It begins: Project XLXJ

So my XJ project is beginning. I already have it up on jackstands in the garage and a lot of the pieces pulled.

First off, there are 2 reasons that I am doing this:

1.) Because I can.

2.) Because I want to.

With that, here is what is going to happen to it...

Axles

The front is a HP Ford Dana 60. I am upgrading it with aftermarket inner and outer knuckles to make it stronger. Gears will be 5.13s and the locker will be an ARB.

The rear axle is a 14-bolt FF. Gears are 5.13s with a Detroit locker. It will have line locks for cutting brakes. I am swapping in disk brakes.

Tires and Wheels

Wheels are custom 20" double beadlocks. Tires are 41" Michelin XLs.

Drivetrain

I am keeping the Jeep 4.0L engine. Behind it is going an NP435, and an Atlas II 4.3. I am in the process of designing and building a custom crawl box using the planetary set out of an NP241. That will go in between the NP435 and the Atlas when it is done (probably a year or so away). The emergency brake is going to be at the t-case (not at the rear brakes).

Frame and body

I am cutting off the "pseudo" frame rails and redoing them with 3.5" square box steel. The doors are already off. The roof is going to be chopped off and I am building an 8-point roll cage. The front and rear are going to be tubed out. I am going to re-use the front fenders, hood, and clip. The rear quarter panels are going to be kept and a custom backend/tailgate is going to be built. The gas tank will be raised 8". I am also doing a custom dash and center console.

Steering

Steering is going to be full hydro and behind the axle.

Suspension

The front is going to be a wishbone 3-link, and the rear is going to be a dual triangulated 4-link. I think that I am going to use the new Fox Airshox instead of coils and shocks (my original plan).


I am going to try and get some pics and details up on my site soon. I hope to have the majority of the "getting it running and moving" work done in about 4 months. The only parts that I am currently lacking are the Atlas, driveshafts, and front gears. Everything else I have. I am looking forward to finishing stripping down the vehicle and starting to build the new frame. This is going to be fun.

- Eliot -

Cool, lookin forward to another big project buildup.

I got my 14 bolt disc brackets from GreatLakesOffRoad, cost $50 plus shipping, laser cut 3/8" thick with bolts & spacers. Junkyard 3/4ton Chevy front discs/calipers mounted on 14B hubs.

Do you really need to upgrade knuckles on a DANA60???

5.13s will not be enough gear for 41s with the 6cyl. You'll want to go as low as possible which I think is 5.38s. I'm running 5.13s with my 38.5s and it isn't enough. Especially with the weight of 20" steel beadlocks & 41s.......

You're planning on an Atlas 4.3 (bulletproof) and adding an NP241, why do you need that will 5.whatever gears & 4.3 t-case?

What're you gonna run for a rear driveshaft with all that TRANS+TC+TC ??? And pinion angle with enough lift to clear 41s?

I wont even mention the airshox + weight + lift height + braking......

Sounds like a fairly well laid out plan, except for the above "grey" areas.

It'll be interesting to see this happen.

Where do you get 5.38 gears for a 14 Bolt? :eyes:

You can't get 5.38s for a 14-bolt.

The crawl box is for super low crawling. I do rocks most often, and so mainly I need to be able to go sl-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-w sometimes.

I am upgrading the knuckles on the 60 because I like to thrash my vehicle pretty hard, and full-hydro steering + 41" tires + the limits I like to push WILL lead to a destroyed outer knuckle. Also, the stock Ford inner knuckle is slightly anemic, so I am going ahead and upgrading that as well.

Drivelines are going to be 1350 CV-joints and 1410 u-joints at the axle from HighAngleDriveline.com.

I am going to be making the disc brake brackets for the 14-bolt myself. I am using 1-ton Ford front rotors and Corvetter 4-piston front calipers for me rear brakes. Probably same for the front and I will use an adjustable proportioning valve. Braking will not be a problem.

If the 6cyl doesn't have enough oomph to move the 41s, then I will probably stroke it to 4.5L.

I should also mention that I am going to stretch the wheelbase to 112".

Also, realize that the NP435, crawlbox, Atlas II combo is not any longer than the stock AX-15, slipyoke NP231 combo. Driveline angles will not be a problem.

Weight is probably going to be in the 4500-5000 lbs. range. about 1500 of that is going to be unsprung weight, so I should be fine on using the Airshox.

My overall width is going to be about 81", so even though I will have an effective 10" of lift, I don't think stability will be a problem.

This is going to be fun.

- Eliot -

nice!


is this elliot who showed up to winterfest last year?

Nope, I am in Austin, TX. I would like to make it to a event, though, to meet some fellow "grocery getter" drivers!

- eliot -

Beezil said:

nice!


is this elliot who showed up to winterfest last year?

Click to expand...

okay, got it.

make sure to post some pics.

progress pics are always neato.

Beez, you're thinking of Aaron, the guy with the nice blue XJ?

going 35 spline outers on the 60?

lot's of pics!! sounds cool

norton said:

I should also mention that I am going to stretch the wheelbase to 112".

Click to expand...

Even thoguh I'm afraid of the World MJ Preservation Society, I've got to point out that the shortbed MJ wheelbase is 113"...and I think this project would be a lot more interesting on an MJ. They already have tailgates and everything! This'll be fun to watch anyway.

AGREED! good call Phil

ah....that's it fore....."aaron elliot"....

thats right.

short-term memory once again.

norton said:

Frame and body

I am cutting off the "pseudo" frame rails and redoing them with 3.5" square box steel. The doors are already off. The roof is going to be chopped off and I am building an 8-point roll cage. The front and rear are going to be tubed out. I am going to re-use the front fenders, hood, and clip. The rear quarter panels are going to be kept and a custom backend/tailgate is going to be built. The gas tank will be raised 8". I am also doing a custom dash and center console.

- Eliot -

Click to expand...

Ok I have thought of this before also. I am wondering how you will attach the new frame rails to the body. I would think just welding a new heavy frame to some thin sheetmetal isn't gonna work. Are you gonna use some kind of cross braces that help keep the body connected to all the tubing and frame rails? I understand you will/can attach the roll cage to the new frame rails, but how will the body be attached securely?

norton said:

The front is a HP Ford Dana 60. I am upgrading it with aftermarket inner and outer knuckles to make it stronger. Gears will be 5.13s and the locker will be an ARB.

The rear axle is a 14-bolt FF. Gears are 5.13s with a Detroit locker. It will have line locks for cutting brakes. I am swapping in disk brakes.
- Eliot -

Click to expand...

Do you mean aftermarket inner and outer shafts? (knuckles?)
If you score a 78-79 f350 d60 then youll need the newer ford inner shafts then get the newer 80s+ 35 spliner inner shafts with no neckdown.

youll want the chevy 35 spline outers but with an ARB front your gonna get flanges not lockouts right?

Are you gonna just do the chevy outers on your ford axle? kunckle, hub, brakes and 35 spline stub shafts?

How well does a detroit ratchet when sending power to it and trying to cut the brakes..? Im wondering if it would only ratchet when your not sending power to it rolling down a hill...
Would you need an ARB in the rear to get good cutting brake ability from it with power applied?
Im thinking detroit on front with flanges, then run the ARB in back to get full cutting brake ability.. yea?

I am upgrading the knuckles (not the shafts) with Crane Inners and Dedenbear Outers. The steering arms are reversed 5-stud arms from OTT Industries. I am going 35 spline outers with drive flanges. I am also going with aftermarket spindles and hubs (Chevy size, but aftermarket).

Since the Atlas is twin stick, I will be able to put the rear output in neutral and use the line locks to lock one wheel and power around with the front. Detroits engage only under power, so because the rear axle isn't receiving power, it will be "open" and the non-braked rear wheel will simply roll as the front axle pulls the vehicle around.

- eliot -

ashmanjeepxj said:

Do you mean aftermarket inner and outer shafts? (knuckles?)
If you score a 78-79 f350 d60 then youll need the newer ford inner shafts then get the newer 80s+ 35 spliner inner shafts with no neckdown.

youll want the chevy 35 spline outers but with an ARB front your gonna get flanges not lockouts right?

Are you gonna just do the chevy outers on your ford axle? kunckle, hub, brakes and 35 spline stub shafts?

How well does a detroit ratchet when sending power to it and trying to cut the brakes..? Im wondering if it would only ratchet when your not sending power to it rolling down a hill...
Would you need an ARB in the rear to get good cutting brake ability from it with power applied?
Im thinking detroit on front with flanges, then run the ARB in back to get full cutting brake ability.. yea?

Click to expand...

norton said:

Since the Atlas is twin stick, I will be able to put the rear output in neutral and use the line locks to lock one wheel and power around with the front. Detroits engage only under power, so because the rear axle isn't receiving power, it will be "open" and the non-braked rear wheel will simply roll as the front axle pulls the vehicle around.
- eliot -

Click to expand...

Aaa yes, that will be cool.

Well being just down the road in SA, I'm gonna have to check this beast out some time. You ever come down to the Den?

Been there a few times. Haven't been to the super hard parts yet, but hopefully I'll be back on all four soon and will be able to check them out.

- Eliot -

yeah, you're right, i'm jea;ous as hell. good luck with the project, can't wait to see pics.....