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chavy dana 60 to driver drop

gearwhine

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver, CO
I'm going for a 60 front, but not really caring to spend 1K on a HP housing. I can get a chavy king pin housing for fairly cheap. I want to swap it over to driver side drop. Wondering if i can just swap the axle tubes by drilling the rosette welds, heating the center secton, then pulling them out, then press them back in. Swapping knuckles accordingly and such. Seems easy enough to me. Anything that's really difficult about doing this? Thanks _nicko_
 
here's something I've been thinking about tinkering with. Kind of an out there idea but here it goes. Just flip the axle over cut knuckles and have them reset where they would need to be. You'd have a hp60 for much less cost. From what I'm thinking and I'm sure I'm probably wrong, you'd have to plug the current vent and fill holes and drill new ones, have the knuckles swaped and create a steering preferably a high steer setup. Just a thought I've had to try. I'm probably gonna find me a 44 to try it on so I'm not out as much money If I completely f it up. Or you could loosen the tubes as you were talkin and just rotate em in the carrier till you had them at the proper position and reweld em.
 
maybe im wrong but wouldnt your tires be wanting to spin in a reversed motion?


i have a chevy front 60 (still passneger side drop) what i am going to do is cut the tube and sleeve it together. do a search under my user name you will find the post(about 3weeks old now). its good stuff
 
never mind on mine, my brain obviously isn't working. The front would be trying to go in reverse direction of the front. Just thought about it more after I posted that. Unless you could figure out a way to make the front driveshaft change directions hahaha my thought is completely useless.

Brain Dead
 
To shorten the drivers side is easy, cut off the knuckle and machine out the remaining tube out of it, cut tube to desired length and press/weld on the knuckle. Doing it this way will leave you with a reference point from the passenger side for adjusting the knuckle.

Passenger side is a bit more work. Cut the knuckle off and the tube at the center section, machine out the remaining tube and drill out the welds points from center section and the tube from the knuckle. Get a fresh tube have it pressed in the center, cut to length, press/weld on the knuckle and you're done.

This is the way i did mine. :wave:
 
XJoachim said:
To shorten the drivers side is easy, cut off the knuckle and machine out the remaining tube out of it, cut tube to desired length and press/weld on the knuckle. Doing it this way will leave you with a reference point from the passenger side for adjusting the knuckle.

Passenger side is a bit more work. Cut the knuckle off and the tube at the center section, machine out the remaining tube and drill out the welds points from center section and the tube from the knuckle. Get a fresh tube have it pressed in the center, cut to length, press/weld on the knuckle and you're done.

This is the way i did mine. :wave:

yeah, that's what I was planning on doing with cutting the driver side down, but i figured, why not try to save some more moeny and swap the tubes. But I guess I'm gonna spend so much anyway, might as well get a fresh tube.

Ehh...that was a worthless link, it's all about transfer cases. Thanks though. :) I do recall the axle tube sleeving post, not something I'm going to want to do, but I'll look it up anyway.

Crazy cooter, you're idea is not very far out there, MANY people have posted wanting to do jsut that...and you know...they don't know crap. :moon: :yap: no offense.

Thanks _nicko_
 
one quick question XJoachim, or anyone else. With press in axle tubes, as in dana 60's. You don't need an alignment bar like in a ford 9" or anything right? The press should completely take care of straightening the axle tubes out correct? Thanks _nicko_
 
Yep, but it's always a good thing to check straightness before welding the tubes to the center. :greensmok
 
crazy_cooter56 said:
gee thanks for the words of encouragement :)
Oh and what does jsut mean? thought maybe I needed informed j/k

haha, you're so welcome!! jsut, well, It means I'm a dumbass that can't type. To tell you the truth, I'm fast at typing but absolutely horrific at the same time. People have to decipher my words on AIM it's so bad.

XJoachim, thanks for the help. Now I just have a to find a good deal on a 60, which is proving to be pretty f'in hard. I found a nice dodge set-up, but it has external drive flanges, and I'm thinking if I'm spending so much, I should stick with the internals. That chevy wasn't as good of a deal as I thought it would be. _nicko_
 
If you are just getting the housing make sure you have some extra money in your budget. I picked up a chevy 60 housing, tubes, and inner c's for cheap cheap. After adding knuckles, hubs, spindles, shafts, bearings, seals, brakes, gears, locker, steering arms, etc. I was out about 3,000 and that's me doing all the labor!
 
SewerBoss said:
If you are just getting the housing make sure you have some extra money in your budget. I picked up a chevy 60 housing, tubes, and inner c's for cheap cheap. After adding knuckles, hubs, spindles, shafts, bearings, seals, brakes, gears, locker, steering arms, etc. I was out about 3,000 and that's me doing all the labor!

Yeah, I was going to buy a dana 60 housing and inner knuckles...then I started pricing stuff, and the 900-1200 doesn't seem so bad if there are a good amount of usable parts on it. it's ridiculous. I'm just going to keep looking until the right one shows up.
 
Look at http://www.boyceequipment.com they should be able to get you a chevy 60. Definitely stick with the internal, besides new custom length axles (because i shortened it a bit) and 35 spline outers with WARN premium hubs i did not NEED to replace anything else. I put in a Detroit and gears ( 5.86 ) but that does not count into needed mods :D

If you plan to do gears yourself definitely get a housing spreader because you will not be able to remove the carrier or set it up correctly without it.
 
I will have to think about the about the new 60's. Good deal, but I was looking for kingpin knuckles rather than balljoint. Maybe I'll have to make some compromises.

Yeah, hopefully I can find an axle where all I need to replace are those few parts. Custom shafts are expected already. Why a case spreader? I've done 5 regears, (3 danas) so far and have never needed a case spreader. Sure it may be a bit easier, but for 300+ bucks that I've seen them for...I'll work a bit harder. :) Thanks for the help. hpi you'll get a PM soon. _nicko_
 
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