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rear spring lift blocks

shimmy

shimmy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
seattle, WA
does anyone run a 3" lift block in the rear? can you stack a 1.5 and 1.5 lift block? where does one find such a 3" lift block?
 
shimmy said:
does anyone run a 3" lift block in the rear? can you stack a 1.5 and 1.5 lift block? where does one find such a 3" lift block?
Click to expand...

Please tell me you're joking :explosion

To answer your question... some people run 3" lift blocks, typically posers. And you can stack 2 blocks as long as you inform me of when and where you'll be on the road so that I can avoid you ;)

Basically - :nono:

Billy
 
Sure u can stack blocks--let us know how it goes. Seriously it is never a good idea to use blocks let alone stack them. Go with a full length add a leaf.
 
GoalPoster said:
dumbass question from the nooooooooob . . . .

Why are lift blocks a bad thing????
Click to expand...
Blocks are NOT that bad. Many here use them with success. If you only need to go up another inch or two, a block will give you the needed lift without a heavily-arched spring. This equates to more flex because the spring is flatter. Richard (Goatman) has used them, and he's no poser! I've aso talked to guys who MAKE leaf packs, and they tell me that blocks are fine if used within reason. (moderate height, don't stack, etc)
 
Most consider lift blocks bad because they increase the leverage of the axle on the spring...think twisting motion about the axle. This will increase your axle wrap and since XJ spring packs are generally fairly soft due to the light vehicle weight the axle wrap increase can be substantial. Also, some guys have made lift blocks out of funny materials and/or designs in which case they can crack and fail creating a dangerous situation.

I say keep everything in moderation when lifting a vehicle. If you already have the desired spring rate and want a little more lift then I think a block is fine...in moderation. i.e. 1.5" and under. If you want a bit more lift go with a slightly longer shackle...etc.

Now, if your current spring packs are soft adding a block will make them die quicker so an add-a-leaf or new spring back would be the best route to take.

It all depends on your current setup and how you like it.
 
BillR said:
Block are NOT that bad. Many here use them with success. If you only need to go up another inch or two, a block will give you the needed lift without a heavily-arched spring. This equates to more flex because the spring is flatter. Richard (Goatman) has used them, and he's no poser! I've aso talked to guys who MAKE leaf packs, and they tell me that blocks are fine if used within reason. (moderate height, don't stack, etc)
Click to expand...


Right now, I'm considering a pair of OME rear springs that will net me about 2.25".

I need 3" to match the front end components that I've picked up (3" Rusty's coils, LCAs and a Skyjacker adjustable track bar).

So, I've been trying to get information to determine if shackles, lift blocks or a combination of the two can be used to get the OME springs to the 3" that I need. (It was suggested that I go 3.5" in the rear but I forget exactly why I'm supposed to be doing that).

Anyhow . . . if blocks and shakles are good, how about a combination of .75 in. shackles and .5 in blocks to bet the 3" to 3.5" that I need?

It would seem to me that a combination of the two would be better than going 1.25 in. either way. For some reason that makes sense to me.

:confused1

Any advice would be helpful.
 
GoalPoster said:
Right now, I'm considering a pair of OME rear springs that will net me about 2.25".

I need 3" to match the front end components that I've picked up (3" Rusty's coils, LCAs and a Skyjacker adjustable track bar).

So, I've been trying to get information to determine if shackles, lift blocks or a combination of the two can be used to get the OME springs to the 3" that I need. (It was suggested that I go 3.5" in the rear but I forget exactly why I'm supposed to be doing that).

Anyhow . . . if blocks and shakles are good, how about a combination of .75 in. shackles and .5 in blocks to bet the 3" to 3.5" that I need?

It would seem to me that a combination of the two would be better than going 1.25 in. either way. For some reason that makes sense to me.

:confused1

Any advice would be helpful.
Click to expand...
That should work great. Get a tapered block if you need more help with the pinion angle than the shackle provides. (providing you have an SYE; if not, get the flat block)
 
I haven't the SYE at this time.

I'm still putting together the lift and will see how much dough I have left after that, althought the presence of shimmy-shimmy-shake after install may hasten that decision in rather short fashion.

I'd do it straight way, but it is a 98 XJ and I'm only going 3 to 3.5 in. now so any big jiggles may be resolved short tern by a transfer case drop until I can afford to do it right with the SYE and shaft.

And, by the time I get inchitis, I'll be able to afford the good stuff!!!!

So, I'll be going with the flat blocks and shackles for now . . . probably 1 in. with shackles to help with the angles and .5 in with blocks to compensate for the spring height.
 
GoalPoster said:
I haven't the SYE at this time.

I'm still putting together the lift and will see how much dough I have left after that, althought the presence of shimmy-shimmy-shake after install may hasten that decision in rather short fashion.

I'd do it straight way, but it is a 98 XJ and I'm only going 3 to 3.5 in. now so any big jiggles may be resolved short tern by a transfer case drop until I can afford to do it right with the SYE and shaft.

And, by the time I get inchitis, I'll be able to afford the good stuff!!!!

So, I'll be going with the flat blocks and shackles for now . . . probably 1 in. with shackles to help with the angles and .5 in with blocks to compensate for the spring height.
Click to expand...
I have a tapered 1/2" block with a 2 degree shim built into it and a tcase drop also that are not being used.
We will talk, poster.
Hasta.
 
bgcntry72 said:
I have a tapered 1/2" block with a 2 degree shim built into it and a tcase drop also that are not being used.
We will talk, poster.
Hasta.
Click to expand...
hey if he doesn`t want the blocks i`ll try to deal
 
I've got a set of 1/2" blocks I'll sell if you're interested. Solid metal with the hole drilled down the middle so you can put the spring pin through the block. PM me if you're interested.
 
I have 2.25" of blocks.......and I stack three blocks. Damn, I do all the wrong things. :D

The advice here on blocks is good. They should not be stacked unless you really know what your doing. I have three 3/4" solid steel Tomken blocks that are pinned all the way through, and I eventually welded them together. I also run 9/16", rather than 1/2", U-bolts. I also run a traction bar to eliminate spring wrap, which will be increased with more than a very small block.

The advantage of blocks is that you can easily level out your rig, and they let you run a flatter spring that will generally flex better, but will also wear out faster since it will flex backwards. To me, the small 1/2" and 3/4" blocks that are designed to make small suspension adjustments can be stacked (only a couple of them), but the U-bolts should be tightened regularly. Larger 1" to 2" (or even 3") blocks should never be stacked, and aluminum blocks should NEVER be used.
 
GoalPoster said:
dumbass question from the nooooooooob . . . .

Why are lift blocks a bad thing????
Click to expand...

One lift block (per side) is bad because it kills the springs. Think "lever arm." Under acceleration and deceleration, the rear axle wants to rotate in the opposite direction from the tires. The leaf springs are what resist that rotation. Put in blocks, and the axis of rotation is farther away from the spring. Longer lever arm ==> more spring wrap ==> sagged springs.

TWO blocks per side is probably an accident waiting to happen. Unless they are steel blocks and are welded together, the setup will be extremely unstable, and likely to spit out the blocks at the worst possible time.

Lastly (if you need more), the inexpensive blocks most places sell are aluminum, and they disintegrate after awhile. We had one XJ at NACFest last year who powdered two lift blocks on the trail.

Longer shackles ride nice and add articulation, but they also kill the springs. The best budget boost is a FULL-LENGTH add-a-leaf.
 
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