Rear Shock Mounts

After putting my lift on my 96 XJ, I went to throw in new rear shocks. During the process all four of the top bolts snapped due to rust. My question is this, is there a way to mount new shocks in there? I can drill out whats left of the busted off bolts, but is there a way to put new bolts in with a nut? Or is there something else I can do.


Thanks much,

Darren

Rear Shock Mount Bolts

When they snap off, the fun starts. I lifted the jeep with jack stands under the spring hanger in front of the axle, and let the axle droop down. With the wheel off, this made enough room to drill out the broken bolts. If you want to live through this, use secure supports- your head will be in the wheel well, and will squash like a melon if that jeep drops. Centre-punch the broken bolt, then drill a small hole using an industrial-quality bit, then a large bit to final diameter. The "easy-out" didn't work- I drilled out to next size up (this meant going from metric to an inch size) and tapped the hole. Then file out the gap in the bar-pin on the shock to fit the slightly larger bolt (easy). Do yourself (or the next owner) a BIG favour: use anti-seize on the bolts- they'll never seize and snap again! I use antiseize on anything on the outside of the jeep- great stuff. 4xBob

I have been planning out a shock hoop that relocates the upper mounts inboard. it allows the use of taller shocks for more flex.
alot of people have been asking me about it but I have been without a chop saw for a few weeks. at $150 a blade. picking one up tomorrow, so I will start to make these hoops. if you can live for about a week without rear shocks, I might be able to get you an early release.
[email protected]

After snapping off 2 of the upper shock bolts, I tried to use the ez-out, snapped that too, had to get them torched out and re-tapped. Those broke about a month later and the shop drilled them out and used a nut and bolt on the back of the stock mount. This was the r side. After getting new Rancho RSX's last fall I looked under there to see what the shop did. Now there's apparently some sort of stud welded under there with a lock nut and washer on that side. Not really sure what they did, but it hasn't broke yet. It's a crappy design from the beginning if you ask me, especially for people who live in the "rust belt". Funny thing is, the L side never had this problem, go figure...

Eliminating the Pins

I've heard about people fabricating shock mounts for the upper mount in the rear and using a shock with an eye on each end. Is there any advantage to doing it this way?

XJFREK said:

After snapping off 2 of the upper shock bolts, I tried to use the ez-out, snapped that too, had to get them torched out and re-tapped.

Click to expand...

Go to a machine shop supply and get a left-hand drill bit about 1/4" or so while you're getting some good quality 1/8" bits for drilling the pilot holes. Soak the bolts down really good the day before with PB Blaster or other good penetrationg oil and do it again right before you start drilling the pilots; the heat generated by drilling the pilots will help the oil wick into the threads to make it easier for the left-hand bit to unscrew the bolts as you drill them out. Take your time & don't rush the process; let the drill do the work & don't force it or you'l be having to remove the broken bits of hardened steel from the drills!

Good luck!

there's a post somewhere that says to drill a 1 inch hole from the top and just through bolt it. They said to center the hole saw with a pilot from the bottom.

I just did this yesterday! After screwing around with easy out, drills, etc, I figured out the easy way.

If you look at the mount there is a recess between the two bolts for the top of the shock to fit up into. Take a 1/8" bit and drill up through the little hole that's in it into your floor board. Then peel the carpet back in the rear, grab a 2-3" hole saw and cut a hole in your floor using your 1/8" hole as the pilot. This exposes the top of the bolts. Now grab a cold chisel and a 3lb sledge. Place the chisel at the top of the bolt that is sticking through the nut and whack it. The weldnuts on mine popped right off.

Go to the store grab 4 5/16-.75 bolts, nuts and washers. (Get std grade if you want to weld them like me) Drop the bolt in through the top, put the nut and washer underneath. You have two choices now. You can either tack the tops of the bolts to the mounts and now you'll have "weldstuds" sticking out the bottom. Or you can leave them as is and make changing shocks a two man job.

Depending on which way you go you'll have to figure out something for the large holes in the rear of the jeep. If you welded the bolts in you can take the cutout from your holes saw and weld them right back in. If you left the bolts loose you can still do that I suppose but you'll have to cut them back out in the future to access the bolts. You'd probably also have to use a smaller or larger holesaw as I don't think it'll be easy to saw through the welds.

Anyhow, that's what I did.

Eric

I have the first "prototype" so to say, rear cross member from RawBrown. Im VERY happy with it so far. Check it out: http://community.webshots.com/photo/107946507/107946987fQiIDX

This ones been around awhile, Rawbrown's looks alot beefier though:

http://home.earthlink.net/~crossent/CrossJeep.html

Bottom of the page.

What's the point of having on shock infront of the axle and one behind? The one in the link has both behind the axle. What will that effect?

I tryed looking at Rawbrowns site to see that setup but his site won't come up. Am I stupid or what?

Upper Shock Mounts

I gave this one some thought and I can't see why it wouldn't work. Take the rear swaybar mounts and weld them to the underbody. They're the right width to use with a shock and I dont' see why that wouldnt' work.

Rawbrowns What you getting for those? they look good

haven't really decided on a price yet. thinkin about somewhere in the $120 range or so.

my wife just published a few pages of my website just 15 min ago.
www.rawbrown.com
no pics of the shock hoop up yet but I will get it up there soon.

and to answer the question about why one shock is in front and one is in back of the axle.
simple, axle wrap.
since shocks have different valving between compression and rebound. so in an axle wrap situation you get the same amount of damping between wrap direction. if the shocks are on the same side then you would have really good damping as the pinion bounced up but then it would let go on rebound.

XJWheelie said:

I gave this one some thought and I can't see why it wouldn't work. Take the rear swaybar mounts and weld them to the underbody. They're the right width to use with a shock and I dont' see why that wouldnt' work.

Click to expand...

I had this done on my '99 and will do it on my '93. welded so you never have to mess with it again. Keeps the bolts from the brackets and run them through the shock bushing. if the bushing isn;t big enough heat up the bolt and the rubber will melt. :bunny:

Rawbrown, I like your set up. I'd might be interested in a pre-release version. I have been without my rear shocks for a couple of weeks now, interesting ride to say the least.

Thanks to everyone for their tips, advice and suggestions. Its greatly appreciated.

I had the same problem a couple weeks ago and I used the 1" hole saw technique. IT WORKED GREAT !! what you do is jack up your rig, pull out any carpet still in the "bed", and get out the ol' electric drill. Rechageable just doesnt have enuff butt. Drill up thru the broken bolt all the way up thru the rear floor board. After you have done this, go to the top and center a 1" hole saw in the pilot holes you made from the bottom, and drill. Now you should have a nice opening allowing you access to the top of the mounting brackets. Now from the bottom you can install your shocks and your bolts, then you can put a nut on the bolt and not have to worry about them again.

Like I said I did this and I have had zero problems since then. Before it was everytime I went down the road, a shock came loose and beat on the floorboard. PLUS IT WAS EASY !!!

arty:

Also interested in your setup RawBrown.. can you PM me with a cost?


Thanks