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hack-n-tap vs. new shaft sye

xjhm

NAXJA Forum User
Location
pikeville,ky
99 xj automatic i am going to the sle setup......what are the pros. and cons of each.....i understand the compexity of each and feel capable of my install abilities.......so whats do you guys think.......and what transfer case should my xj have in it.............thanks
 
Ive had my hack and tap for about 2-3 months now, if you searched youd` find my topic asking the exact same thing, well bout 2 weeks ago I sheared the "Tap" bolt right outta my output shaft, luckily I got the broken peice out fairly easily and put a slighty larger bolt in there. Now this happened on the street, Ive got lockers 456s and 37" swampers. Sure the Hack N Tap solved my driveline vibes but its not all that strong! :wstupid:
 
BIG98XJ said:
Ive had my hack and tap for about 2-3 months now, if you searched youd` find my topic asking the exact same thing, well bout 2 weeks ago I sheared the "Tap" bolt right outta my output shaft, luckily I got the broken peice out fairly easily and put a slighty larger bolt in there. Now this happened on the street, Ive got lockers 456s and 37" swampers. Sure the Hack N Tap solved my driveline vibes but its not all that strong! :wstupid:

How did you tear the bolt? Unless you tightened it WAY too much and weakened it, I can't see that happening. There is not much force on that bolt, and the washer on the flange would pull out way before the bolt tore (there is pretty much NO shear force on it), and the only other force is taken up by the slip in the driveshaft. If the DS bottomed out, the wahers would tear, and if it's over entended, the driveshaft would pull apart before pulling a boly apart. This was installation error. All the froces that have to be worried about are rotational which the flange splines and the shaft take care of, not the bolt.

xjhm...the only thing you need to worry about for the most part is the stock output shaft. If you plan on going big in the future...just get the HD SYE so you don't waste money on keeping the stock shaft, which I'm sure you're going to want to do, so just get the HD one. Skorpyo snapped a rear stock shaft with the d35, 33's and a locker, which isn't very modified at all. HTH _nicko_
 
am i correct to assume my 99 xj has the np231 case?
if there is more than one case in the `99s how can i tell which i have...
 
xjhm said:
am i correct to assume my 99 xj has the np231 case?
if there is more than one case in the `99s how can i tell which i have...

If your t-case has 4 positions, including 4HI Part-time and 4HI Full-time, then you have a NP 242.
If your t-case only has 3 positions, then it is an NP231.
HTH.
 
bgcntry72 said:
If your t-case has 4 positions, including 4HI Part-time and 4HI Full-time, then you have a NP 242.
If your t-case only has 3 positions, then it is an NP231.
HTH.

Like this:

NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2H - 4H - N - 4L - used 87-01

NP242 - "Selec-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO - used 87-01
 
There have been a number of threads about this. I just finished installing an SYE in my 1999 XJ's 231. A lot of people never have a problem with the hack-n-taps. However, enough people have had problems with the hack-n-taps that I decided to go with an HD output shaft. My 1999 is my primary vehicle and I didn't want to risk having any complications later.

I was really intimidated by the idea of cracking open my transfer case. I need not have been. Even with the unexpected problem of one of the case bolts having been bent beforehand it was not a bad project. I had no idea what I was doing and it was still pretty strait forward.

If you do go with the HD output shaft there are a couple of things I learned the hard way that might help you. I couldn't get the slinger off - it can be easily cut off with a dremel by cutting along the output shaft. Also, I wasn't knowledgeable enough to know that the rear seal is the entire metal cap at the end of the output cone, not just the rubber around the shaft. I was able to collapse (destroy) it as I didn't need that either.

Also, everywhere you look people will tell you to get a good pair of lock ring pliers. I tried using the universal ones from a chain auto parts store - it was a waste of time. I strongly recommend getting lock ring, and retaining ring pliers from Sears. They made things a lot easier.

Craftsman Lock Ring Pliers

Craftsman Qtr-Turn® Convertible Retaining Ring Pliers


Good luck.

-Brian


xjhm said:
99 xj automatic i am going to the sle setup......what are the pros. and cons of each.....i understand the compexity of each and feel capable of my install abilities.......so whats do you guys think.......and what transfer case should my xj have in it.............thanks
 
What it boils down to is are you planning to keep this t-case. Do you feel you would ever need a stronger T-case than the 231 or a lower crawl ratio? If the answer to this is yeas than I would put as little money into the 231 as possible to get you by untill you can get an Atlas or what ever else you want to put in it. If you feel your gearing is more than adequate & you're wheeling doesn't get way extreme than spend the extra money now & do the HD SYE from AA & plan on keeping the 231. I went with the Hack & Tap from RE because it was cheap with the full intention of going with an atlas at a later date. It's been 3 years & 8 slashed tires later & the T-case & SYE are still going strong without a hickup. One of these days I'll break out the credit card when the wifes not looking & finally get that Atlas...

Matt
 
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