What trans should I put in my heep?

Ok, I have an 89. I blew my engine at 230,000. I put in a 98 4.0 with new harness and ECU and TCU. It currently has an AW4 that isn't hooked up to the new computer because i haven't gotten that far yet. I just blew a nice whole in the transfercase the other day so i need one of those. I think its not worth my while to figure out how to control this old trans with the new TCU or figure out how to wire in the old one with it.

I have a line on a 98 aw-4 low mileage and a 98 t-case. I aslo have a line on a 96 ax-15 and 96 t-case to go with that one with a slightly higher mileage.

I like the idea of a manual trans. out of all the vehicles i've own and owned, this is the only automatic(right now). I realize i would have to swap a bunch of parts to make the ax-15 work. the auto would be easier but i would still need a different driveshaft because of the year difference. I also have about 4-5 inches of lift i need to consider. I might need to consider a sye because of the new style slip yoke. my older 242 had plenty of travel on the slip yoke so had no problems with the length.

I've been lurking here for a while... i know what you guys are capable of.... I need you input!

Thanks alot,

Donovan

I might as well jump in first with a vote for the AW4.

Thats kinda what i'm leaning towards. My only concern really right now is the different style t-case. i don't want to do a sye right now. though it may be the best time... Has anyone lifted a 98 5 inches with out one? I know most are case by case.

AX15 all the way but then again.... I'm a hopeless stick fanatic
In any case, I think that you will be looking at an SYE at that height no matter what you put in: aw4 or ax15.... but the upside of it is, that you can do it all before you put it in as you will have the tcase out and on the bench.

Kejtar, how much $ would i be looking at for a RE hack 'n tap and a cv drive shaft? could i get my current old style converted into a CV shaft?

Thanks alot guys

of the top of my head hack and tap with a spricer shaft woud run you about 350 ~ 400...

ok, thanks. Looks like i need to do some shopping now...

It all depends on what kind of wheeling you do. If you're a mud runner than the manual would be your best bet. If you rockcrawl than the AW4 is the winner.

I wheel with a buddy who has a Scout and it's manual, talk about a pain in the arse when in a precarious spot. He's constantly rolling back out of position or almost rolling over before he gets the clutch pushed in. It sucks being his spotter cause it's always "my" fault when he can't push 3 levers at once.

Automatics are the only way to fly in sticky situations, brake & gas is all you need to know.

i think you should put a t-18 in it. ill sell you mine that will bolt right in!

Norcalxj, I saw you tranny swap thread.... enough said.

Vintage, I do mostly mud and trails. This is mostly a daily driver and capable off roader. I think puting in a manual will cost alot more and not really be as benificial as to leaving it as an auto and upgrading everything.

vintagespeed said:

I wheel with a buddy who has a Scout and it's manual, talk about a pain in the arse when in a precarious spot. He's constantly rolling back out of position or almost rolling over before he gets the clutch pushed in. It sucks being his spotter cause it's always "my" fault when he can't push 3 levers at once.

Automatics are the only way to fly in sticky situations, brake & gas is all you need to know.

Click to expand...

I will agree that auto's are easier.... but I don't know about all that rolling back and so on.... I have been stopped at some pretty interesting angles and I didn't roll back when I moved forward. I had an interesting dance going on down at the pedal level and my ebrake was in use, but I wouldn't say that necessarily it was the fact that it was a stick at fault.

Getting back to the original question, overall, it will probably be easier to swap an auto in, but with your height and the newer drivetrain, you still might have to get an SYE....