You pretty much have it but here some tips
1) Remove the electric fan and make sure you don't lose the sheet metal nuts.
2) When removing the mechanical fan you will have to lift the fan and the shroud out together, no way to lift out the shroud seperately. Same note on the metal nuts.
3) Loosen the bolts holding the pulley to the water pump. It is MUCH easier if you beak torque BEFORE you remove the fan belt.
4) Figure out what 4 bolts on the power steering pump you have to loosen before you can loosen the belt. The power steering pump is the tensioner.
5) If not much more work to change the radiator since you will have the cooling system drained. You just remove the panel covering the radiator, remove the nuts holding the AC condensor to the radiator, remove radiator hoses, disconnect the temp sensor in the driver's side tank, remove the trans lines, then lift out. To remove the trans lines you will need to press those plastic ears against the tube and pull. Pretty simple once you figure out how the retainer works. There have been several posts about GDI 3 core radiators. They issued a new Part number due to quality issues. I think my next radiator will be a Modine 2 core. Both the modine and the GDI are 1.5 inches thick. You decide on the brand.
6) Check the bearins on the accessories to see if they spin freely. I hightly recommend you replace the idle pulley next to the AC compressor - it is a $10 part - while you have it apart. You may also want to check the mechanical fan bearing. If it is rough then you will need a new AC compressor bracket from the dealer, the bearing is NOT sold seperate.
7) I recommend you go to your local dealer and buy your water pump gasket from them. It a very nice gasket, has the silicon already applied, and fits right. I installed mine with no additional sealant and have had no leaks. It costs less than $5.
8) Buy a new 195F thermostat at the dealer when getting the water pump gasket. It is less than $10 and comes with a gasket. Everyone on here will tell you to get your thermostat at the dealer.
9) Radiator hoses, buy a brand you trust. Install new hose clamps while you are at it.
10) Heater hoses, if you stay with the stock set up then buy the heater hoses at the dealer. The aftermarket ones are close but not right. Figure $70 for all 6 sections of hose. New hose clamps also. I got mine at the hardware store not the auto parts store. I think the Ideal brand clamp is better than the no name import and the Ideal cost less!
11) Pressure tank, you can buy one from
www.quadratec.com for $20, one at the dealer for $45 or go with the moroso tank for $75-$100. You will have to do some fab work to use the moroso tank. The plastic tank comes with the "radiator cap".
12) Heater core, cut the old hoses off the heater core, do not pull them off, you can crack it. Here is a good write up
http://www.olypen.com/craigh/heater.htm
13) Refilling with coolant, use the brand of coolant you like but use distilled water instead of tap water when you mix. Here another article on filling the engine with coolant
http://www.olypen.com/craigh/cooling.htm
14) I would stay with the stock cooling set up. If you go with the later set up you will have to figure out how to make the fan sensor work since there is no fitting for it in the post 1990 radiator.
15) Waterpump, I went with a new pump over a rebuild. I got mine from
www.hescosc.com but if not them then a new one from NAPA, carquest or the dealer. I have had too many buddies have problems with rebuild pumps with lifetime warranties. Mine time is worth something!
16) Fan clutch, while you have it apart install a new fan clutch. There is no known good way to test one. Take your old one into the parts store and buy one that looks IDENTICAL to the one you removed. The universals like from imperial are too tall to install without moving the radiator.
17) Fan belt, install a new fan belt of a brand you trust. Napa sells a tention gauge called the Kricket II, I posted the info on it in the past month. A new belt requires 180-200 lbs, while a used belt is 140-160 lbs.
