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dana 30 upgrades

moneypitxj

NAXJA Member #565
Location
york, pa
i kinda screwed up. i put an arb in a dana 30 and left the stock splined axles. what are some options i can do to strengthen it up and like alloy axles and such? :doh: im in it for the long hual now.
 
the 30/30 kit IMHO is a waste of money.

I've NEVER seen, heard of or broken a D30 shaft at the splines, it's ALWAYS the u-joints that go, and the ears soon follow.

I've been running stock 297 type shafts with 760 joints in them, full circle clips and I have yet to break them w/ 36" TSLs on my 30. my only saving grace is that I'm not locked up front (hasn't stopped me yet, hafta pull cable or take a strap sometimes, but so what?)
 
CheapXJ said:
the 30/30 kit IMHO is a waste of money.

I've been running stock 297 type shafts with 760 joints in them, full circle clips and I have yet to break them w/ 36" TSLs on my 30. my only saving grace is that I'm not locked up front (hasn't stopped me yet, hafta pull cable or take a strap sometimes, but so what?)

I believe my '88 has the whimpy 260 joints. If I want to change over to the 297's or better yet, the 760's do I have to change both shafts first?
 
CheapXJ said:
the 30/30 kit IMHO is a waste of money.

I've NEVER seen, heard of or broken a D30 shaft at the splines, it's ALWAYS the u-joints that go, and the ears soon follow.

You need to wheel more!

30/30 is a great upgrade if you are going to do ARB and alloy axles anyhow.

Fisrt I would go full circle or weld 297 joints.
or
Second choice do some fake CTMs, 297 with bushings and full circle clips
or
Third sell the 27 spline stuff an go 30/30 kit w/CTMs.

Third option might invlove robbing a bank or two. :D

mark
 
I'm lucky i finally ditched the D30. I destroyed 2 gear sets this year, a detroit and about a dozen axle shafts (welded in 760s) with my 38.5 SXs. If you go over 35s with an agressive tire like a swamper the D30 is too weak, the housing bends, hubs and ball joints are going and it is no fun to wheel just a "What will break next?"
 
Don't you guys think the CTMs are sweet, but a waste of money? I mean, there has to be a weak link, and I think replacing 20-30 dollar Spicers is better than a few hundred on fawked axle shafts? I might be wrong, but I would rather have the u-joint blow, than the shafts.

By the way, I have heard Moser shafts are better than Superior shafts. I know a guy who sells them, and he said he has seen a number of the Superior's snap because they are too brittle.


Not trying to hijack, but I think it is relavent.
 
cherokee89 said:
Don't you guys think the CTMs are sweet, but a waste of money? I mean, there has to be a weak link, and I think replacing 20-30 dollar Spicers is better than a few hundred on fawked axle shafts? I might be wrong, but I would rather have the u-joint blow, than the shafts.

By the way, I have heard Moser shafts are better than Superior shafts. I know a guy who sells them, and he said he has seen a number of the Superior's snap because they are too brittle.


Not trying to hijack, but I think it is relavent.

Well it's been my experience that when the u-joint goes, it takes out the ears on the shaft as well. So, now you have to replace all. I'd get the beefier u-joints. I think I'll be trying these:

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
 
760...
picture.JPG

...and a 297...
picture.JPG

...both had their caps welded.

Jes
 
Wow! Nice pics. I am not a big time wheeler, because I can't afford to break my junk all the time, even though it always seems to be broken, anyway. I see your piont, and that sways my opinion the other way. Something I never thought about. Thanks.

I love this place!! :)
 
or something like this can happen if you need to move your rig at all with a broken shaft.......

Nice_u-joint--ball_joint2.jpg



Cherokee-Cruiser--Easy_does_it.jpg

............you too could get pushed around by a 1 ton Cruzah.....
 
Mark Hinkley said:
You need to wheel more!

30/30 is a great upgrade if you are going to do ARB and alloy axles anyhow.

Fisrt I would go full circle or weld 297 joints.
or
Second choice do some fake CTMs, 297 with bushings and full circle clips
or
Third sell the 27 spline stuff an go 30/30 kit w/CTMs.

Third option might invlove robbing a bank or two. :D

mark
funny... I run 36s on a 30 now, ran 33's before, broke a couple of 260 shafts (at the u-joints) and broke two 297s, have yet to break the 760s (but they only have 3 wheelin trips on 'em)


I lied tho, I have seen d30 shafts broken somewhere other than the u-joint, but these were not wheelin-related... these were frontal-offset crash related, axle tube breaks off, half the axle goes with it. other than that, nothin other that u-joints/yokes broken.
 
I've seen plenty of stock D30 shafts break at the splines, even though the u-joint/yoke ears usually go first. Chromo axles are a good investment without CTM's because a broken u-joint normally won't damage the yokes if it's not driven on. Plus, the yokes are much stronger and don't deform so the u-joints will take more abuse. CTM's are worth the money if you don't like to break, and are way cheaper than mutliple replacement axles. If you've been on the trail when someone breaks a knuckle after breaking an axle u-joint, you'll go for the strongest stuff you can afford.

I also think the 30 spline kit is a great way to go if you're building an axle. You would buy a locker and stronger axles anyway, so might as well have 30 splines.
 
But you won't get stronger gears, as i posted before, i destroyed 2 sets of Spicer 4.56 in my front D 30 this year. This was why i finally decided to ditch the 30 and go 60/70
 
Cheap,

Funny? What is funny? So you're saying because you wheel it there shouldn't be any options out there for people? Not sure if that is what you mean, maybe you could clarify?

As I said 30/30 is a great option for people who are thinking of building their 30 up. Not everyone wants to change axle housings.

BTW FYI the 5-760=297x with different seals, so what's the point there?
 
i'm with beezil. mine is in the bed of the truck! and its passenger drop! :)
 
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