New steering ideas questions....

Trust me, I have searched and read a ton, so my question is pretty specific.
I am looking to run a set up a lot like this one on JnJs rig.

However, I was planning on using dodge TREs since they are the stock taper and I wouldnt have to ream out the knuckles. JnJs set up uses chevy ends and the one on the passenger side has a hole in it to accept the end of the drag link. Using those ends would require reaming out the knuckles and I would prefer not to have to do that if possible.
So my question is how can I connect the drag link to the tie rod in this set up without having the chevy ends? Could I use a joint other tahn a TRE at that joint? I cant use heims as I live in MN and drive this daily, so the salt will eat them alive....
ANy ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.
josh
PS- ON a side note, does anyone know if the TREs that JnJ is using (from this website: http://www.vintagebronco.com/newberry/pages/tech/tre/tre2.html ) are tehy any more beefy than the dodge ones I was reffering to?

i have no answers, only questions. in fact, the same question, although i've been looking to purchase a "system" in the intrest of saving time, i could acomplish the same thing if i could find the components. (specifically, stock size ends, and a way to attach the drag link to the TR.)

http://www.xjworld.4wdriver.com/steering.htm


I'm pretty much going to do the same thing, but make my own custom drag link bracket using the tubing and an extra insert with some 3/4-16 threaded rod.

thanks chuck...just what I was looking for.

MORE is having a Christmas sale, everything looks good as far as inserts and hiems. You may be able to find a better price onthe Tubing locally.

Ya thanks chuck, but is there any way to do it without using a heim like this?

I like teh little tab idea, but how could I do it without using a heim? Seriously. the MN salt would eat it for lunch! I was planning on doing the exact same thing without teh bend in the drag link. Could someone explain that to me? The article says this "The top of the drag link has a 12 degree bend in it that allows for more travel in the TRE. If it wasn't for this bend then when the passenger's side of the axle drooped the TRE would bind in the pitman arm causing unnecessary stress."
Is this bend completely necessary? I understand why, but is it enough to be an issue?
Also, would you have moved it 4" over like says in the article? Wouldnt it be better to just put that drag link tab right in front of teh track bar bolt? That would get it closer to parallel wouldnt it? At least it would in my head.....HELP!

EDIT: Is it better to go with threaded tube inserts and weld htem in, or is it stronger to just get the DOM threaded R and L hand? Just curious.....would my metal shop do taht for me?

Josh,

Tristan built steering like the one in your first post. He didn't ream the knuckles though because his 44 was already the right taper.

I don't see why you can't use a TRE instead of a heim at the tie rod end of the draglink. You'll have to taper the mounting tab though. Also, the higher up off the tie rod you go the more your drag link will want to twist the tie rod before pushing/pulling it. Also, the higher up you go, the less parallel your trac bar is going to be.

Why don't you want to ream the knuckles? I plan on doing this same set up and just reaming the knuckles. I like the drag link attaching to the center of the one TRE.

I'd just buy weld in inserts for the links. Spidertrax sells the 3/4"-16 ones and I think Tristan had to go to Poison Spyder for the larger ones. I haven't talked to anyone who has had a problem with them and there's a bunch of us running them now.

ZPD should jump in to this. We chatted last night about it.

I'm using a hiem, like Zion, no salt in Fresno. But I plan on using two pieces of 1/4" and making my DL/TR braket a double shear with the hiem in the center. This would also put the hiem directly over the TR to help keep the rotation of the TR to a minimum.

If you were going to use a TRE, wouldn't you have to ream the braket to the correct tapper. I think thats why Zion used a hiem instead.

Incredible Hulk said:

Ya thanks chuck, but is there any way to do it without using a heim like this?

I like teh little tab idea, but how could I do it without using a heim? Seriously. the MN salt would eat it for lunch! I was planning on doing the exact same thing without teh bend in the drag link. Could someone explain that to me? The article says this "The top of the drag link has a 12 degree bend in it that allows for more travel in the TRE. If it wasn't for this bend then when the passenger's side of the axle drooped the TRE would bind in the pitman arm causing unnecessary stress."
Is this bend completely necessary? I understand why, but is it enough to be an issue?
Also, would you have moved it 4" over like says in the article? Wouldnt it be better to just put that drag link tab right in front of teh track bar bolt? That would get it closer to parallel wouldnt it? At least it would in my head.....HELP!

EDIT: Is it better to go with threaded tube inserts and weld htem in, or is it stronger to just get the DOM threaded R and L hand? Just curious.....would my metal shop do taht for me?

Click to expand...

I didnt want to ream the knuckles because I wanted to keep my stock steering as trail spares, so I am looking to do this without having to do that. If I did ream them I would have to buy a full set of extra TREs to have as spares, and if I bent the tie rod of drag link I would be screwed! I am not completely unwilling to, jsut exploring the options.
Here is a new question....I dont suppose anyone knows the taper of teh chevy ends that JnJ used vs the taper of a stock d30 knuckle end? Wouldnt that just be slick if they were the same? I am sure tehy arent......but still curious.

Well, I'm making mine a little different than ZPD's.


My TR would be 2 pieces. One would be the Drivers side with two female inserts. The other on the passenger side will be with one end with a female insert and the other end with threaded 3/4-16 rod welded to it. The passenger side would have the drag link bracket on it.

This way you can adjust your toe really easy and make an easy spare.

ChuckD said:

Well, I'm making mine a little different than ZPD's.


My TR would be 2 pieces. One would be the Drivers side with two female inserts. The other on the passenger side will be with one end with a female insert and the other end with threaded 3/4-16 rod welded to it. The passenger side would have the drag link bracket on it.

This way you can adjust your toe really easy and make an easy spare.

Click to expand...

I too, had considered this.