is this safe to drive?

Hey ppls,

Just finished installing these components for a 3.5" lift except for the transfer case drop kit.

OME 930 - OME(Old Man Emu) 2" coil springs
OMEJC2A/B - OME H/D rear leaf packs
JCXL OME - additional leafs
N35L OME - extra long shocks front
N36L OME - extra long shocks rear
OMEU57 - OME longer u-bolts
RE1334 - RE coil spring spacers
RE1383 - 3" Front bumpstops
RE1467 - 4 degree shims rear springs
RE1515 - Rear s/steel brake line
RE2700 - RE extended greasable shackles
SUB/PANTIE - Front adjustable panhard rod
MP/TIEROD - Tie Rod End (genuine)

I was going to do the xfer case on the w/end.

I went for a slow spin round the block and I'm getting a knock from the xfer case or the rear, not sure. It only occurs on deceleration?
Do you know what it is?
Is it safe to limp it to the tire shop and back(7mile)?

My Baja's are sitting in the shop waiting and I was hoping to get em fitted, then home to do the drop kit. Plus the tires will give me a little more work space under car.

If they're not fitted tomorrow It will be another week(been two already) before it can be done. :doh:

Thanks

Sounds like driveline noise. It will occur more on decel than at other times.

Have you had it at freeway speeds to see about other vibs.

time for sye or try the tcase lowering kit.

mark

what year XJ is it?

most likely, it's the u-joint bottoming out in the slipyoke. you could slap on a YJ yoke and run that to eliminate the clunking but there are NO GUARANTEES that you won't have vibes to deal with.

The knock is as loud as someone knocking on your tailgate.

Not going to highway speed till I know it's safe.

Ok simple one then to check

Shackle on tail pipe.

HTH

mark

Why dont you just do the t-case drop. It should take you all of 15 min. W/ hand tools.

XJ's a '95

Just wanted to get the tires first cause 15min jobs for me have a real bad habit of just not taking 15min.
Once I have the tires then I have plenty of time to do the drop kit. Unfortunately it does not work visa-versa.

most likely, it's the u-joint bottoming out in the slipyoke. you could slap on a YJ yoke and run that to eliminate the clunking but there are NO GUARANTEES that you won't have vibes to deal with.

Click to expand...

The drop kit will fix this right?

The drop kit is the start to fixing it. You may also need some shims. Or to really do it the best way you'd need a SYE. 75% chance you'll throw the drop kit on there and everything will be good to go.

I second to check for the shackle & pipe interference..., maybe also go back over those axle U bolts? I wouldn't think a 3+-lift would create a knock from a driveline that wasn't bad off beforehand.

Is it just one knock or a cyclical, repeating knock? If it is repeating, is it timed with the speed of the Jeep?

This is a 95 model, yes? 231 Tcase? Tranny?

Unless you know it's been addressed, it's never a bad time to service or replace the axle & driveshaft universal joints & straps... and have the shafts' balance checked.

The YJ yoke is a tad longer than the XJ 231 yoke (same lgth as 242) but has a more open cut to allow the shaft to cycle/droop w/o binding. Don't buy one from the $$dealer though like I did.

A SYE & CV shaft is probably best IMHO, but some pricier than a YJ yoke & shaft rehab. with axle shimming.

yes 95 model, 242Tcase, AW4 tranny. D35rear

The knock is cyclical with speed. There was no noise before. I have 4deg shims on.

The shackle is close to the pipe but that definately is not the knock.

OK then... no knock before- cyclical, speed related knock now. Hmmmm. Does it knock all the way to a halt? I'd think jackstand the rig on 4 corners and have a pal spin the wheels/driveshafts while I look for any obvious points of contact.

One way I check for mechanical interference is by painting suspect areas with typing correction fluid - "white-out" here in the states (it's faster drying than touch-up paint, nail polish, and more precice to apply than spraypaint) and then slowly cycle the components. The white-out will transfer & scar at an external confliction.

Hopefully a look at stuff under hand-speed rotation will point to the problem...

I would check the driveline for binding, driveshaft ears on slipyoke ears. If they are hitting you're going to break your u-joint. Takes all of five minutes. Block the front tires, jack the rear wheels off the ground, pop the tranny into neutral, and turn the drive shaft by hand. If the ears hit, you'll feel it. Mine did at 3 1/2" lift. If you jack the chassis and let the rear axle drop to the full droop of the N36L OME's, I'm sure you will find the shaft binding so badly you won't be able to turn it over by hand. Get a YJ yoke or do the $YE and shaft.

I don't get it. All the things your taken off and checking. Theres 4 bolts that hold the crossmember on. Just stick a jack under your tranny. Take the 4 bolts out. Lower the jack an inch. Stick your drop kit in. Put in your new bolts and call it done. (You should have new longer bolts). If you wanna get fancy throw some antiseize on them.

maybe im missing something...

put the jeep on jackstands take your wheels to the shop and then your done.



pull your rear driveshaft and drive it for a very short distance (you'll be leaking the fluid from your x-fer case) and see if it's gone...

I have a 3" RE lift in my 90. It came with no shims and no t-case lowering kit... and no vibes or clunks. Your kit came with shims which you installed (hopefully with the fat end facing the right way) and a t-case lowering kit which you didn't install. Your angles on your driveshaft are probably all messed up right now and will remain that way until the t-case drop corrects them and smooths things out. Remove the shims or install the t-case drop kit and you'll probably be fine. They need to go in together.