt 13mm bolts holding the hub-beaing were very rusted. I used a prybar to turn them 1/4 a time, and after about and hour I had 5 of 6 done. The last one had about 1/8 inch of bolt exposed on the hub side when it stopped moving, I guess the threads were too nasty. Anyway, Now when I try to turn the bolt, the 12pt wrench Im using will bend and then "unload" as the teeth slip over the splines of the bolt. It looks like the bolt splines are a little rounded, but not stripped. Now I can't turn the bolt either way. Vice grips arent going to work as it took the foot long wrench and the entire length of my Hi-lift handle just to move it slowly to that point. I used PB before, during and after.
It got dark so I gave up. Hopefully by morning the PB will loosen it somewhat overnight. If not, what do you guys suggest I do? If I can't turn it, should I just cut off the head and pop the hub out? Then what?
TIA
 
looks like reason to go buy a welder and weld a nut to the top of the rounded over bolt. also torch to heat up the bolt when taking it out.
 
89xj said:
looks like reason to go buy a welder and weld a nut to the top of the rounded over bolt. also torch to heat up the bolt when taking it out.

Damn, thats a good idea.I have access to a welder, just in a city three hours away :flamemad: . I have to make a three hour drive tomorrow afternoon.
So I guess If I cant get it moving Ill cut off the head and grind in some wrench flats wiht an angle grinder then twist it out? Is there an easier option? I dont think I cold grind on the head accurately enough to make wrench flats while the bolt is on the axle.
 
I only have basic hand tools and an angle grinder. If I went out and got a propane torch, whould it get adequately hot?
 
thats what i use most times . mapp gas it a bit hotter and can be use with a propane torch. put the heat back on the treads not on the head . if you can feed a lil bit of parafin wax into it that would help also
 
The thing is that there is only like 1/4 inch of thread left on the backside of the hub, and Im araid if the hub gets too hot its gonna melt the seals/grease. no?
 
I'd just cut the head off, then you can work on getting out whats left in the hub on the bench or in a vice rather than hunched over in the wheel well. It's amazing how much easier thing like this come out when you aren't doing an imatation of a pretzel ;) Plus it'll be much easier to drill it out straight if need be.
Mike B.
 
I think 1986 has the best solution, because there will be a substantial stub left when the hub comes out. However, another thing worth trying first is to see if you can get a slightly smaller socket onto the head. The heads start out as 13 mm., and a 1/2 inch socket will often fit better when they're worn. If that still slips, there's even a possibility of hammering a 12 mm. socket over the head and getting it that way.
 
Listen to Matthew Currie. I had this problem and that is what I did. used a 1/2 till it started stripping. then I hammered a 12mm socket on it. Get PB Blaster and keep it in your kit!
 
Got it, heated the flange around the bolt and it started twisting again. Now I have fatty Ujoints! woohoo! Thanks a ton guys.
 
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Good to hear lucas, I'm doing the same thing right now actually.. Jeep is sitting on jackstands right now.. Couldn't get it out thursday night, then I had to help the girlfriend move. You just use a propane torch? All I have :( But if it worked for you, it'll probably work for me..

Love the hi-lift idea, i was just using a little 18" piece of pipe i had laying around. :doh:

Hodge
 
Needed every inch of the hi lift handle too, those things were on tight. I just got a little blue bottle of propane and heated up the area around the bolt for like 3 minutes.
 
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